Impulse XM Turbo

hobbes · Aug 20, 2015

Due to the angle of the turbo when mounted like that you can/will get some oil dripping. Unless it is "running" out of your exhaust when the sled is started, keep your oil full in the reservoir and run it. Mine always dripped some oil when it sat for awhile too, and a little oil pushed by exhaust looks like alot.

fredw · Sep 6, 2015

What changes to the kits this year Zeb..

XP860 · Sep 6, 2015

fredw said:
What changes to the kits this year Zeb..

Talked with Paul last week. No changes to the XM kit. Just the latest flash that you already got in late spring.

fredw · Sep 6, 2015

Another vid of after latest Eco tune and toms arms added at 7 lbs..this is done with stock skid..

http://youtu.be/9SQdRLzL77Y

sledsrock · Sep 6, 2015

fredw said:
Another vid of after latest Eco tune and toms arms added at 7 lbs..this is done with stock skid..

http://youtu.be/9SQdRLzL77Y

Nice pull Fred!!

zebiraross · Sep 8, 2015

Same kit for the 16

skibumm · Sep 8, 2015

zebiraross said:
Same kit for the 16

So what you are saying is that it is gonna rock!!??:face-icon-small-win:hippie::clap2::music::drum::first:

fredw · Sep 10, 2015

Question as per boost..

If one has proper fuel, is there a maximum amount of boost one should not go over with this turbo.. And by turning up boost controller to max can you hurt or go over the max boost at sea level elevation ??, or is there a protection built in?

Another thing I seen was at 12000 feet I maxed out at 9lbs boost, is that the max for that turbo, or is there more left in it

Is there a yearly service needed for the turbo on this kit, oil change ect??

Thanks

zebiraross · Sep 15, 2015

The turbo has a 3.5 P/R at 12k ft. In other words it has the ability to be 70% efficient at 12k ft at 20 psi. I don't know if people realize how impressive that is. ..

The wastegate spring included will probably limit you to about 10-11 psi at high elevation. If you want more boost you need a stiffer wastegate spring. However, if you do that you probably won't be able to run lower boost (5-6 psi) as the stiffer spring will prevent you from running low boost.

fredw · Sep 16, 2015

I had always been told to not exceed a 2.5 to 1 p/r for the sake of breaking the turbine shaft.. Is this turbo different?? Any maps for this turbo we can see??

Little more info on p/r and maps
http://www.jdmlegion.com/KnowledgeB...lanation-f4ded396-eaa0-4d36-8fe3-19863f7bccc1

hobbes · Sep 16, 2015

Garrett GTX2860R performance data

zebiraross · Sep 16, 2015

fredw said:
I had always been told to not exceed a 2.5 to 1 p/r for the sake of breaking the turbine shaft.. Is this turbo different?? Any maps for this turbo we can see??

Little more info on p/r and maps
http://www.jdmlegion.com/KnowledgeB...lanation-f4ded396-eaa0-4d36-8fe3-19863f7bccc1

I was referring to the compressr map of the turbo.

Dynamo^Joe · Oct 19, 2015

fredw said:
Backcountry..

From discussing this with DJ my understating is the goal is to keep belt running to approx 3/4 of a inch of the top of the primary, witch gives a 1 to 1 ratio and our lowest belt temps..

Currently with the stock setup big pin weight and stock gearing I am running to the very top of the primary, have you looked how high your running up the primary with that big of gearing.. I was only thinking two teeth, not four

Will stock chain work or will we need to replace it with longer one.. Thanks

Fred - Need more data. What is your track speed when pushing the belt to the rim of the primary clutch? When we talked on the phone you said your track speed was less than your theoretical maximum speed and I went through this example below. (when people talk clutching to me on the phone they should be recording it)

Fred)I am running to the very top of the primary
Joe) what is the theoretical mph supposed to be at the rim of the primary in full overdrive?

example - If the sled is geared to go 90mph at full shift overdrive or where you say the belt is near or at the rim...but (there's that word "but")
..but your track speed is 75mph...

Question - where is that 15mph disappearing to?

Sled geared for 90mph
Belt at rim of primary (90mph)
Actual track speed 75mph

...where did the theoretical 15 mph go?

To capture that missing mph you will have to take the angle of the helix ....at 1:1 clutch ratio and lower it at least 2 degrees.

Say you had something like a 44/40 (44, 43, 42, 41, 40)
5 separate degrees divided into 90mph (full shift) is 18mph per helix angle.
18 mph x 4 degrees = 72mph

At 41 degrees the combination of the helix angle and the secondary spring force being used is not enough to clamp the belt - the secondary sheave is literally blowing open at 75mph. The sheave cannot hang onto the belt anymore and convert your available engine torque.

