Anybody installed one yet? Tall riders could really benefit from this when traversing technical steep terrain I believe!
Summit g4 post forward kit
- Thread starter skank
- Start date
Post forward 850G4
I am 6'1" or 6'3" with my riding boots I just installed the skidoo 4" riser block and tilted it almost vertical. I will be raking the riser back closer to stock this is the first skidoo I've ever had where there really isn't a need to have your bars further forward. I always road my sleds with a vertical block it sucks on the trails but works for when you really need to get over the front on steep hills. But with the 850 your moving front back to middle working the sled with your feet while sidehilling I don't think you need a post forward kit. Your feet position on the 850 favor middle-back opossed to forward & further forward on Xp & xm chassis. Try a lower riser block I think you'll be pretty surprised how big of a difference that makes. Before you order the post forward kit. I also finally jumped on the lower bars ban wagon last year always made fun of those guys for years, just cuz your sled looks like Bret Rasmusson don't mean it will climb like his haha. Finally rode a sled last year with low risers hated it sucks for the trail sucks going down hills. But you lay that sled on its side turne back up hill or sidhilling up and down in steep terrain it was a huge difference one of the most noticeable improvements I have felt first hand. I would like to try an 850 with low bars and a post forward kit I've been wrong in the past why stop now ha.
I am 6'1" or 6'3" with my riding boots I just installed the skidoo 4" riser block and tilted it almost vertical. I will be raking the riser back closer to stock this is the first skidoo I've ever had where there really isn't a need to have your bars further forward. I always road my sleds with a vertical block it sucks on the trails but works for when you really need to get over the front on steep hills. But with the 850 your moving front back to middle working the sled with your feet while sidehilling I don't think you need a post forward kit. Your feet position on the 850 favor middle-back opossed to forward & further forward on Xp & xm chassis. Try a lower riser block I think you'll be pretty surprised how big of a difference that makes. Before you order the post forward kit. I also finally jumped on the lower bars ban wagon last year always made fun of those guys for years, just cuz your sled looks like Bret Rasmusson don't mean it will climb like his haha. Finally rode a sled last year with low risers hated it sucks for the trail sucks going down hills. But you lay that sled on its side turne back up hill or sidhilling up and down in steep terrain it was a huge difference one of the most noticeable improvements I have felt first hand. I would like to try an 850 with low bars and a post forward kit I've been wrong in the past why stop now ha.
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You don't feel hunched over with the shorter riser? I noticed yours was low. . . I went up to the 8.3" because of my aching neck. Maybe my head weighs too much...
Yeah I do hear what your saying but I’ve noticed if you don’t have riser in line with post there is a terrible arcing effect when you turn that swings your bars and body off of center. That is a challenging thing to adjust for when in steep trees. In order to keep riser in line with post, and to be far enough forward in the steep, moving post forward would be the ticket I think if you are my height! 6’6”.
I don’t think it’s needed for a shorty tho.
We will see.. I’m putting one on tomorrow to try. It was hard to get my hands on though. Not in full production and available yet.
Post forward
I'm rolling them back to inline with the post. And yes Adam the lower bars suck until you are climbing or sidhilling. I didn't feel the need to suck up limiter strap yesterday front didn't want to come up as bad. But we really didn't climb anything to steep snows still pretty scares lots of rocks still poking out. I'm usually not considered a short rider haha compared to 6'6" I gues I'm a little fella. Let me know how it workes out for you.
I'm rolling them back to inline with the post. And yes Adam the lower bars suck until you are climbing or sidhilling. I didn't feel the need to suck up limiter strap yesterday front didn't want to come up as bad. But we really didn't climb anything to steep snows still pretty scares lots of rocks still poking out. I'm usually not considered a short rider haha compared to 6'6" I gues I'm a little fella. Let me know how it workes out for you.
I got an email last friday saying my G4 post fwd mod is on the way.
I can't wait to try it.
P
On the boosted Yamys I always needed forward bars.
Lots of wild horses to hang on to and be ahead of:face-icon-small-hap
The rather mild in comparison 165 to 175 hp 850 depending on who you believe allows me to sit back sort of speak. They handle perfect with the stock setup dialed for your liking. At 6 foot 2'' stock is about perfect on this sled.
Lots of wild horses to hang on to and be ahead of:face-icon-small-hap
The rather mild in comparison 165 to 175 hp 850 depending on who you believe allows me to sit back sort of speak. They handle perfect with the stock setup dialed for your liking. At 6 foot 2'' stock is about perfect on this sled.
sooooo... anyone install a kit? Good/Bad?
