Would you buy a 14’ Pro?

sledhed · Apr 25, 2019

Check where the hoses run from that filter dohickey, I suspect they go to the VES valves, that he was trying to catch the oily discharge from the VES exhaust valve selenoid instead of letting it go down into the bulkhead under the engine. The little air filter thing on top is to let the air escape since the exhaust valve bypass selenoid allows some dirty oily air to escape...

I don't like the crease in the side of the tunnel, but I have seen that before and as long as the tunnel is straight overall (looking down the sides and the coolers for any twist) it could be straightened out and you would be good, I would simply add an aftermarket bumper that strengthens that area even the polaris ultimate or extreme bumper should do it but there are others out there that run further down the side of the tunnel.

That track looks a bit ragged on the edge. As long as there is no damage beyond that, it appears to be mainly cosmetic to me. You can trim the threads hanging off the side or some people hit them with a torch to singe them back. I have not done that personally and would be careful with the heat. Since it will be in at the dealers anyway, I would ask them for an opinion on the tunnel and track too. Why not get their input since it is already in there and it should be no extra cost to give the tunnel and track a quick once-over.

I would also check the front of the tunnel in the footwell area to make sure there are no wrinkles or bulges... the Pro can show damage in those areas from a hit that does not even take out an a-arm and once wrinkled it is difficult to repair. Google the FTX tunnel reinforcement kit and look for matches on snowest forums, there is lots of info on there what to look for.

Griff · Apr 25, 2019

No concerns with the track.

Would like an explanation for the bends in the tunnel. Check the front of the tunnel where it is fused to the bulkhead for bends.

Would want a full explanation of the contraption with the filter or breather.

Would be leary of a sled with 2 owners in 700 miles.

bowhunter11199 · Apr 25, 2019

sledhed said:
Check where the hoses run from that filter dohickey, I suspect they go to the VES valves, that he was trying to catch the oily discharge from the VES exhaust valve selenoid instead of letting it go down into the bulkhead under the engine. The little air filter thing on top is to let the air escape since the exhaust valve bypass selenoid allows some dirty oily air to escape...

I don't like the crease in the side of the tunnel, but I have seen that before and as long as the tunnel is straight overall (looking down the sides and the coolers for any twist) it could be straightened out and you would be good, I would simply add an aftermarket bumper that strengthens that area even the polaris ultimate or extreme bumper should do it but there are others out there that run further down the side of the tunnel.

That track looks a bit ragged on the edge. As long as there is no damage beyond that, it appears to be mainly cosmetic to me. You can trim the threads hanging off the side or some people hit them with a torch to singe them back. I have not done that personally and would be careful with the heat. Since it will be in at the dealers anyway, I would ask them for an opinion on the tunnel and track too. Why not get their input since it is already in there and it should be no extra cost to give the tunnel and track a quick once-over.

I would also check the front of the tunnel in the footwell area to make sure there are no wrinkles or bulges... the Pro can show damage in those areas from a hit that does not even take out an a-arm and once wrinkled it is difficult to repair. Google the FTX tunnel reinforcement kit and look for matches on snowest forums, there is lots of info on there what to look for.

Thanks for the info!

Good call on the filter, that makes much more sense. Often times guys do that on trucks. That seems like another fail point to me, would you recommend removing it?

There are a few chips taken out of the tracks on the side near those frays. No damage to the lugs or main potion of the tracks.

I looked down the tunnel and it looked straight. I’ll be sure to check the foot wells.

05rmksteve · Apr 25, 2019

The frays are very common on Polaris tracks. I burn them off with a torch. Straighten the lip on the tunnel and install a b&m fab bumper or a brand that has the same lip bent in it. Definitely check the tunnel in the footwell area. Not sure on the filter thing without seeing where the hoses go. Looks like a good buy for $4000.00.

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05rmksteve · Apr 25, 2019

The filter thing does look like the ves hose is ran to it and the hose on the side looks like it's a fill gauge.

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bowhunter11199 · Apr 26, 2019

05rmksteve said:
The filter thing does look like the ves hose is ran to it and the hose on the side looks like it's a fill gauge.

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Thanks for the info, I’m thinking the same thing. I’ll have to see if I can open it up to see how much blow by containment’s are in there next time I look at the sled. Very interesting how there is the long brass looking tube... almost like it was a custom job or a kit that was meant for a Polaris Pro sled

summ8rmk · Apr 26, 2019

That "filter" has electricity.........is it a oil pump for the turbo? Why is the pipe wrapped with header wrap?

Polaris

bowhunter11199 · Apr 26, 2019

summ8rmk said:
That "filter" has electricity.........is it a oil pump for the turbo? Why is the pipe wrapped with header wrap?

Polaris

If it’s a blow back catch can filter, how does it have electricity? And is that bad..?

The sled is not turbo-ed. Good catch on the wrap in the picture I asked him yesterday about the wrap and he said that was already on the sled when he bought it at 100 miles. I did some research and it seems that some people think wrapping the pipe can aid in performance (keep the pipe hotter) and keep the engine bay slightly cooler

summ8rmk · Apr 26, 2019

bowhunter11199 said:
If it’s a blow back catch can filter, how does it have electricity? And is that bad..?

The sled is not turbo-ed. Good catch on the wrap in the picture I asked him yesterday about the wrap and he said that was already on the sled when he bought it at 100 miles. I did some research and it seems that some people think wrapping the pipe can aid in performance (keep the pipe hotter) and keep the engine bay slightly cooler

It looks like it has wires going in to the bottom of the device. Maybe im wrong?
Maybe they just pass underneath ?

