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XP Post Forward Mod

B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
We have built brackets to relocate the steering post 3" forward. This allows you to reduce the angle between the riser and the steering post, but allows you to keep the handle bars in the same position. Reducing this angle makes steering and sidehilling easier because the axis of rotation goes through the handle bars instead of some point behind them (stock configuration).

For illustration purposes, picture adjusting the riser so the bars would be as far forward as possible... right against the windshield. Now, in order to turn, you would have to 'swing' the bars in the direction you want to turn. (if the windshield wasn't in the way). This setup is good when you are leaning into the turn, but it makes counter steering and sidehilling difficult because you are swinging the bars in the opposite direction that you are leaning.

This kit allows a more neutral angle of the riser. The XRS sleds have taken a similar approach with a modification to the front member that moves the post about 2".

It won't clear the stock upper airbox, so an aftermarket one is required.

 
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So it looks like you guys agree with the dealer adjusted handle bar position...which was usually straight up and down. You will loose the tip away you are describing with your setup but the machine will still handle like chit.
If you set these machines up properly(IMHO) with the riser straight (inline) with the steering post and roll the bars for comfort it forces you to ride further back on the chassis while side hilling, climbing or playing in the trees. This position distributes the weight front and back on the machine, providing excellent balance and handling. These sleds are already a little too rider forward IMO. Good luck moving it forward some more.
 
B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
So it looks like you guys agree with the dealer adjusted handle bar position...which was usually straight up and down. You will loose the tip away you are describing with your setup but the machine will still handle like chit.
If you set these machines up properly(IMHO) with the riser straight (inline) with the steering post and roll the bars for comfort it forces you to ride further back on the chassis while side hilling, climbing or playing in the trees. This position distributes the weight front and back on the machine, providing excellent balance and handling. These sleds are already a little too rider forward IMO. Good luck moving it forward some more.

We don't want the bars straight up and down, we want them inline as you described... which is what moving the post forward does. It still allows you put your weight further back on the sled, but doesn't force you to change your rider position.... It lets the rider determine where the weight should be. You don't want to be forced further back on the machine in all situations.

With the exception of the stock airbox, the kits fits into place nicely.
 

roughriders

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jan 9, 2008
123
18
18
Is there another bracker thats goes on the other end of the column to change the angle of the post? Does the steering post now go in front of the crossmember between the two shock towers or does it stay behind it?
 
S

skidoo_guy

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,280
112
63
Bismarck, ND
So it looks like you guys agree with the dealer adjusted handle bar position...which was usually straight up and down. You will loose the tip away you are describing with your setup but the machine will still handle like chit.
If you set these machines up properly(IMHO) with the riser straight (inline) with the steering post and roll the bars for comfort it forces you to ride further back on the chassis while side hilling, climbing or playing in the trees. This position distributes the weight front and back on the machine, providing excellent balance and handling. These sleds are already a little too rider forward IMO. Good luck moving it forward some more.

I am with you. This kit IMHO is doing exactly opposite of what I want to do. I actually bought a longer riser and tipped the whole riser back so I get back farther on the running boards to hopefully have it handle better. I noticed last year when I was carving with the riser straight up and down it was kind of hard to hold the carve (weight forward on the sled) and when I was sitting on the seat (weight rear on the sled) it was a piece of cake to carve and hold.
 

roughriders

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jan 9, 2008
123
18
18
I agree with the bars in line with the way the steering post is now is best for carving in pow. But for climbing i like being alot more forward, also pownding the trail i found it was smoothest the farther forward i could get. alot of rider prefrence i think. rider weight plays a big part i believe in each setup. just my 2 cents , i think it will work well for me can't wait to try it or eve just ride!!
 
B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
This kit isn't necessarily for everyone. It works well for aggressive riders for things like hill climbing and jumping... it is similar to what ski-doo has done on the XRS sleds, and gives people who don't have the XRS the option to mimic it without having to replace the entire front member.
 
B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
Is there another bracker thats goes on the other end of the column to change the angle of the post? Does the steering post now go in front of the crossmember between the two shock towers or does it stay behind it?

The steering post is still behind the front crossmember. As on the XRS models, there aren't any brackets required on the other end of the post.
 

summitking

Member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
315
21
18
Lumby
Do you have any pictures of the stock cowling and how much it would have to be trimmed? Do you guys offer just a air box similar to the race air box?
whats a relocation kit worth and whats the pod worth?
thanks
 
B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
Do you have any pictures of the stock cowling and how much it would have to be trimmed? Do you guys offer just a air box similar to the race air box?
whats a relocation kit worth and whats the pod worth?
thanks

We currently don't have an upper air box besides our dash/console with the built in airbox. With a straight steering post and a slight modification to the stock airbox with a heat gun, it would all fit together.

We are looking into building these as well.
 
A

Adrenalin

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2008
239
76
28
45
Los Anchorage, AK
We currently don't have an upper air box besides our dash/console with the built in airbox. With a straight steering post and a slight modification to the stock airbox with a heat gun, it would all fit together.

We are looking into building these as well.

bump just curious how the "kit" is coming along ?

im interested in this mod but at the cost of 2gs worth of carbon is kinda a turn off :(
 
B
Jan 22, 2009
63
11
8
bump just curious how the "kit" is coming along ?

im interested in this mod but at the cost of 2gs worth of carbon is kinda a turn off :(

These kits are available now. We made some small changes that cut down on machine time, so the price is now $89.00

We are revamping our online store... so they aren't there yet, but feel free to pm me, or call me and we can get you a set.

The carbon fiber is not a requirement for this kit, but we made the carbon pieces with this in mind so less modification is required.
 
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