wide band O2 sensor life
- Thread starter pura vida
- Start date
T
I've heard from a couple different turbo builders that is not as big of a deal as some make it out to be.MAYBE have to replace the sensor once a year, most are saying the make it 2-3 years depending how much you ride.
I've never fouled one out and failed it - they typically either slow down or read on the lean side. At $70 a pop, it's cheap to have a spare. I'll be testing the oil resistance of mine this week as I' breaking my engine in with an O2 installed.
It really has to do with working temps and leaded fuele but. No turbo for me but mine is in the pipe just before the can. First one lasted more than a season but when I started running leaded race fuel it would toast it in about 4 rides. The Denso is suppose to be better than Bosch for leaded fuel so I am trying that one now. Working temps are listed at 900F so I found a bung extention that has a venturi type system so the actual sensor is not directly in the air stream. Hoping this will keep it cooler and not lead foul so quickly.
My buddy put his in the down pipe behind the turbo on his leaded race gas sled and his Bosch lasted three seasons.
My buddy put his in the down pipe behind the turbo on his leaded race gas sled and his Bosch lasted three seasons.
Lead kills them really quick...and 100ll av gas has quite a large amount of lead in it, its only low lead compared to the old green av gas.
I use a/f guage as a test only..once its set up out she comes.
figure if you know (example) that at your perfect a/f ratio your egt is spot on 1250 wot long pull and your plugs read this way as long as the egt stays the same the a/f is a OK
This is a huge problem on car motors running leaded race fuel and o2 sensors.
I use a/f guage as a test only..once its set up out she comes.
figure if you know (example) that at your perfect a/f ratio your egt is spot on 1250 wot long pull and your plugs read this way as long as the egt stays the same the a/f is a OK
This is a huge problem on car motors running leaded race fuel and o2 sensors.
P
thanks for the info. no turbo for me and just running pump gas. i'm considering the autotune setup from power commander. just wondering how long i could expect the sensor to last. 70 bucks a year is cheap maintenance once a year all things considered. and i know most don't run the sensor all the time but that is another discussion, see associated thread...
pv
pv
This cant be right most race fuels are leaded? Silber can you chime in here?
4 rides was all i got with 3 gallons race per tank I ride a m/1000 and have 14.5/1 head pipe and y with ported cylinders i tune with out it now and see no need for it. but thats me
correct...try 100% leaded race, you will be lucky to get 1 good ride out of a sensor. this is why its a nightmare running leaded race fuel in a car using a O2 senson for any length of time.
no issues at all with unleaded fuel, be it pump gas or unleaded race gas. figure a O2 sensor in a car running unleaded goes 50000 miles or so. figure the oil in a 2 stroke may cause it to need a good cleaning now and then but probably last longer than the motor.
TTT... I think friscospices and I are both thinking the same thing. Silber??
Also has to do with how hot it gets, how much extra oil gets to it, how much extra unburned fuel gets to it. A lot of this depends on where you put the sensor.
P
so.... where is the "best" place for the sensor? y-pipe (bet it would foul faster there), mid pipe, next to the temp sensor, in the can, other?
and how does each of those locations effect the readings of the sensor? further from the cylinder cause it to read leaner?
pv
and how does each of those locations effect the readings of the sensor? further from the cylinder cause it to read leaner?
pv
I e-mailed the link to Silber for an answer.
It's oil and heat with a 2s, and location where you mount the sensor. Without a heat sink and the sensor mounted in the pipe, you might get as little as 20 hours on an 02 sensor, even on nolead pump. With a heat sink, you could get a season on a sensor. It's not on or off, it's consistency/accuracy, and it won't hold a calibration when they go. You pull them out of the pipe to calibrate, connect to a 12v. Yep, ran them multiple seasons. Nice for tuning the motor, with wash checks and egts, then pull them out and use EGT's to monitor. JMPE.
Mount in fattest part of pipe, indexed to flow, at 2 or 10 o'clock.
Mount in fattest part of pipe, indexed to flow, at 2 or 10 o'clock.
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The best place in my experience (with a turbo) is in the down pipe of the turbo. The only downside to this location is that when off the thottle you might get a bit of reversion and see leaner numbers but not a big deal since we are really concerned with on throttle monitoring. If on a bend in the pipe then install on the outside radius.
In the pipe it self the best place would be right before the can in the top of the pipe. Y pipe is no good. Remember on 2 stroke that raw fuel go in and out of exaust pipe.
Youcan also try VP Motorsport 109. Its unleaded and would be as good or better than 100ll. That would allow you to get it tuned in then you could run 100ll once your tuned. That being said you would need to research the spec. gravity of the two fuels to make sure they are similar.
Vp 109 has a spec grav of .72, 100ll is .685-.720 depending on batch
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-drag-racing.html
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-drag-racing.html
J
Why would a 2 stroke running race be so much harder on one than a 4 stroke? I ran two seasons on my apex running 50/50 pump/race and never had an issue
