M10 vs Timbersled Comparison (w/pics)

[mattymac]

alot a coin for that skid! Most people wont even go near the cost of one of those!!!! Plus I have to add, theres really nothing FAST nor M10 about the CR/Tison/Fastrax skids nowadays totally custom. I had about 2800 in my M10-W2 144, sold it for 1000 and was glad to get rid of it! Been riding with a MC with an expertx, yeah there a little heavier but its by far the best all around skid ive ever seen and it rides better than the M10's which do ride incredible! wheelie king to skis flat on the ground with the turn of the ride height adjuster! My next skid without a doubt!

 

[BigFish BC]

matty, you are not alone. Many guys suffered with a poor set up M10. In the begining, rail extensions screwed up the skid's geometery.

Then guys figured out how to minimize by mounting changes and shock length (among other tricks that I would get yelled at if I gave away).
Then along came CR Racing's billet rails, it fixed the short-rail with extensions problem, couple it with all the thing guys had figured out,......you get pure sexy in rear skid performance for stock or big power. I ran my 42lb billet M10 Ti skid with a good running 1200 w/c and with a 800 stock twin. Never ran the Alan's skid to compare to. But from guys that have them love 'em.

Fastrax did my M10 install as well.

Here is a properly set up 144 rail w/ext billet/Ti on a hillclimb race sled:

Here is a Fastrax/CR Racing billet/TI on a Poo

what is that beautiful skid worth 4z very nice,were you happy with the all around performance of that m-10.

 

[4Z]

I sleep with the darn thing I like it so much......LOL
Again, the install is VERY important. For example, cheating the aft end up a little lets it "rock" back for transfer. This is an old trick but it still works. And, the rear Ti sping stack, one of the two springs is a special order RCS that Curt gets helps in transfer and keeping your but happy on the way in/out of Big Dawg! Tricks with the front track shock and spring rates keeps it from trenching. My skis come up when I want them to, not like a stocker with sacked out rear spings, but I adjusted the FRA to get the lift and transfer I wanted
There is alot to be done with the M10 to get rid of the born in trenching and no transfer issues but when you ride one that has been set up and installed correctly, you won't want anything else. Pluse it will last longer.
That skid in the pics would run a guy close to $5k to out right purchase. However, if a fella has and M10 to start with (ebay or swapmeet) toss the rails, send everything else to FTX and have them install CR Racing rails and set it up..........you can finish any up grades later or not. I know many guys that stuck with the factory arms and just had Curt upgrade the shocks or just set up the originals etc.....

Example: (estimates)
-$500 for a good/used M10
-$1200 for CR Racing rails
-$300 for service of shocks and set up
-$200 shipping and misc.

$2200 for IMO the best mountain skid anywhere.

Things that can be upgraded as time goes buy:
-Ti springs
-Zero pro shocks
-Billet or CrMoly arms
-Bling wheels

 

[redwater]

new age

Has anybody tried the nextech single shock carbon fiber suspension.

 

[hiwayman]

Norway. If you have a way to make an m-10 weight transfer at all please let the rest of us m-10 riders know about it. The way they are set up stock, they weight transfer VERY little.

 

[dennon]

got an m-10 with air assault on my tapex, and going to have mt tamer on my nytro with mc x. I haven't really done dick all to my m-10 other then ride it. been a great skid, but we'll see if all the hype on the timbersled holds up. i'm excited to try it out.

 

[Norway]

Transfer/tight track

Norway. If you have a way to make an m-10 weight transfer at all please let the rest of us m-10 riders know about it. The way they are set up stock, they weight transfer VERY little.

I wont pretend to know to much about the weight transfer problem. On the ratcheting vs. binding issue I've actually done some trial and error.

The original mounting kit from FAST has 2 alu pieces that mounts to the tunnel up front, and the front arm mounts to that instead of directly to the tunnel. These alu pieces have 2 alternative mounting holes that lets you swithc between a "high/lo" position of the front arm.
Dont think CR and those guys use these?

Anyway, this lets you adjust ski pressure and should help transfer along with changing spring preload to more front spring/less rear spring.
The slider blocks have a length that determines how much the skid transfers, just like coupler blocks on say X-tra 10.
Cutting these blocks shorter will allow more transfer, but it will be a mod and not an adjustment (no going back).

This is where other skids with adjustable blocks/straps/washers etc. may be better than a M-10.

The price is a point. You can get anything to perform if you throw enough upgrades and mods to it. Guess many guys are more than capable of getting a skid mounted right. If timbersled etc. works good right out of the box and leave a good amount of transfer adjustability, then the M-10 might not be the best option.

4Z has "seen the light" and looks at buying and slightly modding a used M-10 as a good way to go. To each his own.

Will post later on my findings trying to adjust my M-10.

RS