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I cut 5" off my 155 but did it the old school way it took me a long time but I think I was better off. I did use the 5' MTNTK cooler which fit perfect.
Cut Your Tunnel Without Welding It Back Together
- Thread starter MTNTK
- Start date
Did you hear or feel the track hitting it?
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Or just saw it when loading?
Was sled bottoming out or jumping it hard?
I have kit installed also now I’ll have this in back of my mind. Worse case you just weld it up with old cross section if you kept it.
F
I ride it hard, like it’s meant to be. I could hear and feel it hitting.
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Are you running anything unique skid wise? oversized wheels/ or anything like that?
I've cut a few way down the old school way and they still have the angled snow flap holder and it never hits. Curious what happened with yours.
I've cut a few way down the old school way and they still have the angled snow flap holder and it never hits. Curious what happened with yours.
C
Cutting the tunnel should not cause any rubbing more than stock.
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F
My sled is bone stock. I think the problem is how thick the whole assembly ends up being. Even in their product description it says the guard is meant take abuse from the track. I just don’t want people assuming that it’s bulletproof. If I knew what I know now, I’d cut and weld, not waste 450$ Canadian pesos on this bull chit
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F
Thanks dude. But it does with the mntnk “ no welding kit”
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C
Ok. So how much thicker is the plastic kit versus the welded end .....
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F
It’s more then just the plastic, with the guard I’m gonna guess it’s 3/4” thicker. Combine that with it being shorter, (closer to the wheels and track) it’s interfering excessively. I’m gonna guess there was little testing from the manufacturer. Good theory, poor execution. My dealer send mntnk messages and I’ve also sent messages to mntnk with no reply’s.
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They didn't do any snow testing before releasing the kit. But it looks like its just smashed a bit. All cosmetic. Who cares?? And I want to know what you were doing to bottom but that bad. The easy way to fix would be add to the stops. Plus I would be curious fit some one with air shocks to let all the air out of their sled and collapsed the rear skid and see how it hits.
F
F
I missed that earlier post. I guess it leaking is a problem... More JB Weld!!! ?
Don’t mean for you to feel attacked by anyone, but I’m also curious how you would bottom out that bad, and how a soft rubber track would do damage like that. Sure it’s not from a rock or something like that?
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It might be soft rubber but it’s the speed it’s traveling that does the damage. Two of my friends have this kit. One is installed on a 163 cut down 4 inches. Few times has contacted kit but no damage yet. Other has not installed due to durability concerns after looking at clearance with kit installed on a 155/163 rails/3 inch track.
FYI
My buddy installed this MTNTK kit, and did not achieve a seal on the plastic adapters. He gave up and had it welded. Kit for sale if anyone wants it......lol!
Thank god, imagine if this failed in the bush or on the mountain in a nasty location.......
My buddy installed this MTNTK kit, and did not achieve a seal on the plastic adapters. He gave up and had it welded. Kit for sale if anyone wants it......lol!
Thank god, imagine if this failed in the bush or on the mountain in a nasty location.......
Sorry for coming in late on this, as I'm a product development engineer and have lots of experience and several patents concerning 3D printing. I can maybe give some insight. It looks like the printed tubes are likely raw ABS. Unfortunately, 3D printed plastics are very porous, due to the way the plastic is put down in layers and the very large molecular size of the plastic. So, holding fluid, especially at a temperature approaching the softening temp (221F for ABS but can be lower with the porosity) is not a good idea. There are finishing methods to reducing the porosity by tumbling or vapor polishing, but the pics I've seen look to be just raw printed parts.
black eye on mtntk's part for releasing something that is serious with cutting the tunnel with no testing behind it.
I'm not a materials expert, but wouldn't it make a lot more sense to mill these out of aluminum so they expand and contract at a similar rate to the coolant tubes you cut....
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