Skinz has one and it looks good. I might have to get one. I'd also appreciate any feed back people have on this kit!
My Review of the SkinZ post forward mod.
I LOVE IT…
First recommendation is to have an adjustable set of handlebar risers to take advantage of the new position you’re going to deal with now.
I put the mount in the 2 inch forward hole. This new angle pushed the bar up more straight and raised the handlebars up around an inch and an 1/8th.
Getting underway on the road, I found the bars high for me in the stock riser position. Once we got to a good snow stash, I picked out an area where nobody would bother me and spent the next 10~15 minutes destroying a small area, doing crop circles and all around surfing, a slalom in a field of scattered pine trees. Trying to see the difference in post forward mod rise to the surface in benefit for me.
With the risers at maximum position (Same height as stock) I found the sled was not too tippy, but once in a carve, sled hard cutting over, its hard to bring the sled back up. A few times I fell off.
Falling off was the feeling, just like the riser being too high; as-if you got to ride a buddy’s sled w/a tall 10” riser - he’s a tall guy. I'm falling off because as the sled goes into its carve, the g-force is not enough for my body to stay on the sled, my chest is too far away from the sled. I let go, the sled squirts out from under me.
I pushed the bar to the bottom and did circles and would track poach in them and cut across them, trying to carve the sled in “tracks” to see how it would handle. In the lowest riser position, I did not like the more effort I had to put the sled on its side.
Moving the bar riser a ½ inch-ish at a time, I found a position for best control carving in existing tracks with the risers full down, then back up about ¾ to 7/8 of an inch. I this position its easy for me to lean the sled over and I can do a good deep carve, not falling off.
Carving all fresh; can go slower, less throttle and get the sled on its side, far over at a slower vehicle speed. When I feel “ooh a little too far”, more cowbell (throttle), track digs in, hooking the snow harder and I can come out of it. Now ive got used to when I feel im going over too far, I try to remember to "steer the bars into the turn" and....(WhooP)...the sled quickly uprights.
Now gives me a bit more “throttle room” because im using less throttle. Im prejudice about this portion because the tightness of my clutch kit from throttle to ground is positive.
Carving on tracks; I go over my own or someone else tracks, im more forward and have more force on the skis to control my balance being leaned over on the side. Im not pitched as much, the pitching is less hard from hitting the next track, trying to cut the track into a poached track.
Climbing now has improved balance, meaning the sled does not want to pitch off to the left or right so easily while the skis are in the air, augering a slot in the pow. I find in the climb with skis off the snow I don’t have to fight as much to keep the sled level, not pitching left or right much as before p.f.m.
In the trees it’s a delight. You are on an angle, those 2 trees in front of you are pretty tight, having a small well on each one, several times I was able to take advantage of the edge of a tree well to slingshot me to do a tightrope manouver, breeze through and squirt up a hill to the next “where am I going to go” and try to have a plan “b”….haha
I think im going to suck up the limiter strap a ½ inch or inch.
Other than that 10 out of 10. God I love SkinZ, they make great products that deliver what they say. My own riding area and the snow type we have (wet / heavy / cascades type concrete), I recommend the post forward mod if you do a lot of surfing and riding in the trees.
Have an adjustable riser so you can make the steering a complete adjustable package, tuning it to your own style of riding.
The instructions show how the bottom block is machined like a swivel and the brown bushing swivels in that block. Also said that the top of the brown bushing might need to be sanded a little bit if the steering is a little tight. The steering feels somewhat like the rubber boots have filled with snow - not that tight but you notice there is a bit more effort out in the field to turn the bars.
Sept 2018 - This pre-season im going to pull the cab off to check the airbox to see how the tape holds up with the steering post setting against it.
Also going to pull the bottom block off and see where it rubs and give it a little bit of sanding - just like the instructions said might need to be done.
First day I put "bang on" 60 miles on it. Full tank of gas plus 1/2 of a big LinQ can to do 98Kms. It was a great day.
Prolly have about 6 more weekends on it after the install. Last ride was May 4th
I LOVE IT…
First recommendation is to have an adjustable set of handlebar risers to take advantage of the new position you’re going to deal with now.
I put the mount in the 2 inch forward hole. This new angle pushed the bar up more straight and raised the handlebars up around an inch and an 1/8th.
