2013 M 800 153 Trenching

buddylove330 · Feb 3, 2018

I'm looking for any suggestions to get this sled to get on top of the snow. I went from the stock settings to 60 psi up front, the front of the track loosened the coil, rear shock at 140 and limiter strap all the way out. The sled is still acting like a ditch witch. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Btw 250 lbs ready to ride.

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Wheeeezy9 · Feb 3, 2018

Cutting the out side fingers offf was a big improvement for me .

yz250_ · Feb 3, 2018

buddylove330 said:
I'm looking for any suggestions to get this sled to get on top of the snow. I went from the stock settings to 60 psi up front, the front of the track loosened the coil, rear shock at 140 and limiter strap all the way out. The sled is still acting like a ditch witch. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Btw 250 lbs ready to ride.

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Lower bar risers and pushed forward.

Possible clutch engagement too high of rpms?

Also agree on cutting all the small lugs off

Allseasons · Feb 3, 2018

Limited strap out will get skis off snow, but also make it trench worse in powder. Your allowing the front of the skid to drop and cut into the snow, if it drops, then the rear drops or cuts even further causing trench. Lighten up front skid shock, add more to rear, yet transfer your body weight and stance more forward while riding.

buddylove330 · Feb 3, 2018

yz250_ said:
Lower bar risers and pushed forward.

Possible clutch engagement too high of rpms?

Also agree on cutting all the small lugs off

Clutch engagement is good at 3700 replaced stock primary spring with a black/silver SLP.

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Betterview · Feb 3, 2018

Getting a sled up on top of the snow definitely is affected by setup but we must always remember a basic law of physics, great flotation is best obtained by evenly spreading the weight of sled and rider over the skis and track while still trying to progressively pack the snow as we pass over it. The problem is when we are beginning from a dead stop and we have added psi only to the rear shock for a heavier rider we by default are transferring weight to the skis also. This lessens the ability of the skis to get on top quickly and now we are pushing through the snow rather than climbing on top.

On the early pro-climbs the best thing we can do in my opinion is put on a more flexible and wider ski such as Polaris Grippers. Once the front of the sled lifts itself up on top rather than being plowed up on top, trenching becomes much less of an issue. Also when we add air to the rear track shock we need to pay attention to sharing some of that extra load by the front track shock and spring.

yz250_ · Feb 3, 2018

buddylove330 said:
Clutch engagement is good at 3700 replaced stock primary spring with a black/silver SLP.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

My engagement dropped to 2900 when I added the tki belt drive and the ultra light brake rotor from bdextreme. I love the slow and technical control now

buddylove330 · Feb 3, 2018

Betterview said:
Getting a sled up on top of the snow definitely is affected by setup but we must always remember a basic law of physics, great flotation is best obtained by evenly spreading the weight of sled and rider over the skis and track while still trying to progressively pack the snow as we pass over it. The problem is when we are beginning from a dead stop and we have added psi only to the rear shock for a heavier rider we by default are transferring weight to the skis also. This lessens the ability of the skis to get on top quickly and now we are pushing through the snow rather than climbing on top.

On the early pro-climbs the best thing we can do in my opinion is put on a more flexible and wider ski such as Polaris Grippers. Once the front of the sled lifts itself up on top rather than being plowed up on top, trenching becomes much less of an issue. Also when we add air to the rear track shock we need to pay attention to sharing some of that extra load by the front track shock and spring.

I replaced the skis at the beginning of the season w/ C&A bx's.

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buddylove330 · Feb 4, 2018

Wheeeezy9 said:
Cutting the out side fingers offf was a big improvement for me .

Just cut off the fingers, it's a piece of cake with pruning sheers. Headed riding next Friday and will give an update when I return. Going to adjust ski shock and rear skid pressure a bit in the hills see if I can get somewhat dialed in.

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john6719 · Feb 4, 2018

yz250_ said:
My engagement dropped to 2900 when I added the tki belt drive and the ultra light brake rotor from bdextreme. I love the slow and technical control now

How does the belt drive or brake rotor impact clutch engagement?? Neither of those things impact when your primary decides to close and grab the belt. That's weights and spring.

DirtdoctorLJ · Feb 5, 2018

Big Guy Set up

Im a little heavier than you at 280 but this is what works on mine...I replaced the front track spring with a 160/260 cat spring part number 2704-229 and run it with one turn of pre-load, back shock at 135-140 adjust so you get around 2" of sag at rear when you get on sled, LF ski 67 and RF ski 64 and send your primary clutch to Speedwerx talk to Jeremy Houle he can explain what they do but it has something to do with shimming the spider and a different spring to make it react like the 18's costs around $100 and make sure your track is tight so it doesnt bunch up in front on throttle....good luck and ride safe

yz250_ · Feb 5, 2018

john6719 said:
How does the belt drive or brake rotor impact clutch engagement?? Neither of those things impact when your primary decides to close and grab the belt. That's weights and spring.

With no clutching changes made, it dropped the engagement rpms by 600 rpms and add 300 on the top end. I'm going to be adding heavier weights do compnsate and bring the top RPM's back down a little.

I don't know if it's because of the lower rotational weight and less rolling resistance or what, but it definitely made a huge difference.

summ8rmk · Feb 5, 2018

yz250_ said:
With no clutching changes made, it dropped the engagement rpms by 600 rpms and add 300 on the top end. I'm going to be adding heavier weights do compnsate and bring the top RPM's back down a little.

I don't know if it's because of the lower rotational weight and less rolling resistance or what, but it definitely made a huge difference.

"Clutch engagement" is 100% controlled by the primary springs and weights, nothing else!
Belt deflection can effect sled movement. The belt drive and brake rotor DO NOT move untill the secondary starts to turn from the primary clutch engaging the drive belt......

Alpha Cat......

bgraff1 · Feb 8, 2018

summ8RMK is correct. the engagement RPM is controlled by primary spring mainly and weights. belt deflection can also affect the engagement RPM as will belt condition. ive also done a belt drive and light weight disk at the same time and there was zero change to engagement RPM

yz250_ · Feb 13, 2018

bgraff1 said:
summ8RMK is correct. the engagement RPM is controlled by primary spring mainly and weights. belt deflection can also affect the engagement RPM as will belt condition. ive also done a belt drive and light weight disk at the same time and there was zero change to engagement RPM

I didn't change any weights or springs, but definitely possible that upon reassembly the deflection was changed. Clutch parts we left unchanged as I wasn't sure exactly what I needed. Adding another gram to the weights this week to bring the RPM's down a little

ges · Feb 13, 2018

the best mod you can do is relocate rear suspension to the 14 skid you will drill out front hole and will need to purchase the rear adaptor make new sled out of it

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