2016 Front End or 2016 Clutching/Jackshaft/gears

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

Been meaning to also ask this for a while now. Which upgrade do you think is most worth while making to a 2014 Proclimb 800; the 2016 front end, or the 2016 clutching/jackshaft/gears? There are lots of things on the list for this year but i have to pick most likely only one of them unless i win the lottery or rob a bank JK LOL. Please explain why as well.

Thanks again for your expertise!

CO 2.0 · Sep 13, 2015

[Well Id have to say the jackshaft gears and clutching. Even though fun factor, the 16 front end is much better. The 14 jackshaft is a weak link. Im sure there are many that havent had an issue, but I snapped mine at 1000 miles. Upgrading to the 15 shaft was cheap and easy. About $100. 16 jackshaft is even better but havent heard of anyone snapping a 15 shaft yet. The chain on the 14 is weak and the bottom aluminum gear wears bad and quick. Failure potential is there. I broke a silent chain link at 500 miles. Luckily caught it with maintenance before it failed completely. Team has a nice bw hyvo chain and team steel gear setup for $200. Try 20/49. Although 19/50 does work and clutch temps stay lower. Last the stock primary spring is junk. Too high engagement and sacks out quick causing loss of rpm. Go with a speederx h5 alloy spring. Much better metal used and higher tensile strength over your standard chrome silicon spring. I used 120/310 in my 14. Gonna try a 114/285 in my 16 cause the clutches are different. Also buy some metal thunder products glide washers and put one under the primary spring in the cover. I tried one on both ends but one is enough to eliminate spring bind and not raise clutch engagement too much. $65 total for clutching. Stock weights work well enough IMO. Total of $365 or so

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Well Id have to say the jackshaft gears and clutching. Even though fun factor, the 16 front end is much better. The 14 jackshaft is a weak link. Im sure there are many that havent had an issue, but I snapped mine at 1000 miles. Upgrading to the 15 shaft was cheap and easy. About $100. 16 jackshaft is even better but havent heard of anyone snapping a 15 shaft yet. The chain on the 14 is weak and the bottom aluminum gear wears bad and quick. Failure potential is there. I broke a silent chain link at 500 miles. Luckily caught it with maintenance before it failed completely. Team has a nice bw hyvo chain and team steel gear setup for $200. Try 20/49. Although 19/50 does work and clutch temps stay lower. Last the stock primary spring is junk. Too high engagement and sacks out quick causing loss of rpm. Go with a speederx h5 alloy spring. Much better metal used and higher tensile strength over your standard chrome silicon spring. I used 120/310 in my 14. Gonna try a 122/285 in my 16 cause the clutches are different. Also buy some metal thunder products glide washers and put one under the primary spring in the cover. I tried one on both ends but one is enough to eliminate spring bind and not raise clutch engagement too much. $65 total for clutching. Stock weights work well enough IMO. Total of $365 or so

Thanks C.0! The only thing that worries me a bit is going to a 20/49 because of the belt blowing issues with the stock clutching. Everything else seems fairly well explained and makes sense. So from what it sounds like, would you say it would be worth saving the money and just purchasing a 2015 jackshaft and the team hyvo chain and gears, Along with the clutching upgrades that you listed. So for me probably around 1000 CAD. Is that what you were thinking?

CO 2.0 · Sep 13, 2015

Yeah. Havent looked up pricing on the 16 jackshaft. Not even sure its up yet on the parts fiche. Aftermarket shaft just seems overkill unless you are putting out a ton of power with turbo or super charger.

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Yeah. Havent looked up pricing on the 16 jackshaft. Not even sure its up yet on the parts fiche. Aftermarket shaft just seems overkill unless you are putting out a ton of power with turbo or super charger.

Would I only need the jackshaft or also the assembly? At this link would I need part 21 or 22?

http://www.arcticcatparts.ca/OEMpar...]/3|~S2015M8HPSUSO/3|~S2015M8HPSUSO|~0748-333

And which spring would you say i should go with?

