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Polaris: GEN 2 1999-2001, all models in the Gen 2 chassis
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  #1  
Old 09-08-2009, 11:07 AM
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Default Suspension settings for mountain riding

I'm riding a 00' 800 RMK 136"x2" and weigh 155ish with all my gear on.

What rear suspension settings should I be running to get a significant amount of transfer while maintaining a decent attack angle??????

I don't know how much difference the mods I have on it would make but I'll list them.
Escape seat(boss designed, -10lbs)
better boards
2 8" wheel kit
full slp exhaust and intake w/florites
hi-comp head
slp powder pro's
no swaybar
bar risers


Thanks in advance
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:47 AM
augerin augerin is offline
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If I remember right I had the swaybar removed also, fox extended travel shocks with the springs set light up front. In the back I had fox and heavy springs set at medium. I just played with mine constantly for about a year in different conditions until I found what worked for me and by the time I was done it was quite a difference. The sled was plyable and easy to throw around in the powder but could be a little tippy on the trail.

Good luck
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:38 PM
STRETCHITOUT STRETCHITOUT is offline
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i run my limiter strap all the way down for the deep. mine has stock very wore out suspension i am running med up front and stiff in back i weigh 220... it's time for some new suspention thu
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:23 PM
manowar manowar is offline
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Good work guys keep the info comming if we can get some more detialed info on this i can sticky it for us .
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:22 AM
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You don't need a "significant amount" of weight transfer.

Your shock set up and limiter straps can be adjusted for ideal amount of transfer.

Ideal amount is to just have the skis skegs hovering above the snow on a climb...NOT wheelieing up the mtn. You are losing traction if you are doing that.

SLP does make a bolt on part to remount the top mount of your front rail shock for powder performance. I'd advise getting that.
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  #6  
Old 09-15-2009, 01:45 PM
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hey scott, how does that help by remounting the front shock???? Not sure if i understand??

thanks

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Originally Posted by Scott View Post
You don't need a "significant amount" of weight transfer.

Your shock set up and limiter straps can be adjusted for ideal amount of transfer.

Ideal amount is to just have the skis skegs hovering above the snow on a climb...NOT wheelieing up the mtn. You are losing traction if you are doing that.

SLP does make a bolt on part to remount the top mount of your front rail shock for powder performance. I'd advise getting that.
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Old 09-15-2009, 02:13 PM
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The front shock angle is changed...it lays down just a bit more. It changes the skid geometry a little bit.

It supposedly helps get the GenII's up on top the powder better.
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:08 PM
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I like a lot of weight transfer for hillclimbing.

What's worked for me are the stock torsion springs with the adjuster block in the softest position. Dial in some more pre-load on the skids front rear spring. Loosen up the limiter strap and keep it greased.

Even though i also have a gen II I cant remember if the xlite has multiple options on: 1) the stock drop brackets and 2.) where the suspension mounts to the rails..........if I recall sometimes these can also impact weight transfer. I would just stick with the stuff above.

To your list of mods I would a add a tunnel extension and 151 skid and track and you'll have a whole new machine.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2010, 10:56 AM
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Need some more info here...

What I found this year is that there is a balance in the suspension regarding height and handling.

Got suspension mounting tips from Curtis at FTX and "adjusted" these a bit. Put my M-10 lower in the tunnel = higher sled, more clearance I thought.
Also has tall front suspension to match.

What I find is that on steep climbs it is very tippy!! It wants to steer to the sides and send you back down the mountain. The slightest touch of my skis on the snow pushes my front out from the hill, not to good!

I got my height and clearance, but it cost me climbing ability and I think it hurts the sidehilling/laying over in trees etc.
It seems the height coupled with a triple up front makes for a "go/no-go" sidehilling. You either manage to muscle it over, or it dives7tips down again.

My plan for the summer is to look at the bulkhead and see if it is worth re-doing to a lower engine (tubes or something) or just lowering the suspension.

Thoughts/comments?
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:16 PM
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:31 PM
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:13 PM
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