Polaris

bowhunter11199 · Apr 26, 2019

summ8rmk said:
It looks like it has wires going in to the bottom of the device. Maybe im wrong?
Maybe they just pass underneath ?

Polaris

Good call! I will be sure to double check that today. I’m thinking the wires by pass underneath but will double check.

I’m getting slightly concerned the more I think about the track.. fraying doesn’t bother me, just few chips/small chunks in the side of the track. This is the best pic I have

summ8rmk · Apr 26, 2019

bowhunter11199 said:
Good call! I will be sure to double check that today. I’m thinking the wires by pass underneath but will double check.

I’m getting slightly concerned the more I think about the track.. fraying doesn’t bother me, just few chips/small chunks in the side of the track. This is the best pic I have

Only concern about that track is, what is it hitting? Why is it hitting it?
The 'damage ' on the track is nothing to worry about. Fraying is normal.

Polaris

bowhunter11199 · Apr 26, 2019

summ8rmk said:
Only concern about that track is, what is it hitting? Why is it hitting it?
The 'damage ' on the track is nothing to worry about. Fraying is normal.

Polaris

Owner said he thinks the chips on the side of the track is from side hilling. The chips on the side aren’t all over the side of the track, just in a few spots. Rest of tracked looked good but owner did say there was one missing lug somewhere.

Shop won’t be able to look at it till late next week. I’m going to meet the owner up in the mountains to take the sled for a mile or two ride to make sure it drives/rides well, doesn’t over heat and verify the clutching is good.

I’ll be sure to take more/better picture today and post them up. Thanks for all your guys help! It is really appreciated

05rmksteve · Apr 26, 2019

The wires that go under that filter/reservoir go to the voltage regulator.

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sledhed · Apr 26, 2019

bowhunter11199 said:
Owner said he thinks the chips on the side of the track is from side hilling. The chips on the side aren’t all over the side of the track, just in a few spots. Rest of tracked looked good but owner did say there was one missing lug somewhere.

Shop won’t be able to look at it till late next week. I’m going to meet the owner up in the mountains to take the sled for a mile or two ride to make sure it drives/rides well, doesn’t over heat and verify the clutching is good.

I’ll be sure to take more/better picture today and post them up. Thanks for all your guys help! It is really appreciated

You won't get track damage from sidehilling unless you sidehill across a rocky slope with no snow... I have sidehilled every sled I have owned since my gen2 and never seen that. But better pictures would be good. In any case as long as the track is usable and structurally sound, I would not be very concerned, tracks (especially Polaris OEM tracks) are kind of a wear item like tires on a car any more... they wear out and you replace them... sad but true.

flying frenchman · Apr 28, 2019

A sled with 700 miles should be like new.
There was never a problem from under hood head from the pipe.
This sled shouldn't have that do hicky thing as it doesn't make that
big of a mess.Header wrap is no good and not needed plus as
it get old and loose you be inhaling that dust it releases.

bowhunter11199 · Apr 29, 2019

UPDATE

Polaris shop was able to fix a few things on the sled and test compression. So with 700 miles the sled has 105 per cylinder. Sled was tested at 4,447’ elevation. I’m trying to stop by and look at the sled today to get more picture

What your guys thoughts on the 105 psi compression? Using some basic math, that comes up with about 119 psi at sea level...

sledhed · Apr 29, 2019

Really depends on gauge... and whether sled was warm or cold... a leak-down test would be a better indicator if they can do that for you as well. If it is too late, as a baseline it would be good to know what a just-broken-in sled shows on the same gauge and at same elevation... I would not run away from 105.

Ever figure out what that strange canister is? And yeah, no header wrap needed on these sleds, it will just induce rust and particulate floating around in the engine compartment as it disintegrates from vibration.

05rmksteve · Apr 29, 2019

120-125 is standard compression on a cfi 800 motor. X2 on a leak down test. A leak down test will tell you how well the rings are sealing. From what I was just told by a dealer is that Polaris wont rebuild a topend under warranty until the leak down is above 10%. I found this out because my axys is 10% on mag side and 4% on PTO and the compression is 118 and 120.

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bowhunter11199 · Apr 29, 2019

sledhed said:
Really depends on gauge... and whether sled was warm or cold... a leak-down test would be a better indicator if they can do that for you as well. If it is too late, as a baseline it would be good to know what a just-broken-in sled shows on the same gauge and at same elevation... I would not run away from 105.

Ever figure out what that strange canister is? And yeah, no header wrap needed on these sleds, it will just induce rust and particulate floating around in the engine compartment as it disintegrates from vibration.

I’m trying to talk to the tech that worked on it but he’s hard to track down... from what I saw and read it’s a blow by oil catch cylinder. Sled is already back at the owners house

sledhed · Apr 29, 2019

05rmksteve said:
120-125 is standard compression on a cfi 800 motor. X2 on a leak down test. A leak down test will tell you how well the rings are sealing. From what I was just told by a dealer is that Polaris wont rebuild a topend under warranty until the leak down is above 10%. I found this out because my axys is 10% on mag side and 4% on PTO and the compression is 118 and 120.

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Again depends on gauge and elevation. I believe the Axys is higher compression as it is an HO motor, so port timing etc. differ from the Pro, so going to get a higher reading on the Axys and at a lower elevation (MN?). I should throw my gauge onto my recently purchased Axys to get a baseline...

Would you buy a 14’ Pro?

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