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  #1  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:34 PM
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Default My '06 RAW Chassis Build

Well, I figured I'd finally post this on SnoWest, now that there is an end in sight to my build. This project started last March, I was forced to take a few months off in the middle of summer, and I got back on the ball in October.

The reason for this build started because I NEEDED to do something in regards to the ice build up problem that the '05's and '06's are notorious for, as well as the high temperatures these machines run on hard-packed trails. On the MFD, I only ever used the "engine temp" mode on the digital side, and the "normal temperature" was consistently between 145*-165*. If I wouldn't watch the temperature closely, at slower speeds and/or poor snow conditions through towns, those numbers would quickly rise to uncomforting levels...and force shutdowns in most cases. Granted, this wasn't 100% of the time, as long as I rode in excellent conditions, or any type of off trail days, the engine temperature was right on the dot near 130*. However, with tons of cooling snow, forced unwanted circumstances...a 40# block of ice to form between the rear cooler up to the bulkhead. In one instance, this block came loose and was forced further forward with the track, and wedged itself between the bulkhead and the track...I was lucky this happened at a slow enough speed where it didn't cause a loss of control. From that point on, I racked my mind into what I could do to solve both problems with one fix.

My first thoughts were to just get a double pass cooler and tie into the cooling system somewhere between the rear cooler and the bulkhead. This would definitely be the "easy way out", but felt like it may be an issue bleeding the air out, and it would add more weight to an already heavy machine. It would, however, give me the opportunity to remove the right-on-next-to-useless front radiator to compensate some of said weight, but it felt more like a band-aid than a permanent repair. Plus, I never liked the look of the rear plastic racks and they constantly broke.

My plan? Find a RAW tunnel and make it fit. This presents a lot of problems in itself. The biggest of which was how to get the coolant hoses under/in front of the gas tank. Easy answer is to get a different tank. The problem is, is that any of the newer tanks are intended for sleds that run their injectors at 58 PSI...I have a four injector '06 that runs 116 PSI...A pump that I'm pretty sure won't fit into the opening of the newer style tanks. The solution...an '07 RMK 700 tank...a hybrid, if you will, between the identical size of the '05-06 tanks and the same exact fuel pump ran in '05. The differences being the pump motor itself and the capacity. The larger capacity causes yet another issue...the steering hoop won't fit the taller tank. I could have just re-welded the tabs that keep the tank tight, but if the hoop would ever break for some unforeseen reason, modifications would need to go into it to get me back on the trail. The solution? A steering hoop/overstructure form an '07 RMK. Only hiccup would be that I'd need more parts to make it work...the console parts in front of the riders' knees. I've always really liked the way the RAW RMK's looked, so all of this together enticed me to go through with everything, and start looking for parts.

The parts list that I've used:

'07 RMK 700 tank
'07 RMK 600 overstructure
'09 Assault Tunnel top/cooler
'09 Body plastics + bumper
Stock seat
Stock suspension
'07+ bulkhead cooler
Better Boards
'07+ Aluminum console vents
'07 RMK 700 console

Without further adieu, here's my build:

The ice block
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The result of the ice block
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The teardown...I had a PTO seal blow out on me last February
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Mocking up the new overstructure
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I drilled the holes on the bulkhead where the carriage bolts are supposed to be, then used a small, flat file to square the holes off
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Mock up of the '07 tank with the '06 seat
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I'm reusing the sides of the stock tunnel. This way, suspension mounts won't need to change for the stock skid. I rough cut the top off, and marked the tunnel 0.741" from the top, and gave it to a good friend of mine, who put each side in a shear press and knocked it down to my exact dimensions.
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  #2  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:53 PM
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I'm not using the perimeter cooling anymore, as I think it would look tacky as all get out running a crossover tube near the back of the tunnel. Plus, it would be a restriction running the stock one(13/16") inline with the tunnel cooler(1"). So I cut out a hole for the newer style bulkhead cooler to run parallel with the rest of the system.
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I welded up all of the holes where the original suspension brackets were, and I'm in the process right now of straightening and flattening the tunnel sides.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:02 PM
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More More More OMG that should be killer! is it done yet??
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Old 12-20-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05900 View Post
More More More OMG that should be killer! is it done yet??
No, it's not done quite yet...but it's getting closer!!!

One of my other obstacles was the steering shaft and the new overstructure/steering hoop. The RAW style is intended for a straight shaft, while the '05 wouldn't be an issue because it only had two injectors, the '06 is a problem because it has four. I kept the same '06 shaft and it's mounts, and made a custom bracket at the top of new steering hoop.

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The bracket is getting cleaned up and going in for powdercoating. The bracket is two pieces of 3/16" flat stock butt-welded together and each piece was bent 10* to accommodate the different angle between the shaft itself and the angle in which a straight shaft should be in the case of the newer RAW chassis'. The reason I went this route, because again, if the shaft or the overstructure need to be replaced, all modifications are bolt-on-ready.
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Old 12-21-2013, 06:15 AM
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great job man.

