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Cheap rear skid sag fix for G4

Devilmanak

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The Hygear spacers are legit. I tried stiffer springs on my 17 sleds, they were horrible. Way too much for the stock shocks without a revalve, they kicked and were harsh. Pulled them and installed the spacers, did what I needed them to without buying high end shocks. I pull them out of my sleds every year and put them on my new ones.
 
S
Mar 6, 2008
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The Hygear spacers are legit. I tried stiffer springs on my 17 sleds, they were horrible. Way too much for the stock shocks without a revalve, they kicked and were harsh. Pulled them and installed the spacers, did what I needed them to without buying high end shocks. I pull them out of my sleds every year and put them on my new ones.


First time I tried spacers of this sort vas on the "fatboy" springs I put on the ProXR I mentioned above. The spacers actually made the stiff springs better in every way, not only stiffer, since the very big play between springs and shafts didn't allow the springs to work properly.
This type of spacer should be fitted from factory in all springs that has coils that are considerably larger than the rod/pipe it is fitted on.

Make them or buy them AND get them fitted to your sled!
 

1Mike900

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A piece of ABS plastic pipe works just dandy! Just make sure there is clearance between the ID of the spring coils as they will close up when compressed, roughly .06 to .100 clearance should do. Mike
 

mountainhorse

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Not 3.5” of sag though. That’s way to much.

Sincere questions... hope you can take a moment with me here...

How/where are you measuring this?

At the location that you are measuring this... what is the full travel from fully compressed to fully extended (just before you lift the track off the ground)?

Im sure you already know this...
Some sag is ideal/optimal in skid setup... there does exist a 'too much' or 'too little' point however.

Here's some other stuff to ponder.... my OPINION.

One other thing that really gets neglected is lubrication on the skid... probably ever other ride and with SPECIFIC grease that is not very viscous and does not thicken at the temps you ride....... Plus you need to pull, disassemble and clean your skid from time. Often that in itself will eliminate stiction and improve situations with too much sag.

Plain and simple, a skid that is not lubed, and with the correct grease, will not only wear out sooner... but will not perform up to par.

One of the nice things in the Doo skid that is much nicer than the Poo skid... The Doo actually has bushings on the pivot shafts... the Poo does not.

With lots of hard miles on a sled... and with how important it is to proper sled function... should be part of your summer P.M. in addition to shock service on the sled... IMO.






.
 
Last edited:

donbrown

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Sincere questions... hope you can take a moment with me here...

How/where are you measuring this?

At the location that you are measuring this... what is the full travel from fully compressed to fully extended (just before you lift the track off the ground)?

Im sure you already know this...
Some sag is ideal/optimal in skid setup... there does exist a 'too much' or 'too little' point however.

Here's some other stuff to ponder.... my OPINION.

One other thing that really gets neglected is lubrication on the skid... probably ever other ride and with SPECIFIC grease that is not very viscous and does not thicken at the temps you ride....... Plus you need to pull, disassemble and clean your skid from time. Often that in itself will eliminate stiction and improve situations with too much sag.

Plain and simple, a skid that is not lubed, and with the correct grease, will not only wear out sooner... but will not perform up to par.

One of the nice things in the Doo skid that is much nicer than the Poo skid... The Doo actually has bushings on the pivot shafts... the Poo does not.

With lots of hard miles on a sled... and with how important it is to proper sled function... should be part of your summer P.M. in addition to shock service on the sled... IMO.






.

Thank you.

What type of grease do you think does the job well?
 
C

caper11

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Nov 2, 2008
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Interesting, the biggest thing ive noticed with the tmotion is alot of sag is caused by worn out rear shock eye bushings and top hat bushings. If the skid is not disassembled when new and all of these bushings are not greased, than expect to replace these at approx 500 miles. Yes I have done two separate sleds that ives owned already at around the 500 mile mark. Its very easy to walk up to a sled, and right away I can tell if the bushings are wore out now that I know what im looking for.
Now as far as rear springs, when setting up the rear sag, its not necessary to run the preload at the same numbers, nor is it necessary to run the same preload springs. Sometimes its only necessary to install one big boy spring to accomplish the desired rear sag for the riders weight.
 

donbrown

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Interesting, the biggest thing ive noticed with the tmotion is alot of sag is caused by worn out rear shock eye bushings and top hat bushings. If the skid is not disassembled when new and all of these bushings are not greased, than expect to replace these at approx 500 miles. Yes I have done two separate sleds that ives owned already at around the 500 mile mark. Its very easy to walk up to a sled, and right away I can tell if the bushings are wore out now that I know what im looking for.
Now as far as rear springs, when setting up the rear sag, its not necessary to run the preload at the same numbers, nor is it necessary to run the same preload springs. Sometimes its only necessary to install one big boy spring to accomplish the desired rear sag for the riders weight.

So … what grease do you use?
 

1Mike900

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Does this thin low temp grease leak out during the summer months with temps in the 80's + Would it not be better to wait until the later months late Sep/early Nov. to do this? Mike
 

donbrown

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Does this thin low temp grease leak out during the summer months with temps in the 80's + Would it not be better to wait until the later months late Sep/early Nov. to do this? Mike

It gets thin but the sled is just sitting correct. I store my sleds in a shed where it gets over 120F this time of year.
 

rulonjj

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Sincere questions... hope you can take a moment with me here...

How/where are you measuring this?

At the location that you are measuring this... what is the full travel from fully compressed to fully extended (just before you lift the track off the ground)?

Im sure you already know this...
Some sag is ideal/optimal in skid setup... there does exist a 'too much' or 'too little' point however.

Here's some other stuff to ponder.... my OPINION.

One other thing that really gets neglected is lubrication on the skid... probably ever other ride and with SPECIFIC grease that is not very viscous and does not thicken at the temps you ride....... Plus you need to pull, disassemble and clean your skid from time. Often that in itself will eliminate stiction and improve situations with too much sag.

Plain and simple, a skid that is not lubed, and with the correct grease, will not only wear out sooner... but will not perform up to par.

One of the nice things in the Doo skid that is much nicer than the Poo skid... The Doo actually has bushings on the pivot shafts... the Poo does not.

With lots of hard miles on a sled... and with how important it is to proper sled function... should be part of your summer P.M. in addition to shock service on the sled... IMO.






.


My sled was 3.25” at the rear bumper. With some snow build up it was over 5”. When I said they didn’t need 3.5” of free sag, it’s because it gets so much worse with even a little bit of snow buildup.


I also agree that some free travel is important. But it should be closer to 1” or 1.5” imo. Using the hygear spacers made it close to that with my spring set on 3.

I don’t recall what the full travel measurement was
 
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