CO 2.0 · Sep 13, 2015

You need shaft, and all items behind top gear in chaincase side. Id also put a snap ring from 15-16 on the bottom gear. The one on there now is a pain in the azz getting off without the proper tool. Id go with 120/310 spring

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
You need shaft, and all items behind top gear in chaincase side. Id also put a snap ring from 15-16 on the bottom gear. The one on there now is a pain in the azz getting off without the proper tool. Id go with 120/310 spring

Ok great, I didnt know that team was bought by vennom so in order to get the team hyvo chain and gears i will have to contact them. Still curious to see wat others have to say but you definitely convinced me for the most part.

CO 2.0 · Sep 13, 2015

Call michelle at oregon trail sports on Tuesday. She will set you up and get you the best deal

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Call michelle at oregon trail sports on Tuesday. She will set you up and get you the best deal

I will call he anyways but I may be better off dealing with a Canadian dealer if possible. Thanks for the tips though i appreciate it! Looking forward to getting this stuff started once i get my sled back from the dealer. Ive had some issues over a large part of last season with it having a low end bog that ruins days. I can get it cleared out but as soon as RPMs lower again it begins to completely load up again and go to what sounds like its on one cylinder. Dealer is having problems pin pointing the issue. Nothing showing on the computer.

fast8seccamaro · Sep 13, 2015

j.janke said:
I will call he anyways but I may be better off dealing with a Canadian dealer if possible. Thanks for the tips though i appreciate it! Looking forward to getting this stuff started once i get my sled back from the dealer. Ive had some issues over a large part of last season with it having a low end bog that ruins days. I can get it cleared out but as soon as RPMs lower again it begins to completely load up again and go to what sounds like its on one cylinder. Dealer is having problems pin pointing the issue. Nothing showing on the computer.

What dealer in Edm? The 3 I can think of off the top of my head couldnt orginize a blow job in a whore house!

j.janke · Sep 13, 2015

fast8seccamaro said:
What dealer in Edm? The 3 I can think of off the top of my head couldnt orginize a blow job in a whore house!

None of the ones in Edmonton... All 4 are garbage. House of thunder in camrose.

CO 2.0 · Sep 14, 2015

j.janke said:
I will call he anyways but I may be better off dealing with a Canadian dealer if possible. Thanks for the tips though i appreciate it! Looking forward to getting this stuff started once i get my sled back from the dealer. Ive had some issues over a large part of last season with it having a low end bog that ruins days. I can get it cleared out but as soon as RPMs lower again it begins to completely load up again and go to what sounds like its on one cylinder. Dealer is having problems pin pointing the issue. Nothing showing on the computer.

Have him hook it up to the Cat program on the computer and re-calibrate the throttle position sensor. Located next to the throttle body's (not the throttle safety switch on the handlebars)

j.janke · Sep 14, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Have him hook it up to the Cat program on the computer and re-calibrate the throttle position sensor. Located next to the throttle body's (not the throttle safety switch on the handlebars)

I spoke with him the other day and he said he had it on the computer and nothing was diagnosed. I believe he said the TPS was good. Ive been trying to do some research and ive heard so many things it could be from TPS, stuck roller on clutch, crack reed petal, poor oil pump or fuel pump, Power valves not opening up properly. Its a mystery and its tough cause the dealer is trying not to rack up a tone of hour on the sled to prevent a massive bill. I just hope it can be something that can be warranty work. Fingers crossed!

CO 2.0 · Sep 14, 2015

Take the smart valves out of the fuel tank and see if they are collapsed. I took mine apart and pulled the springs on the smart valves out a tiny bit so they wouldn't collapse. I'd make sure he actually checked the TPS calibration and didn't just check for fault codes.