Getting underway on the road, I found the bars high for me in the stock riser position. Once we got to a good snow stash, I picked out an area where nobody would bother me and spent the next 10~15 minutes destroying a small area, doing crop circles and all around surfing, a slalom in a field of scattered pine trees. Trying to see the difference in post forward mod rise to the surface in benefit for me.
With the risers at maximum position (Same height as stock) I found the sled was not too tippy, but once in a carve, sled hard cutting over, its hard to bring the sled back up. A few times I fell off.
Falling off was the feeling, just like the riser being too high; as-if you got to ride a buddy’s sled w/a tall 10” riser - he’s a tall guy. I'm falling off because as the sled goes into its carve, the g-force is not enough for my body to stay on the sled, my chest is too far away from the sled. I let go, the sled squirts out from under me.
I pushed the bar to the bottom and did circles and would track poach in them and cut across them, trying to carve the sled in “tracks” to see how it would handle. In the lowest riser position, I did not like the more effort I had to put the sled on its side.
Moving the bar riser a ½ inch-ish at a time, I found a position for best control carving in existing tracks with the risers full down, then back up about ¾ to 7/8 of an inch. I this position its easy for me to lean the sled over and I can do a good deep carve, not falling off.
Carving all fresh; can go slower, less throttle and get the sled on its side, far over at a slower vehicle speed. When I feel “ooh a little too far”, more cowbell (throttle), track digs in, hooking the snow harder and I can come out of it. Now ive got used to when I feel im going over too far, I try to remember to "steer the bars into the turn" and....(WhooP)...the sled quickly uprights.
Now gives me a bit more “throttle room” because im using less throttle. Im prejudice about this portion because the tightness of my clutch kit from throttle to ground is positive.
Carving on tracks; I go over my own or someone else tracks, im more forward and have more force on the skis to control my balance being leaned over on the side. Im not pitched as much, the pitching is less hard from hitting the next track, trying to cut the track into a poached track.
Climbing now has improved balance, meaning the sled does not want to pitch off to the left or right so easily while the skis are in the air, augering a slot in the pow. I find in the climb with skis off the snow I don’t have to fight as much to keep the sled level, not pitching left or right much as before p.f.m.
In the trees it’s a delight. You are on an angle, those 2 trees in front of you are pretty tight, having a small well on each one, several times I was able to take advantage of the edge of a tree well to slingshot me to do a tightrope manouver, breeze through and squirt up a hill to the next “where am I going to go” and try to have a plan “b”….haha
I think im going to suck up the limiter strap a ½ inch or inch.
Other than that 10 out of 10. God I love SkinZ, they make great products that deliver what they say. My own riding area and the snow type we have (wet / heavy / cascades type concrete), I recommend the post forward mod if you do a lot of surfing and riding in the trees.
Have an adjustable riser so you can make the steering a complete adjustable package, tuning it to your own style of riding.
The instructions show how the bottom block is machined like a swivel and the brown bushing swivels in that block. Also said that the top of the brown bushing might need to be sanded a little bit if the steering is a little tight. The steering feels somewhat like the rubber boots have filled with snow - not that tight but you notice there is a bit more effort out in the field to turn the bars.
Sept 2018 - This pre-season im going to pull the cab off to check the airbox to see how the tape holds up with the steering post setting against it.
Also going to pull the bottom block off and see where it rubs and give it a little bit of sanding - just like the instructions said might need to be done.
First day I put "bang on" 60 miles on it. Full tank of gas plus 1/2 of a big LinQ can to do 98Kms. It was a great day.
Prolly have about 6 more weekends on it after the install. Last ride was May 4th
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F
Looking for a Cdn distributor of the post forward kit for the g4..
I'm 6'6", in Canada. anyone up here distribute this?
F
Sled dealer in Calgary has one for sale, bought one there this week..” base camp”
What did they charge you?
F
330
We have them in stock.
Ski Doo Gen 4/5 Post Forward Re-Mount Kit
In stock NOTE: Gen 4 will require air box modifications. This simple upgrade to your Ski Doo Summit G4 and G5 will make all the difference when riding back country technical terrain. Because it positions the rider forward and closer to the weight mass of the sled, it gives the rider more sled...
www.sledsolutions.com
F
Well installed kit last night in the g4.. can’t believe how much taller rider is now and the better feel on shop floor flipping it on side.. one is not jumped over sled and getting a much better leverage.. wish I did this day one, better yet why has not brp allowed us to have the option to move forward to our liking.. two beer job
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