I like the part where you kept the sides of the OEM tunnel, pretty slick idea...but you will not get any of the benefits of the newer style running board options or easy snow removal from the area...should have went with the Skinz Running boards :P

my only other concern at the moment, (cause you know as well I do, you don't know your issues till your at that point of the build, lol) is the steering hoop rigidity...

when I did the dragon steering hoop conversion on my 06 rmk 900 turbo...I busted that hoop in 3 different places...you MUST use the engine brace supports to get the strength, the MAG side isn't an issue and can be doubled with the OEM 900 engine brace...I see you have the one on the PTO side installed as well, but I think I tried that but it hit the secondary so I didn't use it...that was the first break I had...

second was the area where you added that plate for the steering column...I did a similar deal as yours and it busted the top of the hoop (yours looks too thin and will end up bending..trust me)...third spot it broke on me was the MAG side just above the engine brace...

what console are using, Dragon? you will have to make a small bracket that supports the console cause it doesn't touch the steering hoop like the 900 console does (you can buy it for cheap from the dealer also...

keep it up man...I have a 2010 dragon chassis I wanna do my next 900 build on, but also have a Fabcraft 900 tunnel assembly, so pretty torn on what direction to go..lol...

let me know if I can help at all!!
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2013, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guidoxpress View Post
great job man.

I like the part where you kept the sides of the OEM tunnel, pretty slick idea...but you will not get any of the benefits of the newer style running board options or easy snow removal from the area...should have went with the Skinz Running boards :P

my only other concern at the moment, (cause you know as well I do, you don't know your issues till your at that point of the build, lol) is the steering hoop rigidity...

when I did the dragon steering hoop conversion on my 06 rmk 900 turbo...I busted that hoop in 3 different places...you MUST use the engine brace supports to get the strength, the MAG side isn't an issue and can be doubled with the OEM 900 engine brace...I see you have the one on the PTO side installed as well, but I think I tried that but it hit the secondary so I didn't use it...that was the first break I had...

second was the area where you added that plate for the steering column...I did a similar deal as yours and it busted the top of the hoop (yours looks too thin and will end up bending..trust me)...third spot it broke on me was the MAG side just above the engine brace...

what console are using, Dragon? you will have to make a small bracket that supports the console cause it doesn't touch the steering hoop like the 900 console does (you can buy it for cheap from the dealer also...

keep it up man...I have a 2010 dragon chassis I wanna do my next 900 build on, but also have a Fabcraft 900 tunnel assembly, so pretty torn on what direction to go..lol...

let me know if I can help at all!!

The reason I kept the 900 tunnel sides and didn't go with the newer RAW was because I'm keeping it a 144"...pretty hard to find a complete RAW RMK chassis that isn't junk!!!! There are WAY more 151"+ track RMKs available. I really wish that I could find one just for the running boards, it would end up WAY cleaner, in my opinion. In the meantime, I've just received some better boards that I'm going to slap on there...

A larger concern for me as well is the RAW steering hoop. I've read numerous stories of these breaking at the most inopportune times. I'm running this one this year, I have a spare, and I plan on making one of chromoly or maybe just thicker mild steel later down the line.

Guido, I REALLY appreciate your input, it means a lot to me. I'm a big advocate of constructive criticism!!!! Keep the opinions coming!!!!
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:40 PM
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who said that was constructive?? lol. jk...

i know someone with a chromoly RAW steering hoop, engine braces and the dragon running board supports that is selling them. was $200 but i bet you can work a deal.
send me a Pm for a reminder and i will send the link to you. i know him well. you will just have to redue the part where the steering column connects.

only otherthing i can see from the pics...
you BETTER not be runing those skis lol...get grippers already!! Zero pros will work fine, what about a skid setup? you can go with Assault 144 rails for direct fit and newer look, find some zero pro shocks and get the heavy torsion springs and your MONEY!

keep it up man, nothing like building your own sled the way YOU want it...i have TONZ of respect for that over some of the other so called "sled builders" out there
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:27 PM
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Progress has been slow, but steady lately. Everything is going smoothly.

The suspension brackets are formed to run between the side of the tunnel and round up to the top of the tunnel, which won't work because the top of MY tunnel is now a cooler. I had a friend shear them down, so they only run up the sides of the tunnel now. I don't have updated pictures of these yet, but I had to weld the holes of the original self-piercing rivets that Polaris used at the factory to install the sled, which measure out to about .214" when the self-piercing rivet is drilled out. A lot of the holes cannot be moved over, and solid aluminum rivets need a hole about .190".
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I also got the bulkhead cooler all buttoned up. This picture is with the bulkhead cleco'd up, but I used Polaris "gold", hardened rivets for the final install.
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The tunnel sides are pretty much all straightened up from the welding of all the original bracket self-piercing holes. I'm playing around with sand paper grits to get a nice looking, yet maintainable finish...last year I polished the 9 to a mirror, but it starts to look like crap once it sees the trail. I'm hoping to find the best of both worlds this time!!! I'm also cutting out the foot traction dimples for the Better Boards.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:23 AM
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man this really makes me wanna do the RAW build i was planning on instead of using my extra Fabcraft tunnel...but this RAW build will be for my girl friend and be Black/Pink...LOL...

keep it up man, your doing some awesome work.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:42 AM
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:17 PM
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