G4 side hill setup

CHAOS RACING · Apr 12, 2019

How are you guys setting up these G4 sleds for side hill tree riding? 19 Freeride 154 I love the sled but it always wants to turn up hill? I'm changing to a short riser as I'm only 5'6" any other suggestions.... Will taking the limiter strap in a hole help with this?

JH@CM · Apr 12, 2019

I've found that foot position fore and aft on the running board is critical to this element of how the gen 4 side hills.

If your foot is further forward, the sled will tend to turn up hill. Further back, it's more likely to lose edge and turn down hill.

Try experimenting with your foot position. Even a couple inches forward or back can make a big difference, especially on the 154". That's the free solution.

Everything else involves shocks, t-motion lockout, spindles, bar height, etc. Are you running your limiter strap in stock position?

Big10inch · Apr 12, 2019

You will always struggle to sidehill that machine. I have definitely seen it done but it is a very difficult sled to sidehill consistently with. The t-motion and flex edge track conspire to wash you out, both need to go...

Norona · Apr 12, 2019

Suck up the limiter strap by one or two and stiffen up the rear suspension, it will sidehill way better but will not carve as nice. Or you can purchase the limiter strap adjust so you can have it out on the trail and deep days and in when your climbing and sidehilling. and foot position and body position is important too, the new spindles will be a huge help too available next fall. Yes to the 4.7 riser. I would personally no delete the t-motion, it does help in a few places but mostly on dust on crust, in many other ways it helps. It also loads the skid and put strain on parts, get the 2020 spindles instead.

idahoskiguy · Apr 12, 2019

Big10inch said:
You will always struggle to sidehill that machine. I have definitely seen it done but it is a very difficult sled to sidehill consistently with. The t-motion and flex edge track conspire to wash you out, both need to go...

FAKE NEWS!

The t-motion and flex edge track are a benefit not an impediment when it comes to side hilling. The Gen 4 is the easiest sled to side hill that we have in the fleet once you have the technique, which is much different than the RMK PRO I also ride.

Side hilling a Gen 4 requires a unique technique but once mastered pays a big reward with not as much effort required to side hill than other sleds.

Just my real world experience. :face-icon-small-coo

Teth-Air · Apr 12, 2019

idahoskiguy said:
FAKE NEWS!

The t-motion and flex edge track are a benefit not an impediment when it comes to side hilling. The Gen 4 is the easiest sled to side hill that we have in the fleet once you have the technique, which is much different than the RMK PRO I also ride.

Side hilling a Gen 4 requires a unique technique but once mastered pays a big reward with not as much effort required to side hill than other sleds.

Just my real world experience. :face-icon-small-coo

To each their own. I know what chassis gives me the most confidence and it certainly is no Doo.

CHAOS RACING · Apr 12, 2019

Thanks for the input fellas! I'll make some changes to the sled and my riding position and give it another go. I'm thinking if the spindles and rubbers are reasonable $$ I might try them as well. As for the adjustable strap I'll try taking it in and if it's better I'll probably put that on there too.

Unstuckable · Apr 12, 2019

I’ve never had any problems sidehilling my gen 4 nor has the rest of my friends riding them. To me there easier to sidehill then an poo but I’m used to the gen 4 and how it rides

Wheel House Motorsports · Apr 12, 2019

Limiter up, gripper skis, t-motion delete, stiffen rear springs, your starting to head the right direction.

The sleds are just not designed to hold a super tight hard edge. Those things will help you and get you a lot closer to where you want to go.

Unstuckable · Apr 12, 2019

Wheel House Motorsports said:
Limiter up, gripper skis, t-motion delete, stiffen rear springs, your starting to head the right direction.

The sleds are just not designed to hold a super tight hard edge. Those things will help you and get you a lot closer to where you want to go.

must be a Polaris dealer

BIG JOHN · Apr 12, 2019

unhook sway bar...
compression- start at 10 +- as needed...
rebound- start at 15-16 clicks from soft (keeps shock compressed while side hilling)...
stay forward on boards...
limiter UP 1...
compression on 1-5 (soft)
rear on 3...
compresion on 10 +- as needed
short riser...
stop stabbing the throttle, drive smooth...
SHR clutching helps-BJ

DITCHBANGER · Apr 12, 2019

limit up one from stock, rear springs on 5. and being 5-6" get a small riser

CHAOS RACING · Apr 12, 2019

Thanks for all the responses... I'll definitely implement these changes before the next trip!

NHRoadking · Apr 12, 2019

For me:

Limiter strap tightened up one notch.

