For support please email or pm Christopher christopher@snowestonline.com



Upgrade to Premium
Arctic Cat: M Series 2005-Current, all models in the M-series chassis
Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-14-2018, 04:01 PM
CallMeAl CallMeAl is offline
Currently: Not set.
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Bozeman, MT
Basic Member
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
CallMeAl is an unknown quantity at this point
Default 2007 M6- No Power to Fuel Pump, ECU?

Hey all- long time lurker, first time poster here.

I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my wife's 2007 M6 isn't getting fuel. I recently bought this sled as-is (not running) from a friend who didn't feel like messing with it.

After a few days of screwing around, here's what I've discovered:

I have power from the stator (new, installed by me) to the ECU (orange wires). I found this to be true at the connection closest to the stator, as well as at the ECU connection.

I do not have power from the ECU to the fuel pump (black/red wires). I tested the wires very close to the ECU connection, and also at the pump itself. Nada.

When I apply power directly to the fuel pump, the pump and the sled both run. I ran this test form both connections- the one closest to the fuel pump, and at ECU connector.

The main wiring harness and its connectors look great. I pulled the seat and the taillight to inspect the common wear areas- all looks good. I can't find a short anywhere.

Is there anything else I need to check before taking an expensive gamble on a replacement ECU?

The only other electrical issue I can find on this snowmobile is that both low beam bulbs are blown. Could the blown bulbs related to the fuel pump not getting power?

I wish I knew somebody with an M6 so I could verify whether or not my ECU is bad, but I don't. The suspect ECU has no visual signs of damage or shorting.
Reply With Quote


Rate this post: Yes | No
  #2  
Old 02-15-2018, 07:05 AM
Old & slow Old & slow is offline
Currently: Not set.
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 229
Thanks: 59
Thanked 45 Times in 37 Posts
Rep Power: 1919618
Old & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond repute
Default

You could run two new wires from the ecm to the fuel pump directly, this would verify the ecm. The harness can be taken apart and just install new wires that way there is no cutting and splicing. Did you check the fuse? If the ecm is not putting out a signal make sure it is getting the proper input. I think you have a wiring problem, broken wire / bad ground something like that. The M had issues on the left side of the fuel tank also. Don't discount other electrical issues they may seem unrelated but could be connected.
edit
Forgot to mention inspect all connectors for corrosion and reassemble with dielectric grease. I very small amount of resistance is all it takes.

Last edited by Old & slow; 02-15-2018 at 07:09 AM.
Reply With Quote


Rate this post: Yes | No
  #3  
Old 02-15-2018, 08:45 AM
CallMeAl CallMeAl is offline
Currently: Not set.
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Bozeman, MT
Basic Member
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
CallMeAl is an unknown quantity at this point
Default

O+S- Thanks for the idea. I'll give that a shot.

If I've already jumped it successfully from the connector, wouldn't that mean the wires are good though? Or is 12V so much power that it doesn't mimic a normal running scenario?

RE: Left side of fuel tank- do you mean the wires in the left foot well, or the wires under the tank?

Thanks again,
Alex
Reply With Quote


Rate this post: Yes | No
  #4  
Old 02-15-2018, 01:07 PM
jim jim is offline
Currently: Keyboard highmarking at its best.
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Boise
Posts: 696
Thanks: 48
Thanked 237 Times in 114 Posts
Rep Power: 0
jim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond reputejim has a reputation beyond repute
Default

The previous bad stator may have messed with the ECU. Everything you said points to the ECU not supplying the power. I'm not sure if you could bypass the ECU or not and power the pump differently...but that might be a less expensive option.
Reply With Quote


Rate this post: Yes | No
  #5  
Old 02-16-2018, 06:59 AM
Old & slow Old & slow is offline
Currently: Not set.
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 229
Thanks: 59
Thanked 45 Times in 37 Posts
Rep Power: 1919618
Old & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond reputeOld & slow has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeAl View Post
O+S- Thanks for the idea. I'll give that a shot.

If I've already jumped it successfully from the connector, wouldn't that mean the wires are good though? Or is 12V so much power that it doesn't mimic a normal running scenario?

RE: Left side of fuel tank- do you mean the wires in the left foot well, or the wires under the tank?

Thanks again,
Alex
If you jump the pump from the ecm connector then yes that would mean the wires are good. If you have a volt meter you can add the 12 v to the pump again and put the meter to dc voltage then place the meter leads at each end of the wire you are jumping. You should get 0 volts, check both wires with the pump running. If the meter shows voltage you have issues with the wires .5 of a volt is to much. You are checking the potential difference of the wire.
On the left side of the fuel tank remove the consul and you will see the harness check it over closely. Another place to check the harness is right along the right side by the engine i have seen some fail there from rubbing.

Last edited by Old & slow; 02-16-2018 at 07:09 AM.
Reply With Quote


Rate this post: Yes | No
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
ecu, fuel

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Thread — m1000 ecu ccu throttle bodies fuel pump Thread Starter — 660popo Forum — Engine/Engine Parts (Swapmeet) Replies — 4 Last Post — 07-28-2014 06:43 PM
Thread — M7 ECU, injectors, tb's, stator, fuel pump, misc. Thread Starter — 03Firecatguy Forum — Engine/Engine Parts (Swapmeet) Replies — 5 Last Post — 04-01-2013 08:02 PM
Thread — 2007 Skidoo fuel tank w/fuel pump 600 SDI Thread Starter — aktrucker Forum — Carb/Airbox/Reeds (Swapmeet) Replies — 1 Last Post — 12-11-2011 01:15 PM
Thread — '98 PS 600 ECU/AirBox/Fuel Pump/Throttle Body/ Thread Starter — MotoSteve Forum — Carb/Airbox/Reeds (Swapmeet) Replies — 0 Last Post — 09-10-2009 02:12 PM
Thread — '98 PS 600 ECU/AirBox/Fuel Pump/Throttle Body/ Thread Starter — MotoSteve Forum — Arctic Cat: Powder Special and older Replies — 0 Last Post — 09-10-2009 02:08 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:06 AM.