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2000 MM700

I
Nov 25, 2016
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I recently picked up a 00' MM700 it has 4600mi and is in great condition. The guy I got it from rode it at 10,000ft and it has been jetted and clutch mods for that elevation. I will be riding it at 4,000-7,000ft. The clutch has the GWG spring and I have not removed it to see what rivits it has for weight. The jets I will obviously change (would stock be about right on the mains and pilots) It also has from what I can tell a Sno-stuff rumble can. Any in put or suggestions appreciated . TIA
 
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LoneViper

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 28, 2007
514
328
63
74
Great Falls, Montana
My 2000 MM was set up as follows,

6,000 to 8,000 ft 100% stock no pipes.

Mains, #1 - 133.8, #2&3 132.5
Piolet jet 57.5
Fuel screw 1.5 -2
Needle 1.5
clutch- Standard

I rode this stock sled every where from 4,000 feet to 10,000 and never changed a thing and it never missed a beat.

you might look this over.
http://www.zenitram-inc.com/kgmz.htm
 
I
Nov 25, 2016
6
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Thanks for the info. I talked to another guy he said to try


#1 138.8
#2-3 137.5
55 pilot
np-2.5
1 3/4 turn


I found the specs for a stock clutch and got a softer spring also now I just have too take it off and see what the weight are (hoping its still all stock and I can just change the spring)
 
T
Dec 4, 2016
6
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3
Jetting

The jetting is kind of complicated. It is based on both temperature and altitude. It is not practical to tune to the level that the manual calls for if you live in the mountains. Yamaha calls for different jets every 20degF (from -40 to +60) and every 1500ft. Typically I ride from 2500 ft to about 6500ft from 0F to about 35F. I set mine for the lowest altitude and temperature I am likely to encounter in a season. Setting up the richest practical setting. If you want I can send you the scanned page. Its going to require a little effort on my part to get my scanner working.
 
I
Nov 25, 2016
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also when the previous owner did the air box mod they just took the baffle out. I know in the page on tataollyamaha it says to put it back in other than jetting will this really matter or should I get a baffle to put in it
 
I
Nov 25, 2016
6
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Ok so I rejetted "3900ft" the machine (138.8pto 137.5 #2-3 55 pilot needle#2 and 1 5/8 turns) I took it out and rode it seemed to run fine ( they had removed the plate from the air box and cut the holes in the top so I got the parts and put it all back to stock. I went out for another ride and it now runs like crap. It starts and idles fine but once its warm(seems pto cylinder take longer to get warm) and you take off it starts to stumble and back fire. Once its reved up it goes good but when you let off it wants to die and just seems like its loaded up. I checked the plugs and #2-3 look good but the pto has really no color at all on it ( I decided to just go one step richer to be on the safe side) (140 pto 138.8 #2-3 everything else the same) still runs like crap. I have cleaned the carbs changed plugs checked spark all looks good just cant figure when it changed from when i put the air box back to stock. It should be richer anyway but the popping back firing has me stumped. Any help appreciated.
 
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ultimax

Member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 28, 2007
55
17
8
Washington State
MMax 700 Setup

I have triple pipes on mine now, but when it was stock I ran 136.3 mains, #2 needle position and stock #45 pilot jets. Pilot fuel screws are set at 2.5 turns out. Clutching is the stock 8cr weights with a 3.6 inner rivet and 2.4 outer rivet. Clutch spring is y/w/y with stock green secondary spring set at 70 degrees. I also have the air box gutted and the head gasket thinned. I ride consistently at temperatures of 20-30 degrees at 3000-6000ft level. Runs great!
 
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