KTM 300 XC-W 2008, Misha Subo, please help me, I will be installing . . .

Timberview01 · Nov 23, 2018

Ben,

Sorry to hear that you were given the wrong parts. I was extremely impressed with the fit kit that came with my track. When it showed up in early September, I tried to mock it up and measure everything to make sure I had the right pieces, but that proved to be difficult. We rode dirt until a few weeks ago - so i was kind of holding my breath until I could finally get everything bolted up. The swingarm bushing was a tight fit, but ultimately went together with little resistance. I found that when trying to line it up from the kickstart side, the bushing on the shifter side would hit the frame and slide out a tad - just enough to keep if from fitting into place. Once we noticed that, it went in no problem. I also learned that tightening up the bottom of the strut rod prior to mounting the top was a mistake. Not much wiggle room when the bolt is torqued. Should be an easier process next year...

I hope they get it all sorted out for you soon. I had to deal with that frustration on my last kit and was quite happy to have everything I needed this time.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 23, 2018

As this is the 3rd Camso kit I will have installed, the first two went flawlessly, all the parts and th correct parts were there and it all went together like it should have.

I agree, keepin the red-loctited bolt loose in the bottom of the strut rod makes it a LOT easier getting the top strut rod bolt in where it needs to go, then with a long socket extension and the 18mm socket, tightening that up last.

I called my local dealer-the parts guy that I used to get stuff for my CR500R's a long time ago, like starting in 2003, who will contact Camso and let them know about the top of the strut rod's missing T-Bushing as well as the LH Inner bushing that is just too thick to fit.

Thankfully there is no snow to ride on and no plans to ride so it is not a big rush at all to have them yesterday.

Timberview01 · Nov 24, 2018

Having a good dealer makes all the difference, no matter the product or brand. Hopefully they get you taken care of this week.

We had our first significant snow at lower elevations last night, but it has been piling up on the mountains for two weeks. There are several more storms headed our way, so I hope to put the first miles on my 2019 kit next weekend. Will be sticking to roads until the base sets up, but very anxious to see the differences between this set-up and the last one. Hope to get the initial break-in adjustments done before the stuff gets too deep.

Have fun!

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 26, 2018

Sometimes I read about stuff that happens with others and since they have never happened to me, I think 'Man, that can't really happen, can it?'

So, last Thursday, Camso tech-service emails me and tells me that I need to contact the dealer that I bought the kit from and go through them to get what I need.

I contact my dealer on Friday and they tell me that I have to go through Camso and to call them as they are not technically a dealer and just went through a distributor to get the kit.

I call this morning and the customer service tells me that I have to go through my dealer.

I call my dealer, again. Now, to make it easy-it is not easy as having to go back for missing/not fitting parts is really unnecessary, so to make it easier, I will go back with a strut rod that does not have a anti-rotation T-Bushing-probably less than a $5 part made of aluminum that is small but needed so the top-shock bolt/strut bolt=same thing, won't damage the ball in the heim joint. Then I just need the correct thickness for the inner LH t-bushing so the track can fit in the engine case/frame. It can be milled to the correct thickness but I have no idea how much needs to be taken off.

Why is this so hard for Camso to help me with as so far I have a kit that I can't complete the install on as I'm being used as a tennis-ball and being hit back and forth. For crying out loud.

wwillf01 · Nov 26, 2018

I would go to the dealer and call customer service from there and let them hash it out...I know my dealer deals with anything like that... I never talk to Camso... If they got it from a distributor then they need to call the distributor and have them talk to them... Sounds like the dealer is lazy.

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Ben 500RR-S · Nov 26, 2018

I did go to the dealer today. The parts guy had checked out all the manuals I had and would get me the anti-rotation/T-bushing for the heim joint at the top of the Strut Rod. It is the only part I am now missing.

I had to take a leap of faith and with a hacksaw and a loose vice that I keep around and put on top of a stool to hold the bushing, just sawed off what I thought was the thickness that needed to be taken out so the track could get slotted into place and luck of all luck, the amount I hacked and filed was about perfect.

I now just need the t-bushing. I mean, how hard can it be? I just need what might be a $5 piece of aluminum sent to me and the install is done.

