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Pro 858 bog or cylinder cut out?

K
Sep 13, 2008
36
1
8
I got a 2013 800 pro with a 858 big bore. when I hold it wot it pulls hard at 8250-8300 for 5-8 seconds and then dies to about 67-6800 and stays there until I let off the throttle for a half a second and nail it again and it pull right back at 8250.
The build only has about 100 miles. New reeds and a boondocker box. Any ideas would be much appreciated.Thanks
 

Merlin

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Oct 7, 2004
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Medicine Hat, AB
It could be many things but the fact that the RPMs drops off to the 6500 + range suggests that it may be the exhaust valves closing prematurely.

Just a thought......




I got a 2013 800 pro with a 858 big bore. when I hold it wot it pulls hard at 8250-8300 for 5-8 seconds and then dies to about 67-6800 and stays there until I let off the throttle for a half a second and nail it again and it pull right back at 8250.
The build only has about 100 miles. New reeds and a boondocker box. Any ideas would be much appreciated.Thanks
 

diamonddave

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Apr 5, 2006
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Wokeville, WA.
What altitude are you experiencing this at?

To answer your question as to why....cylinder pressures may have changed with the big bore which may require some different exhaust valve springs, etc.

Make sure the gaskets aren't partially blocking the port in the cylinder and housing. Some gaskets require trimming as they will block and restrict flow.

Make sure you have a new fuel filter also.
 
K
Sep 13, 2008
36
1
8
Thanks. Im at 3300 ft right now. All springs and gaskets are good and installed as per big bore manufacturers recommendations.
I dont understand why the valves would change when they are operating fine off and on throttle and when wot. Then change when still running wot after a few seconds?
It is a new fuel filter, new 100LL as which the head was designed for.
New clutch,with proper weights for elevations of 5000- 8000 ft, but doesent seem like a shifting prob as it is in full shift out already. TPS was adjusted 100k? ago.
Engine temps of 105-11f.
Snow loads are the same
It just seems that it is dropping a cylinder after 5-8 seconds of wot and as soon as I let off the throttle and stab it again it pulls hard to 8250-8300 for another 5-8-10 secs.
 

IQ?

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Nov 28, 2007
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Do you have the ves schims?
Think what they do with spriing preassure.
Cut the valves for clearence instead
Test to jam em fully open-you loose midrange an
But you will see what i mean/
Edvard
 

wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
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Clarkston WA
s375.photobucket.com
I got a 2013 800 pro with a 858 big bore. when I hold it wot it pulls hard at 8250-8300 for 5-8 seconds and then dies to about 67-6800 and stays there until I let off the throttle for a half a second and nail it again and it pull right back at 8250.
The build only has about 100 miles. New reeds and a boondocker box. Any ideas would be much appreciated.Thanks


Not to hjjack, but my sled is a 12 with a 14 motor and all the components, electrical, harness clutchs etc. and I just bought it last summer start and move around the yard regularly to mow and move stuff etc. we got pretty descent snow and took it for a coupel rips around the yard and it does the same thing your sled does and motor is stock. figured it was fuel so removed tank and poored all the fuel out and put new good nonethanol fuel in and still does it down here about 750ft elevation, was told it could be elevation sensitive didn't believe that with a injected sled. so took it out for a ride around 3k ft and does the same thing, you squeeze full throttle is responsive as you see the tack hit 8000 - 8150 then bogs as your still in throttle and you see the tack like instantly drop to 6600 get out of the throttle and back into it and will do it again, seems pretty close to full throttle 3/4 and under don't feel it. I bought this sled as I was told ran Perfect and not to impressed cant get any info unless I pay for shop rate diagnosis doesn't seem right.

Thanks, wildcard
 
K
Sep 13, 2008
36
1
8
Sounds like you got the same prob. wildcard.
So heres an update. I cleaned and inspected the exhaust valves, Checked the valve solenoid, re adjusted the TPS, cleaned the plug caps an took er for a rip. Same problem.
Only this time it pulled real hard to 8250 for about 8-10 seconds and then dropped to 6700.I held the throttle wfo and it pulled at 6700 for about five seconds and then kicked in and pulled back up to 8250. WTF??? I never held it to the bars before when it was pullin 6700 so don't know if it woulda pulled back up to 8250 or if this is new? Same snow conditions, flat field and I tried it at least a half a dozen times and same exact thing every time.
I'm at a loss. Please I need help!
 

wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
1,477
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Clarkston WA
s375.photobucket.com
at a loss myself also, I got the sled in the shop today and was also in process of cleaning the exhaust valves, the front of the bulkhead was soaked black oil and inside of Ypipe was pretty wet also, cleaned the bulkhead and as I took the magside powervalve out it was pretty much full of the same oil, seem a bit much the pto side had oil in it also but not near as much, maybe is was just built up from ideling in the truck as I unloaded it and drove it on the steerable dollies into the shop. was weird also not sure if that's a prob but maybe the oiler is cranked up to much.

Think I'm gonna change the primary spring to an almond red that will let the motor rev quick but not over rev. have been hearing that maybe engine is hitting the rev limiter but the guage panel isn't reading it that fast, I have seen the tack hit 8300 couple quick times and hear the limiter is around 8500. I haven't had pulls on the throttle for an extended time I seem to let off when I feel the bog or see the tach drop to 6600, buddy who is really good at clutching suggests I change primary spring or add weight to the clutch so it will load the motor more and maybe prevent possible over rev he doesn't think the motor is getting loaded sufficiently. Gonna eventually buy a set of Dalton adjustable weight also so you don't have to remove the weights to add or remove weight . this is what I liked about the clicker setup on the skidoo so much.

I did notice my sled has what looks like a brandnew throttle position sensore like the newest lookin part under the hood seem previous owner probably chasing the same prob who knows.

How do you adjust the Position sensor and the oil pump adjustment correctly?

Hope you get to the bottom of your problem also..

Wildcard
 
Last edited:
K
Sep 13, 2008
36
1
8
Ya both my valves were quite oily also. Made no difference when cleaned. I'm starting to think clutchin also. Rev to quick, but not pullin full rpm. I need to be at 84-8450 for the big bore on the flats at my elevation at home , to pull the r's at elevation.
Gotta figure the clutch so it doesn't rev quite as quick, but will give me my top end revs.
Good luck with yours and keep me posted if ya get er figured.
 
K
Sep 13, 2008
36
1
8
Thanks. I went back to my ****ty notes and my even worse memory bank and i remember the last ride at elevation it ran good, just not pullin rpm, so when I got home I pulled a couple grams out. Then I wrecked my elbow and havent rode it in nearly two years! Still didnt have the fuel numbers completed. Now I'm thinking its clutchin also. The heel is loaded as heavy as possible. I loaded just over a gram an a half more in the centre. Waitin t get out fer a rip.
I'm keepin way better notes now.
 

kgra

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Feb 2, 2011
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British Columbia
Sounds like mild det. Check fuel filters or pressure at wot should be 58-60psi. Make sure spark plugs are tight, det can make them loosen. Try adding fuel at 8000rpm and up on the big bore.
 
R

roni87

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2011
513
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I Falls, MN
I had a squished fuel injector o ring on my rev 1 kit a while back that would do this. Must have got it snagged upon reinstall. It was the bushing one that the injector seats against.
 
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