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Old 12-12-2017, 12:37 AM
TimG TimG is offline
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Default Weird reverse problem

I've done a bunch of searching on this but couldn't find anything quite like the problem I'm having.

The sled is a 2007 dragon 700 RMK, and when I press the reverse button, the reverse light on the dash lights up, but nothing else happens. It doesn't die or try to restart or anything. It just keeps running normally. I took the button apart and everything is fine there. I tried grounding the grey wire that goes to the button (that's what pushing the button does; I thought the ground might be bad), no change.

I checked the resistance on the crank position sensors; both are within spec. I also checked the clearance on the crank position sensors- both were 0.030", which I believe is right. Any other thoughts?
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:20 AM
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What rpm is it idling at? I have seen them not go into reverse if the idle is to high but you will get the light on the display.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:33 AM
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Maybe a pin connection problem on #31 at the ECU connector?
Did reverse ever work for you on the sled?
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:46 AM
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Yes, reverse worked fine up until a few days ago. I had a recoil rope break and I thought it might have messed with one of the crank position sensors, but they look good, have the proper clearance, an ohm out well. I'll check that ecu pin though.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:10 PM
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Checked the ecu pin, and tonight I calibrated the TPS. It was a bit rich (.723) but not crazy or anything. Anyways, now it's spot on at .700. Idle is about 1900. Don't know what else to do other than trying a stator or ECU. Had a Polaris mechanic tell me that it is possible for a crank position sensor to ohm out good, but still be bad. He also said that if the 5 tooth crank position sensor was bad, the sled would run like crap, but it runs real good. And if the 2 tooth crank position sensor was bad, it wouldn't start.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Last edited by TimG; 12-13-2017 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:34 AM
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Not sure why the light is coming on, but not reverse. BUT...by chance have you tested the throttle cable tension?
If that throttle safety switch is not pushed in, it won't go into reverse.

Under normal usage, if you touch the throttle until you have tension (but not squeeze it) and you can just get a drivers lic or credit card in the gap, the throttle tension is about perfect.
Do you know which gap I'm referring to?
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Last edited by Scott; 12-14-2017 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 12-15-2017, 03:13 AM
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Yes, I know exactly what you're talking about. I did check the tension, and adjusted it a bit, without any effect. It looks like a stator problem now though. When I ohmed the brown/white stator wire to ground, it's supposed to be 0 ohms, and it's infinite on the meter. It's also infinite when I ohm it to the engine. So something isn't right in there for sure. The other resistance readings from that plug are also off by more than 15%, which is the tolerance. So it looks like a bad stator at this point.
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Old 12-27-2017, 02:56 PM
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Not sure if you have fixed the issue but I just wanted to share this with you since I recently had a problem that may be the part effecting yours . The headlights went out on my kids 08 Dragon 700. I replaced the entire handlebar control switch ( part number 2010370 ) . It fixed the problem . I also found out it is a common issue with these control boxes going bad and only 1 feature will be effected usually if it does. So possibly it is not actually telling it to go into reverse . Just a thought 🤔 and something to investigate. If you try to take it apart be very careful . There are tiny springs and ball bearings that will jump out and never be found . ( current issue I’m now dealing with since I took the bad switch apart...🙄lol )
They are on EBay and Amazon for $67 . Just look up that part number in the search box.
2010370
double check that one is the right control switch for yours .
Good luck
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:15 PM
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Update: in the end, it was a spun 5 tooth flywheel tone ring. It is glued on I believe. The recoil rope had broken on me prior to the reverse going out, and it moved the tone ring out of position. I put it back in place (had to find another flywheel to figure out where the tone ring was supposed to be), and it worked great afterwards. I think I need to take it apart again and JB weld it in place though, cause it didn’t seem overly tight when I put it back on.
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