Break in ?

The oil added to the tank on your new sled is there as a backup, to the oil pump. New sleds can have a little air in the pump or lines that may need to be purged out from use. I would check to see that your oil tank has gone down at least 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. If it has, I would go ahead and top the tank. At 100 miles, I wouldn't be afraid of short full throttle bursts. I just wouldn't hammer on it continuously until 250-300 miles (JMHO). Hope this helps!

X2, fill it and ride.

Who really knows what the absolute and correct way to break in a 2 stroke sled motor is? There is all kinds of reading you can find on the subject by "experts" and it's across the board. Your sled should be run tested by your shop when it was put together from shipping as both a test and a track adjustment procedure.

You can do any one of several break in techniques but here is what I've done on many many engines from recreational to racing.

I like completely heat soak a motor at least three times prior to ever riding the sled. This will also insure that you get your cooling system burped and is functional. Then I trail ride it for just a few miles watching temps and feeling the variations of performance or RPM's for what is expected. Stop often to check out for leaks or visable problems...keep busy on the throttle and no full out for more then a few seconds. Pretty much trying to work through all ranges of RPM for minimal times while we insure there is no visable problems like leaks, excessive heat, or really poor performance. Good idea to have flashlight so you can see under the engine. Also like to pull plugs and read them. Once you're satisfied that the thing is assembled and setup correctly I like to get very aggressive with it. None of my motors ever got more then a few miles of variable range break in prior to full out no hold bars riding. That is the experience on at minimum of 10 engines or rebuilt engines.

Once again...first we are making sure there isn't a mechanical issue prior to a long run that could become catastrophic...getting certain all things are working correctly. You should have a good heat soaked motor that the swelling has been worked through. Your rings should have been seated. You should have tested through the RPM ranges for issues and if all things are right my experience is then HAUL the mail and your engine will run great for many many miles.

X2 on F-bomb.

I rode mine for about 8 miles before I opened her up. Made sure things worked as advertised, and let her rip, just not long pulls. Dont chop the throttle, let off easy, making sure fuel is still spraying as the rpms come down.

If you want to be extra careful, fill her up, and add oil appropriate to the amount of fuel. you know, like the old 2-stroke days.

alittle off topic but how much oil in the first tank per polaris?

827revdog said:

alittle off topic but how much oil in the first tank per polaris?

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Polaris wants one pint of oil for each 5 gals of fuel for new break in.

New engine.

Make sure there is no air in oil lines.

Use no oil in the tank, to much oil doesn't let rings set in, theres a short time for this to happen, once the cross hatch is gone the rings arn't going to set in as well.

Use mineral oil, synthetic does not let rings set in.

Do what f-bomb says.

After 50 miles on the sled, beat the daylights out of it. ( with synthetic)

If your worried, wait till 100 miles till you hold it wot for 20 seconds.

I don't have the luxury of breaking in a engine in the snow, I do it on the stand, I have 19 miles on it on the stand, on the 14th it will be on the dyno for tuning.

Its got 10 heat cycles in it, from room temp to 150, to tottaly cold, do it again. I have no idea but it just makes me feel good to heat cycle the bearings and pistons.

Done all my new engines and rebuilds this way, no premature bearing failures, no scuffing of pistons, or problems with the nickasel.