I loaded my bike and the KTM into the trailer as I'll be bringing both bikes up north and ride if there is enough snow. I was up at my BIL's yesterday and we rode the sleds in about 4-6" of mashed potato-snow. It was a blast. Just enough snow to ride on. I just ran the top shock bolt through the strut rod's heim joint for now just to get it out of the basement. I can finish the install in the trailer as all I'll need to do is put the t-bushing in and tighten up that top shock bolt then install the bottom bolt for the bottom of the strut rod. Put the cover on the track and then run the brake line up to the handlebars and clamp the brake to the handlebar.

Come on t-bushing!

Misha Subo · Nov 26, 2018

This is the assembled strut showing the lower t-spacer, as I have done for the 300 XCW.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 27, 2018

I have the big T-Spacer along with the three rubber "bumpers for which I understand that two will go under the spacer and then one will go underneath.

Just got off the phone with my local dealer. He said he had seen the email this morning and that Camso is sending the missing T-Bushing so it should be a " . . . couple of days." As long as I get it by Friday so I can take it up north to complete the job and we can ride it this upcoming weekend.

Misha Subo · Nov 27, 2018

Here's a pic of the full strut with the tie-rod end at the top (spherical alignment coupling). Not sure what you mean by t-bushing - is that the flanged aluminium spacer at the bottom end (below the hex)? Hopefully I put this thing together properly. I think I've only got one rubber ring below the spacer and possibly two below the frame held in by the big flat washer and a nyloc nut. I'll be checking later this week as my garage floor is still cold and the boiler guys are scheduled to install heat this week. It's keeping the bikes out of the garage and in pieces, covered in leaves at the side of the house for now.:juggle:

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 27, 2018

There is what is called an "Anti rotation bushing" a T-Bushing that goes into the flat side of the top of the strut rod and the bolt goes in from the RH side into the frame, then into the T-Bushing that one just lubes/greases and then the bolt goes into the "flat" frame on the other side.

It is my understanding that the bolt needs to ride in the bushing and then the bushing lays against the flat part of the frame on the LH side so that the heim joint/ball can move a just a little and the T-bushing/"Anti rotation bushing" can lay flat against the frame to better support the top of the strut rod.

I have all I need with the three big black -one side rubber the other side metal-bushings and the big T-spacer on the bottom of the strut rod. The placard on the bottom of the strut rod said I should use diagram 2 which has 2 of the rubber spacers above the track and one below and that is what I'm going to go with. I had read where someone had swapped them to get the track to lay flat. It is easy enough to swap everything now that I've done it so many times.

It seems that you put the top shock/strut bolt right through the heim joint and tightened it down.

On both my Beta and my BIL's Honda, they both came with the Anti rotation bushings so I'm pretty sure that this KTM needs one as well.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 27, 2018

Misha Subo said:
Here's a pic of the full strut with the tie-rod end at the top (spherical alignment coupling). Not sure what you mean by t-bushing - is that the flanged aluminium spacer at the bottom end (below the hex)? Hopefully I put this thing together properly. I think I've only got one rubber ring below the spacer and possibly two below the frame held in by the big flat washer and a nyloc nut. I'll be checking later this week as my garage floor is still cold and the boiler guys are scheduled to install heat this week. It's keeping the bikes out of the garage and in pieces, covered in leaves at the side of the house for now.:juggle:

See Figure 11 and part B1 in this link for what I'm waiting for. It did not come with the kit. If you don't have one, I would get one.

https://camso.co/assets/services/DB/5900-07-0593-MAN.pdf

I got the bushing B2 in Figure 12 that was too big. I had to cut 2-3mm off to get it to fit but it was not big deal with a hacksaw.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 27, 2018

Now that I'm almost done this install. After doing two before it, it is now so easy to do. As the KTM has no linkage, it seems that the KTM has been the easiest install.

A few tips that I learned from this thread an on another;

Leave the bolt for the bottom of the strut rod loose when getting the swingarm bolt in or one will have a very hard time getting the top of the strut rod to then line up with the top shock/strut bolt-holes. Otherwise there is really nothing to it.

What helped too was a chain sideplate press I bought along with master link pliers that I also got. It's the little things that make working on the bikes so easy.

