Running Silbers at 7lbs, 165 3in, I weigh 225 ready to ride.
Rear skid setup on 7lbs
- Thread starter 880summitxrs
- Start date
J
Guessing stock suspension?
Its pretty overwhelmed with the Silber setup at 7 psi. At minimum crank the torsion bar all the way down (5 setting), suck the limiter up one hole and see where that puts you.
I am running aftermarket Fox stuff. Valved fairly stiff. Its better but even at 5psi I can't even see over the nose of the sled 1/2 the time.
Will be going to a Tom's kit for just this reason.
I'd also consider some stiffer torsion bars if I didn't have the means for the Tom's kit...
Its pretty overwhelmed with the Silber setup at 7 psi. At minimum crank the torsion bar all the way down (5 setting), suck the limiter up one hole and see where that puts you.
I am running aftermarket Fox stuff. Valved fairly stiff. Its better but even at 5psi I can't even see over the nose of the sled 1/2 the time.
Will be going to a Tom's kit for just this reason.
I'd also consider some stiffer torsion bars if I didn't have the means for the Tom's kit...
Yes all stock, tried sucking up the limiter and torsion spring at 3. Also front shock spring is right in the middle. This did help with keeping front down bUT now trenches pretty bad even from being stopped on level ground. I don't get.
Can a guy suck up the limiter to far and make it handle this way?
Short of a aftermarket skid, maybe experiment with HD springs or the Zbros coupling blocks.
Limiter sucked up will help some with keeping the nose down, but makes the handling a little tougher when not going uphill.
Limiter sucked up will help some with keeping the nose down, but makes the handling a little tougher when not going uphill.
That is exactly what I found but think I went way to far with limiter strap. Gonna try and let it back out and tighten rear torsion spring all the way and take some pressure off of front spring also. Just trying to keep the front down and not trench lol.
I hate sucking the limiter up. Losing what holds you on the hill. Rasmussen has the same philosophy as I do. His stuff is a little pricey but at the least, go to his site and read his ideas on suspension.
Contrary to the beliefs of many...Valving has very little to do with ski lift on a climb...It DOES change the rate at which they lift... but not the end result...
Spring force on the rear track has more to do with this... as does lowering front skid travel with sucking up the limiter strap... but then you are also modding the character of the skid and going to have a harsher, less compliant ride in the technical stuff where you may need compliance to keep you from loosing your sled... It's a balancing game.
The SPG ARC system can help with this and not give you the harsh ride.
Or... a complete K Mod suspension....
my 2¢
.
Spring force on the rear track has more to do with this... as does lowering front skid travel with sucking up the limiter strap... but then you are also modding the character of the skid and going to have a harsher, less compliant ride in the technical stuff where you may need compliance to keep you from loosing your sled... It's a balancing game.
The SPG ARC system can help with this and not give you the harsh ride.
Or... a complete K Mod suspension....
my 2¢
.
Let limiter out 1 hole from stock, torsion spring on 5 and just enough pressure on the front spring to keep it from rattling it helped a great deal. I am coming to conclusion that I'm gonna need some aftermarket rear skid updates especially if I continue to run 7lbs of boost. P.S. I'm addicted to this boost gig!
Huh?
Don't you want to tighten the limiter straps to keep the front down? Not loosen them!
Don't you want to tighten the limiter straps to keep the front down? Not loosen them!
Poligize
I see you tried that. My mistoque.
I see you tried that. My mistoque.
O
I know not cheap and why do you ave to spend xtra cash on after market but they do work, and its simple K-MOD.
J
Also consider a Tom's setup. Just having an air adjustable rear shock is massively helpful. You can actually adjust the spring *rate*, not just the preload (which is only adjusting the spring force where that rate begins).
Also, adding low speed compression damping does help further control the rate of transfer, which can be massively helpful getting the sled "on the snow" or in heavy off/on throttle situations. (skis lift slower)
Also, adding low speed compression damping does help further control the rate of transfer, which can be massively helpful getting the sled "on the snow" or in heavy off/on throttle situations. (skis lift slower)
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