Upgraded SP shocks to revolved X shocks.

Torsion springs on 3rd setting.

Skis centered with Durapro ski dampers.

Front shocks and center shock set soft.

snowmanx · Apr 13, 2019

Unstuckable said:
I’ve never had any problems sidehilling my gen 4 nor has the rest of my friends riding them. To me there easier to sidehill then an poo but I’m used to the gen 4 and how it rides

I'm with you. I hear guys have issues sidehilling and I for the life of me can't figure out why? Easiest sled I've ever owned to side hill and has allowed me to do things I wouldn't consider on previous sleds.

Foot position is criitical, but I have found foot more forward in steep conditions, contrary to above post.

And what big John said, smooth throttle for sure, jam ad it will go up.

ziggity · Apr 13, 2019

I have found running my back torsion springs stiff does keep the sled flatter and more predictable but is horrible when you try to carve the sled. I usually run mine on 2, front shocks soft no swaybar and middle spring fairly soft and haven’t really had any problems with sidehilling. This is also on more setup snow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

winter brew · Apr 13, 2019

Wheel House Motorsports said:
Limiter up, gripper skis, t-motion delete, stiffen rear springs, your starting to head the right direction.

The sleds are just not designed to hold a super tight hard edge. Those things will help you and get you a lot closer to where you want to go.

Grippers helped on my XM which suffers from the same washout that most guys find on the Doo's. Can usually find a used set for cheap and they use the Doo rubbers.

jfrankiw · Apr 13, 2019

winter brew said:
Grippers helped on my XM which suffers from the same washout that most guys find on the Doo's. Can usually find a used set for cheap and they use the Doo rubbers.

This here is FALSE information. the gripper skis do not use the skidoo rubbers. I listened to these guys and almost lost my life because if it. If you are going to run a gripper ski on a skidoo durapro makes a bushing specifically for this application. Do it the rite way or you run the risk of possible injusty due to bushing failure.

Pzilly · Apr 14, 2019

CHAOS RACING said:
Thanks for the input fellas! I'll make some changes to the sled and my riding position and give it another go. I'm thinking if the spindles and rubbers are reasonable $$ I might try them as well. As for the adjustable strap I'll try taking it in and if it's better I'll probably put that on there too.

I installed my durapro rubbers this weekend, I wasn't expecting much of a benefit, but they did make a decent difference and well worth the 69 or 79 bucks. My ride this weekend was awesome, but I also added a sledhead racing clutch kit and full Jaws exhaust with mountain quiet can and while the the exhaust had no effect on side hilling the rubbers and clutch surely did, I am an intermediate back country guy but with the changes in the clutch being more engaged and the stiffer ski rubbers I was making down hill hair pin cuts back up and side hills and slower more controlled side hills much easier then 2 weeks ago.

In my quest to become better at controlled side hilling I have found that these items have helped quite a bit.

1. Proper suspension set up
2. Proper foot placement and throttle/brake control
3. BJs clutch kit
4. Removable snow flap ( made quite a difference not rechurning snow, plus reversing is much easier both off trailer and when in the trees)
5. My quick adjust limiter strap
6. Sway bar quick disconnect
7. Durapro rubbers

I was actually going to spring check a new summit expert, but after this weekend I am so happy with the improvements the exhaust (full exhaust, not just a can) clutch kit and rubbers along with the previous installed quick adjust strap im taking Noronas advice and keeping my sled another year and grabbing the 2020 spindles, and leaving the T motion alone (it moves 2-3 degrees, have you seen the new alpha? Maybe I'm wrong but 2-3 degrees isnt near that design???), after grabbing the spindles the only thing the new sled would give me would be the shorter tunnel, and I'm concerned about packed snow days and cooling????

If you need a clutch kit or other parts or advice call John at SHR, his advice for me has been spot on, and customer service has been amazing, got me exactly what I needed and made several calls to vendors to meet my short timeline....THANKS BJ!!!!!

Just my .02 but my sled ripped this weekend.

winter brew · Apr 15, 2019

jfrankiw said:
This here is FALSE information. the gripper skis do not use the skidoo rubbers. I listened to these guys and almost lost my life because if it. If you are going to run a gripper ski on a skidoo durapro makes a bushing specifically for this application. Do it the rite way or you run the risk of possible injusty due to bushing failure.

They fail on the stock Doo skis as well. It's not the ski it's the rubber.
Running the ski centered helps regardless of ski. For me, they lasted longer on the Grippers than the DS3's.

G4 side hill setup

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