Misha Subo · Nov 27, 2018

Now that you showed that figure with the upper t-spacer, I recall it on mine. It must be with my bag full of bushings and hardware, wherever that is?. Also correct, the lower rubber stack should be left loose prior to aligning the upper rod end strut mount...makes docking the unit possible but one must swing a wrench in the tightest of areas when tightening the lower nut at the end. Camso had to make one frame and strut location suit all bikes out there. Due to the PDS linkless suspension the KTM has a right-located shock which causes the need to force the strut sideways compared to link-style shocks.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 27, 2018

I had to buy a set of big metric open ended wrenches just to get the 25mm one that would fit that lower nut. At least Harbor Freight has a decent metric set for not all that much money.

It is so true, the real trick is to ignore the instructions and NOT tighten the bolt at the bottom of the strut rod in order to finagle the top bolt into place.

I also bought a long socket extension so I can easily tighten that lower strut rod bolt up through the track window.

The sled also has some odd 16mm bolts that are for the chain adjustments. I had to buy a 6 sided 16mm socket as my sets did not have one. I did have one from a very cheap set and it cracked/broke from either tightening or loosening those chain adjuster bolts.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 30, 2018

Misha Subo said:
Now that you showed that figure with the upper t-spacer, I recall it on mine. It must be with my bag full of bushings and hardware, wherever that is?. Also correct, the lower rubber stack should be left loose prior to aligning the upper rod end strut mount...makes docking the unit possible but one must swing a wrench in the tightest of areas when tightening the lower nut at the end. Camso had to make one frame and strut location suit all bikes out there. Due to the PDS linkless suspension the KTM has a right-located shock which causes the need to force the strut sideways compared to link-style shocks.

As the drasted T-Bushing might not be at my dealer by the end of the day today, did you run without the T-Bushing?

Just the bolt through the heim joint/top of the strut rod ball thingy?

Misha Subo · Nov 30, 2018

I think you could do that but it would help to stack a couple of washers to make up the gap that the t-spacer occupies as you will need to tighten the top bolt against solid material. Otherwise you could bend the top shock bracket on the frame by squeezing it too hard. Measure the top strut eye width and the gap on the frame where it lives, the difference between the two is your spacer thickness - does not have to be exact. Note, it may be very tough to fit a couple of washers since the strut has to be really forced sideways to align with the top mount in the bike frame. Your home made spacer will attempt to fall out as you try to align it all. If you use a spacer, check it often.

Ben 500RR-S · Nov 30, 2018

Thanks MS!!!

We're gonna chance it and try the bike out without the t-bushing. The worst thing is that the ball in the heim joint will get worn a little and the fix is to just order a new threaded part of that piece and good-to-go.

Perhaps, if I use one of the thick(er)-spacers against the LH side of the frame where the frame has been flattened, all will work till the T-Bushing arrives.

We're going to try it tomorrow as I just need to bolt the top shock and then spin the bottom bolt on and then adjust the track angle for flat and then see how it goes.

Thanks again MS. There is some decent snow here in east-central VT and I'm going to get to enjoy it tomorrow as my bike is running perfect and my snowmobile is waiting for me too. I had just spent about 30 minutes riding the kids new 19 SnoScoot and I was really glad I had left it with my Nephew In Law as he took the time this week to help break in the motor for the kiddies but I'll say, this past Sunday, the engine had no power. Even at WOT for a moment, it just didn't have what it could-have.

After what might have been 1-2 hours of break in, the engine has woken up some and now has some decent snap for 9.499999-HP from the Yamaha heavy-duty pressure washer four cycle engine tuned for kids 200cc snowmobile duty and I will say, it really is a hoot, especially as I'm a Wayne Gretzky-like 170 lbs so I'm sort of light.

Ben 500RR-S · Dec 6, 2018

Camso sent the same round bushing that had come with the kit.

Apparently the Camso-named "T-bushing" is not a t-bushing but just a plain, thick washer or bushing, the anti-rotation doohickey-thing.

The top shock bolt or the top strut rod bolt goes through the ball in the heim joint, then through the bushing, then into the frame, that is it.

Ben 500RR-S · Dec 8, 2018

The bushing is in, installed on the LH-side of the strut rods heim joint.

The 2008 KTM 300 Camso DTS 129 install is now complete.

Misha Subo · Dec 8, 2018

So it's just a regular spacer after all. Bushings are usually named as such when they serve a shaft-bearing purpose. Camso should call it a flanged spacer when there is a t-shape cross section but in this case I recall it is just a simple spacer washer. My two kits are still buried under the leaves by the side of the house. Will be installing soon.

KTM 300 XC-W 2008, Misha Subo, please help me, I will be installing . . .

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