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-   -   15 m8000 chain case oil change/removal (https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=442336)

Wheeeezy9 04-26-2018 05:48 PM

15 m8000 chain case oil change/removal
 
Hi!! I am in the process of doing some off season maintenance/ inspection ... I looked up and found a link to cat country service manaual .. how to remove the chain case cover ect...it looks like I have to remove ( partially ) my skid plate to get to bottom bolts of the chain case ... is this correct ? Just want to make sure before I tear into it? Any advice / tips would be appreciated! Thanks

kiliki 04-26-2018 05:52 PM

Just take a drill and drill two holes right over the front of them about 3/8 if the holes aren't already not there

Wheeeezy9 04-26-2018 06:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
? How do you remove those bottom bolts ?

kiliki 04-26-2018 06:13 PM

Drill a hole through the plastic cover.

Wheeeezy9 04-26-2018 06:17 PM

Ok ...I understand ! Thanks for the help!

XCaSSAULT 04-26-2018 07:56 PM

On my 15 there is two holes underneath right in line with the torx head bolts. Just enough room there to get the bit in there.

As for the torx heads...make damn sure u got the right size and get it in there flush and square before turning. I got all except 2 I had to notch for flat head cause they stripped. Then I went to hardware store and got stainless hex heads and threw away the damn torx:eyebrows:

boondocker97 04-27-2018 09:12 AM

I'd probably drill holes in the skid plate like kiliki said. They say to remove it so you can use the holes in the stock guard to access the bolts.

Side note: if you change out the torx bolts, you'll need some of the OEM ones around still if you ever have to change the chain case backer or do a MC drop and roll. The factory torx bolts have threads shaped to roll their own threads in the new parts. Results in stronger threads than tapping.

Wheeeezy9 04-27-2018 11:44 AM

Good advice guys ... much appreciated... gonna hopefully tackle it this weekend... always hate those bottom bolts of the chain case cover.

dgiles 04-27-2018 01:08 PM

If you sled is stock, there is no drilling required. There already are holes aligned with these two bolts.

Also, easiest way is to remove the one torx holding the bottom side panel to the footwell brace. this will allow the side panel to flex outwards to get various lengths of torx to take out all the bolts. I use a ratchet with a few different extensions.

Wheeeezy9 04-27-2018 01:34 PM

I think Iíll undo the skid plate enough to access as you have described 👍🏻

Wheeeezy9 04-27-2018 03:11 PM

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Easy .. peasy... just had to get the skid plate out of the way.. now I can get at those bottom bolts 😎

kiliki 04-27-2018 06:21 PM

What's up with the super long screw hanging down on the left side of the chain case

kiliki 04-27-2018 09:52 PM

also after market on the skid plate? this would have been nice to know from the start.

Wheeeezy9 04-28-2018 02:35 AM

The screw is from the board a small board keeping space between skid plate and and belly

Wheeeezy9 04-28-2018 02:37 AM

In the first post I mention Ď between skid plate and belly panĒ. .. thanks for all the help guys

Wheeeezy9 04-28-2018 05:05 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yesaaah! Mission accomplished! I used the wrench from the tool kit to start the loosening of the bolts... worked well . Now that Iím this far any recommendations... I am going to research about the tensioner mod ? Iím not ready for a belt drive yet but gears? Iím at sea level up to 3000í ... already have clutching set up( backcountry from black diamond xterm )

kiliki 04-28-2018 05:55 PM

Are you talking to manual chain tensioner

Wheeeezy9 04-28-2018 07:01 PM

Yes

XCaSSAULT 04-28-2018 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wheeeezy9 (Post 4149515)
Yesaaah! Mission accomplished! I used the wrench from the tool kit to start the loosening of the bolts... worked well . Now that I’m this far any recommendations... I am going to research about the tensioner mod ? I’m not ready for a belt drive yet but gears? I’m at sea level up to 3000’ ... already have clutching set up( backcountry from black diamond xterm )

I also am going to try the bdx back country kit. That and trying 21tooth top and 49tooth bottom. From my understanding the 12 and 13 m8000’s came with the 21-49 and cat change it to 19-50 to reduce belt/clutch heat. The bdx kit claims to reduce heat so I’ll take the extra track speed back. There’s a post somewhere on snowest with the part numbers for the 21-49 gears and they should work with the stock chain.

Complete hyvo kit is around $180, so u could go that route and manual tensioner adds another $110 (or whatever it is). For now I’m just going the part number route as I plan on mutliple multiple upgrades this summer like the 16 front end kit so I’ll be choicey in this case as the stock chain seems solid. (Although I’m sure someone will chime in and say otherwise) I’ll be in there once in a while to make sure all looks good anyway, and the new gears will be upgraded part number which are steel not aluminum like what’s in there now.

Oh and when I put mine back together I’m not sure if I added to much chaincase oil (think it’s the whole jug u buy from cat) and it leaked some through the drive shaft bearing. Or somethings not quit right with the gasket but ever since I’ve had small drops on the garage floor. So next time I’ll prolly add silicon at least to the bottom. I know on all my polaris experience silicon was a must. Just something to look out for

Vern 04-29-2018 09:23 PM

Do the hyvo kit and yamaha tensioner. I got about 2500 miles on this set up and never had an issue.


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