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Old 02-09-2018, 05:56 PM
swovay696 swovay696 is offline
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Default 13 800 Xm dead spot

13 800 Xm. Sled has had a weird miss between 7000-8000 rpm. Nothing horable. Then it started getting worse, and at certain times it would drop down to 7000 rpm, while you have it pinched, and it would stay there as long as as you hold the throttle. Also sounds like it's running on one cylinder when this happens. the last time I rode it, it died as if it blew up, or locked up. Started back up kinda hard, but would run awesome, and have the symptoms, so I limped it to a bar 5 miles away and trailered it. Same symptoms my buddy kinda had on his 14, and his stator was bad. So I put a $100 spi stator, and new plugs in it. Still does it. No codes. Bought it as a holdover, and the dealer said all updates were done. Could it be possible the ecm isn't updated and causing this? Any other ideas? Sled has 1600 miles. Please help. Thanks

Ps I just put a new battery in before I checked for codes, but before I just test ran it. Is it possible that it wouldn't be showing codes right away Even though it's showing symptoms? Sorry for being long winded
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:23 PM
swovay696 swovay696 is offline
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Mag side scored. Leek down test held with no drop. I'm stumped. Trying to post pics. Want to know what caused this
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Old 02-10-2018, 08:42 PM
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Both injectors ohm at 2.8. Top of piston is perfect. Just the sides. My main concern is I don't want rebuild it just to have it blow again. The fact that it ran so goofy, and then would run awesome, has me stumped. Compression was at 40 psi, and like 120 or something. There was a small chunk of plastic about 3/8 by 1/4 inch floating around in the reeds. Could of it wedged a reed open at one point, causing it to run lean? That still didn't explain the the way it was running. It ran the same after I removed it. It was a piece of plastic when.I bumped a tree, and cracked some plastic. I feel like I'm talking to myself here. Just throwing out everything I can think of. Big jon, or some other sled guru???? Don't be shy
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:00 AM
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What's your warm up procedure?
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:43 AM
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Default X2

Top of piston looks relatively good. You squeaked 'er. Warm sled up until the heat exchanger is warm to touch! Even once you've been riding and have stopped for a beer or two. Rebuild, warm up properly, ride and repeat.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:50 PM
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I always let it idle till at least "warming up" goes away. And it's not like I'm sitting at the bottom of a hill, waiting for that exact moment, and then hold her to the bars. It does look like a cold seize, but I can't believe that's what caused it. And the other side is perfect. I have a cylinder piston, and gaskets coming. Since I heard I have to take it in to get the oil pump bled, I'll just put it back together, and get a hold of big john. I've never talked to the guy, but he only lived an hour away. At least I know it will be right
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swovay696 View Post
I always let it idle till at least "warming up" goes away. And it's not like I'm sitting at the bottom of a hill, waiting for that exact moment, and then hold her to the bars. It does look like a cold seize, but I can't believe that's what caused it. And the other side is perfect. I have a cylinder piston, and gaskets coming. Since I heard I have to take it in to get the oil pump bled, I'll just put it back together, and get a hold of big john. I've never talked to the guy, but he only lived an hour away. At least I know it will be right
One piston?

You'll want the ecu put back in break in mode for that fresh top end. Also check ecu for stored codes, latest updates, and clear codes.

SHR is a solid shop, I highly recommend them.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:25 PM
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Both piston are getting replaced
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:50 PM
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drain the fuel as best you can, throw a half a bottle of red iso in the tank with fresh fuel. Replace the fuel filter.


inspect the fuel pressure regulator in the tank to make sure it is not coming out of the housing. There will be an orange or green O-ring around the regulator. 2 ways to do this. Remove tank, then the fuel pump which takes a special tool or a fiber optic camera to look inside the tank. Then check the fuel pressure. If you do not have the tools, we can do this after you get it together. Do not put oil in the gas. It will be Ok to load on a trailer after you get it together. We can also have the ECU checked for codes and put back in break-in.


Ski Doo has update screws for this. They had an issue with some of the 15's losing fuel pressure. We have seen a couple 14's with this. I do not remember if we had any 13's. With a "mystery" burn down on an XM these are the places we go to first.

Last edited by FEZ; 02-16-2018 at 09:03 PM.
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