Buying a M8000 with higher miles?

bowhunter11199 · May 25, 2019

Have been looking for M8000s with around 1000 miles and I’ve found some for the $4500-$6000 mark. Recently found a 14’ with 2100 miles that I could pick up for the low $3k.

Other than wear items like shocks and bushing, should I be concerned about buying one with 2000+ miles. What compression should I be seeing in the cylinders? Are these M8000s the same 800 motors that were in the 2010-2011 sleds that run 3000-4000 miles before top ends are needed?

My plan is to ride approx 750 miles a year and would keep it for 1-2 years, so not sure how much the sled would be worth in a year or two with 3500 miles or so

snownman · May 26, 2019

M8000...

A '14 for 3k is good. 2000 miles, eng. should be fine but the drive clutch is about at the end of its service life (2500 if your lucky) so plan on a new clutch and lookit over well to check for chassis damage but for that price...

kiliki · May 26, 2019

snownman said:
A '14 for 3k is good. 2000 miles, eng. should be fine but the drive clutch is about at the end of its service life (2500 if your lucky) so plan on a new clutch and lookit over well to check for chassis damage but for that price...

^^^ this.
the top end should be done IMO around 3K to 3500 fresh stock pistons.
the primary at 2k should be changed.
compression one each gauge will be different if I remember some place around 135. you can get a good look at the pistons very easy with the hood off just take the 2x 10 mm bolts holding the power valves in and just pull the valve out. this will give you a good look at the front and top of the piston. look at the piston rings at the locations the edges of the valve would meet some times the do meet when they shouldn't!

bowhunter11199 · May 26, 2019

kiliki said:
^^^ this.
the top end should be done IMO around 3K to 3500 fresh stock pistons.
the primary at 2k should be changed.
compression one each gauge will be different if I remember some place around 135. you can get a good look at the pistons very easy with the hood off just take the 2x 10 mm bolts holding the power valves in and just pull the valve out. this will give you a good look at the front and top of the piston. look at the piston rings at the locations the edges of the valve would meet some times the do meet when they shouldn't!

Owner said he did a compression test and he came up with 130 psi.

I looked into the primary and a new oem one is $350 and a rebuild kit is $190. $350 isn’t bad, I assume changing the primary would be pretty easy?

bowhunter11199 · May 26, 2019

Update from owner, left side is 125pis, right is 130

Big10inch · May 26, 2019

bowhunter11199 said:
Owner said he did a compression test and he came up with 130 psi.

I looked into the primary and a new oem one is $350 and a rebuild kit is $190. $350 isn’t bad, I assume changing the primary would be pretty easy?

You will need special tools to rebuild it, just buy the uncalibrated new one for $350. Then new weights and a spring which you can do yourself.

A better option but more money is upgrading to the '16+ Team primary.

It is the same engine from 2010-17

snownman · May 27, 2019

kiliki said:
^^^ this.
the top end should be done IMO around 3K to 3500 fresh stock pistons.
the primary at 2k should be changed.
compression one each gauge will be different if I remember some place around 135. you can get a good look at the pistons very easy with the hood off just take the 2x 10 mm bolts holding the power valves in and just pull the valve out. this will give you a good look at the front and top of the piston. look at the piston rings at the locations the edges of the valve would meet some times the do meet when they shouldn't!

The guy says it has 2100 miles on it. he says he is only going to put maybe 750 miles per year and says he is only going to ride it for a year or two so what is the need to rebuild the engine right now or ever before he re-sells it? pay 350.00 for a clutch put a set of wts. and a spring in it and ride...

kiliki · May 27, 2019

Big10inch said:
You will need special tools to rebuild it, just buy the uncalibrated new one for $350. Then new weights and a spring which you can do yourself.

A better option but more money is upgrading to the '16+ Team primary.

It is the same engine from 2010-17

^^ this. If you buy a new one for the 15 and back you can re use the weights if they are in good shape. replace the spring for sure. If you buy one for the 16 you will need new weights and spring as they are different. And if you get it for the 16 up order the weights and spring for the 19 calibration for your altitude it was better dialed in then the 16 all be it for a different motor still the same HP. I wouldn't worry about the 5 psi difference it is within 10 psi of the other side.
same motor from 10 to 17.

snownman · May 27, 2019

resale value...

bowhunter11199 said:
Have been looking for M8000s with around 1000 miles and I’ve found some for the $4500-$6000 mark. Recently found a 14’ with 2100 miles that I could pick up for the low $3k.

Other than wear items like shocks and bushing, should I be concerned about buying one with 2000+ miles. What compression should I be seeing in the cylinders? Are these M8000s the same 800 motors that were in the 2010-2011 sleds that run 3000-4000 miles before top ends are needed?