Stuck roller and power valves you can check yourself with any basic mech skills. Push in on your primary clutch and spin each roller with your finger. If any feel different from each other or not smooth then there is an issue. One of the clutch weights will also show wear in the middle if that's the case. Power valves just rotate the servo motor a bit to put slack on the cable. then pull down to unseat it and work the cable out of the servo housing. Pull on the cable ends and make sure they valve is moving free in the motor. Then with no slack in the cable measure the length of exposed cable. Both should be 35mm. The powervalves in the motor can be taken out with a 10mm socket. I use a new razor blade to scrape off built up crud on them. Then wipe them off with a towel and brake cleaner. Along with wiping all surfaces and gaskets clean. Then reinstall. Bolts don't need much torque.

j.janke · Sep 14, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Take the smart valves out of the fuel tank and see if they are collapsed. I took mine apart and pulled the springs on the smart valves out a tiny bit so they wouldn't collapse. I'd make sure he actually checked the TPS calibration and didn't just check for fault codes.

Stuck roller and power valves you can check yourself with any basic mech skills. Push in on your primary clutch and spin each roller with your finger. If any feel different from each other or not smooth then there is an issue. One of the clutch weights will also show wear in the middle if that's the case. Power valves just rotate the servo motor a bit to put slack on the cable. then pull down to unseat it and work the cable out of the servo housing. Pull on the cable ends and make sure they valve is moving free in the motor. Then with no slack in the cable measure the length of exposed cable. Both should be 35mm. The powervalves in the motor can be taken out with a 10mm socket. I use a new razor blade to scrape off built up crud on them. Then wipe them off with a towel and brake cleaner. Along with wiping all surfaces and gaskets clean. Then reinstall. Bolts don't need much torque.

I am usually quite handy and can figure out things as I go but hearing smart valves sounds like a bunch of jiberish to me. I may try to arrange with him that I can come to the shop and take a look at it myself, its about 30 min away from home so it may be worth me trying to go in to work on it to avoid some extra labour work. Have you heard of any other things it could potentially be C.0? I know its tough to diagnose a bog since so many things could cause bogging.

leadfoot33 · Sep 14, 2015

how many mileson the sled? maybe reeds?

oh also my vote is front end simply because i havent had the issue with jackshaft and what not. good luck

j.janke · Sep 14, 2015

leadfoot33 said:
how many mileson the sled? maybe reeds?

oh also my vote is front end simply because i havent had the issue with jackshaft and what not. good luck

Around 900 miles. Not sure 100 percent because some people have broken them. And slot haven't. I've heard from dealers that the 14 jackshaft is better than the 12/13's and haven't seen many break.

madmax · Sep 14, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Call michelle at oregon trail sports on Tuesday. She will set you up and get you the best deal

Are they still selling OEM cat parts?

CO 2.0 · Sep 14, 2015

Yes still selling OEM Cat parts

ailll1 · Oct 6, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Take the smart valves out of the fuel tank and see if they are collapsed. I took mine apart and pulled the springs on the smart valves out a tiny bit so they wouldn't collapse. I'd make sure he actually checked the TPS calibration and didn't just check for fault codes.

Stuck roller and power valves you can check yourself with any basic mech skills. Push in on your primary clutch and spin each roller with your finger. If any feel different from each other or not smooth then there is an issue. One of the clutch weights will also show wear in the middle if that's the case. Power valves just rotate the servo motor a bit to put slack on the cable. then pull down to unseat it and work the cable out of the servo housing. Pull on the cable ends and make sure they valve is moving free in the motor. Then with no slack in the cable measure the length of exposed cable. Both should be 35mm. The powervalves in the motor can be taken out with a 10mm socket. I use a new razor blade to scrape off built up crud on them. Then wipe them off with a towel and brake cleaner. Along with wiping all surfaces and gaskets clean. Then reinstall. Bolts don't need much torque.

Someone at work told me about checking these valves springs but I never really investigate. Do you have more information about these? Scheme, pictures? I would really want to try as it sounds like an easy fix.

I do have a rich low end bog (sputter).

2016 Front End or 2016 Clutching/Jackshaft/gears

2016 Front End or Clutching/Jackshaft/Gears

2016 Front End

2016 Clutching/Jackshaft/Gears

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