O
The one with the lock nut, and yes you can get to it from the front with a 8mm socket and wobble joint.
Oil pump adjustment.... revisited
- Thread starter Oregonsledder
- Start date
The one with the lock nut, and yes you can get to it from the front with a 8mm socket and wobble joint.
P
imo, the best thing to do is to calculate your ratio and decide if you feel it needs to be adjusted. you will want to do this over multiple rides due the progressive oil pump.
pv
PV, I add oil to the tank only because the injectors are spraying right at the intake side of the piston(which can wash off the oil), so to me its worth doing..I have never oil fouled a plug yet and chambers(and p-valves) seem to get no dirtyer then normal...
hey...until you post pics of a new pro sitting in your garage..you can only read pro threads......BWAHAHA..........
SHUT IT!!!!
G
What kind of oil do you use (since we are talking about feeding a 2 strk. and how much to put in and what it does after it goes in)?
One thing is repeated, oil ratio. Many want to know how many turns on the adjuster. There should be as many different # of turns as there are oils out there if Poo has asked for a certain flow rate, at a certain rpm, with the oil Poo specs, to meet EPA specs.
Do all oils have the same viscosity? Do all oils flow or pool the same after entering the engine? Deep eh lol!
Does Shell Ultra flow the same as Poo Gold? Through the pump or through the engine?
You really have to do the math yourself. Even then you need to know what your oil is doing after it leaves the pump. That takes a few tear downs. That is the reason for so many different oils and opinion of oils and their ratios.
One thing is constant though, when a tuner or builder finds a combo of oil ratio and type of oil they see keeps there builds healthy they stick to it for years and recommend it to all. Trust that.
MH, How much flow is a Poo oil pump capable of at wide open at a specific rpm? Does it ever "limit out"? Say the engine was a 1100. Would the pump be able to keep up with the ratio of extra fuel without premix?
I like to burn oil lol. What is the ratio on the stock Pro with the pump wired wide open.
20 to 1? More?
You have to do your math, on your sled, with your oil
One thing is repeated, oil ratio. Many want to know how many turns on the adjuster. There should be as many different # of turns as there are oils out there if Poo has asked for a certain flow rate, at a certain rpm, with the oil Poo specs, to meet EPA specs.
Do all oils have the same viscosity? Do all oils flow or pool the same after entering the engine? Deep eh lol!
Does Shell Ultra flow the same as Poo Gold? Through the pump or through the engine?
You really have to do the math yourself. Even then you need to know what your oil is doing after it leaves the pump. That takes a few tear downs. That is the reason for so many different oils and opinion of oils and their ratios.
One thing is constant though, when a tuner or builder finds a combo of oil ratio and type of oil they see keeps there builds healthy they stick to it for years and recommend it to all. Trust that.
MH, How much flow is a Poo oil pump capable of at wide open at a specific rpm? Does it ever "limit out"? Say the engine was a 1100. Would the pump be able to keep up with the ratio of extra fuel without premix?
I like to burn oil lol. What is the ratio on the stock Pro with the pump wired wide open.
20 to 1? More?
You have to do your math, on your sled, with your oil
Wired wide open is probably real close to 10 to 1.
or maybe 5:1..they can burn alot.........
G
Good to know. No premix for me.
E
Approx how many turns on the adjustment to achieve 32:1? 3 or 4?
every sled is different..there is no this many turns to get this useage..you just have to adjust , go ride and monitor what its using..
you just have the dealer do it before you pick it up....
P
i wasn't trying to say this was bad or not to do it. in fact probably the better reason i have heard to premix. (much better than most, for sure) i just don't do it myself. decidedly doesn't mean i am right.
i'm either too lazy or not worried about it enough to bother. or both...pv
S
The way I see it, is when I go get my 13 from the dealer they should adjust everything to the factory settings. I will run the oil that they recommend. That way, if there are ever any issues, they are responable for it. I won't even mention to them about the oil adjustment. That should be done at the PDI by a factory trained tech and not me.
I don't know how many other people feel this way, but this is how it should be. For the amount of money I am spending on their product, it should be setup properly from them. If not, its all on their dime.
I don't know how many other people feel this way, but this is how it should be. For the amount of money I am spending on their product, it should be setup properly from them. If not, its all on their dime.
I agree with you 100%. I'm not going to touch it and give them a reason to deny my claim if something does happen.:usa2:
O
I think that's a reasonable approach if you plan to only keep the sled for the length of the warranty. If you really want long term performance then you need to address the issue. My last 800 Polaris now has very close to 7000 miles on the original engine and it was burning WAY more oil than the factory setting on the 11, 12 or 13 PRO’s.
I feel that the EPA has now forced the manufactures to reduce emissions and if they want to be able to ship sleds, then they need to reduce emissions to comply.
I think this lower oil and gas consumption will be a factor in long term engine life. You can get a 4 year warranty, but as far I know you can’t get an extension beyond that. That might tell you that after 4 years, the factory is not willing to take on the risk.
I have never had a serious engine failure and I’m convinced that with good maintenance and proper engine lubrication you can get many years of reliable performance.
By the way, I have never heard of a dealer who has said that turning up the pump or running oil in the gas will void the warranty.
Your call.
Id rather turn up the oiler or add oil to the gas however you choose and ride a trouble free season. Winters are too short to have my sled down for warranty work.
P
you might be technically correct but that is a rather suborn attitude. kinda rollin the dice in my opinion. why risk your winter just to prove you're right when some extremely simple preventative maintenance that in no way could possibly void your warranty might prevent it? especially, saying you won't even mention it to your dealer or ask if they can at least check that it is set right? that makes no sense at all unless you are trying to be difficult or desperately need a new dealer. good luck
pv
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