My plan is to ride approx 750 miles a year and would keep it for 1-2 years, so not sure how much the sled would be worth in a year or two with 3500 miles or so

I think you should be able to sell that sled in two years for very close to what you paid for it as long as it stays in good shape 2014's are selling here for between 52-6500$ currently

goridedoo · May 27, 2019

Just curious since we are talking about rebuilding clutches... is there guru for Cat clutches that a guy can send clutches out to and have them cleaned, rebuilt, and balanced?

bopper · May 27, 2019

bowhunter11199 said:
Have been looking for M8000s with around 1000 miles and I’ve found some for the $4500-$6000 mark. Recently found a 14’ with 2100 miles that I could pick up for the low $3k.

Other than wear items like shocks and bushing, should I be concerned about buying one with 2000+ miles. What compression should I be seeing in the cylinders? Are these M8000s the same 800 motors that were in the 2010-2011 sleds that run 3000-4000 miles before top ends are needed?

My plan is to ride approx 750 miles a year and would keep it for 1-2 years, so not sure how much the sled would be worth in a year or two with 3500 miles or so

FYI my 2017 currently has 4500 hardish mountain miles on it and the only thing that's been replaced is the secondary clutch and the fuel pickups in the tank, the Suzuki motor is great. I have warranty for one more season so I'm curious if it's going to blow up this year!

Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk

kiliki · May 27, 2019

goridedoo said:
Just curious since we are talking about rebuilding clutches... is there guru for Cat clutches that a guy can send clutches out to and have them cleaned, rebuilt, and balanced?

I think Hubbs or racin station does offer a rebuild as well as slp.
IMO the only way to go is with a new one they last longer.

bowhunter11199 · May 27, 2019

Did some research on pulling the primary and it seems easy with the use of a pry bar and a clutch puller tool. Is the process as simple as removing the old one, installing the new one and putting the belt back on?

The $350 clutch I found earlier doesn’t come with the spring or weights. Would buying option #1 be a plug and play kind of solution?

https://www.arcticcatpartshouse.com/oemparts/a/arc/52bde917f870021d684c5621/drive-clutch

kiliki · May 27, 2019

yes but you would need to take your weights out and order a new spring. this is the best and cheapest way to go.

bowhunter11199 · May 28, 2019

Called an Artic Cat dealer in UT and one in ID to get some thoughts on replacing the clutch. The guys I spoke with seemed fairly knowledgeable, but they both said they don’t necessarily recommend replacing the primary just because of miles

I trust your guys opinions more than random service techs but I’m curious why they said to just clean and inspect the primary and if the bushings and weights are in good shape, to not replace the primary?

bowhunter11199 · May 28, 2019

There is also this 6” crack in the hood. Owner said hasn’t been crashed, owner said the plastics are just tight so it cracked over time. No sure I buy that lol

Betterview · May 28, 2019

I would never use a pry bar to remove a clutch, puller only!! That crack can only be caused by some kind of impact, and as far as miles on a sled they are accurate only if the current speedometer, was on the sled from day one.

bowhunter11199 · May 28, 2019

Betterview said:
I would never use a pry bar to remove a clutch, puller only!! That crack can only be caused by some kind of impact, and as far as miles on a sled they are accurate only if the current speedometer, was on the sled from day one.

Thanks for the info. One can only hope the speedometer is original when buying any used sled. Owner said there is no damage to the pipe or motor under the cracked hood, but being 4 hours away from the sled I’m unable to confirm at this time

jim · May 28, 2019

Rollers on primary usually go first. If they have any play or make high pitched noises as you rotate them, they are ready to go. And when the rollers go, they can take out the bushings and weights. No, miles are not the tell-all with cat clutches, but 2k is generally up there if taken care of. And waiting until they fail will cost you more money.

And just for reference, I consider myself to be hard on sled...lots of long pulls wide open in deep snow (lots of underhood heat), and I generally get 1000 to 1500 miles out of a primary. Yes I clean and service them. Everytime they fail, one of the rollers get a little slop and I replace the clutch. I have discussed with a few places about rebuilding correctly...but you are into it at least $250 to do that and the metal is not that great...so even rebuilding can leave compromised or cheap metal/Al that will accelerate the next wear-out.

bowhunter11199 · May 28, 2019

jim said:
Rollers on primary usually go first. If they have any play or make high pitched noises as you rotate them, they are ready to go. And when the rollers go, they can take out the bushings and weights. No, miles are not the tell-all with cat clutches, but 2k is generally up there if taken care of. And waiting until they fail will cost you more money.

And just for reference, I consider myself to be hard on sled...lots of long pulls wide open in deep snow (lots of underhood heat), and I generally get 1000 to 1500 miles out of a primary. Yes I clean and service them. Everytime they fail, one of the rollers get a little slop and I replace the clutch. I have discussed with a few places about rebuilding correctly...but you are into it at least $250 to do that and the metal is not that great...so even rebuilding can leave compromised or cheap metal/Al that will accelerate the next wear-out.

PM sent. Thank you

Buying a M8000 with higher miles?

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