At 41 degrees you have a choice. Either lower the helix angle at that degree (41) by 2 degrees or
Take the secondary spring finish force and raise it by 30 lbs. Example XXX/300 to a xxx/320 or xxx/330.

Regarding the helix angle you would be having to put in at least a 44/38 or 44/36 to get the secondary to start to grab hard on the belt again and not be overcome and sheaves push full open.

That above was an example of how to figure out how to solve "missing trackspeed" by way of the helix angle or secondary spring or a combination of both.

Dynamo^Joe · Oct 19, 2015

Carp said:
What is the price and what is included with this setup for the impulse clutch kit and what elevations do you have setups for?

The setup is for all elevations. All you will have to do is change the flyweight grams a little bit for the major elevation range differences like say from sea level to 11000.

Here is what I have for parts...
• 200/290 primary spring
• My mountain ramps (415/441 blend)
• 25 gram pin kit
• QR11 helix
• Dalton 225/330 Yellow /orange secondary spring (i asked Dale to make this one for me)

Part that customer supplies
1 set of first oversize roller from Fett Bros or any other supplier.
http://fettbros.com/Clutch-Roller-Ski-doo-1mm-SKR165p.htm

The engine will have a lot of grunt off the bottom end even with a 3” paddle track. Turbo will spool up quicker. Engine speed should not fade in a deep snow pull unless after you heat soak the engine. Engine braking strong.

The intake temperature gets to 170+ degrees pretty quick and more time at full throttle heat soaks the engine. In time you’ll feel the engine change, correct engine speed, power goes down a bit. Everything heating up.
The mountain ramps in combination with the start angle of the helix and start force of the secondary spring will allow you to run correct engine speed and you can run at 8000 rpms too.

The 5 kit parts are $444 CDN ($342 USD Today) and then shipping somewhere around $31ish and can be got from this form.
https://www.ibackshift.com/article/form-121.asp
thanks for asking
joey

Dynamo^Joe · Oct 19, 2015

fredw said:
44 helix
8000rpm
clicker 4
8000 to 9000 feet
72 to 75mph
174"

fredw · Oct 25, 2015

OK thanks joe, so if I'm with you here your saying drop helix a few degrees or add to finish spring pressure to get missing speed closer to max speed at rim?

Might just have to order your kit as well and give it a go this year in comparison.. As your aware of what I should need..

Zeb.. Would I be able to purchase the fueling ecu side of the impulse kit and make it work on my older Aerocharger kit sled.. Might need the wiring harness and such, I want to make it a fully standalone no touch

Dynamo^Joe · Oct 27, 2015

fredw said:
OK thanks joe, so if I'm with you here your saying drop helix a few degrees or add to finish spring pressure to get missing speed closer to max speed at rim?

Might just have to order your kit as well and give it a go this year in comparison.. As your aware of what I should need..

Hi Fred. If you are using a straight 44 and having a bit of slip near the hub inside the secondary, that last little bit - knee jerk reaction for most is to gear up. Me personally, i'd rather not touch all the good stuff that's already happening and just concentrate on the point where having a deficiency.

So yes...Straight 44, then could go for a 44/42 or a 44/40.
OR
If say secondary spring was a 225/303, then can go to a 225/330; bumping up the final force on the secondary spring.

....don't touch the primary as the primary is doing its job, pushing the secondary open. Just losing a little bit of conversion efficiency in the secondary clutch so clean up the secondary clutch.

Prolly don't need anything from me regarding kit wise as you say your sled is going great. Just "trim" off your calibration a little bit to extract that last wee bit out of it. From that point on, IF you find a deficiency, THEN make a change to solve it.

Happy highmarking :face-icon-small-hap
Joey

bmiller1985 · Nov 8, 2015

Thought you guys that run an adjustable riser like me might like to see this, took about an hour to do. Hardest part was making sure to only put holes where I had to. The gauges are easy to see when standing and I no longer will have to worry about pulling lines too tight when I extend my riser

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

yamiman · Nov 8, 2015

bmiller1985 said:
View attachment 259532

Thought you guys that run an adjustable riser like me might like to see this, took about an hour to do. Hardest part was making sure to only put holes where I had to. The gauges are easy to see when standing and I no longer will have to worry about pulling lines too tight when I extend my riser

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

That's a great idea!

bmiller1985 · Nov 8, 2015

I installed the BRP floating secondary and the old helix bolts are the perfect size, so two of those and some careful cutting and so far it's good and should work great. You have to lean ahead a little when standing verticle to see the afr but it's really not bad.

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