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MDS just off the dyno with 2012 162

Dam Dave

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We will be testing M1100T weights on the snow as soon as riding starts. Various boost levels and elevations. Steve will hit the dyno as well.

let me know when you have something ready for the 2012 M800 153:becky:
 
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boosted1

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Nov 26, 2007
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I have track dynoed every sled i own, getting 10hp at the track happened on every one simply add weight. all I am saying is that the sled is clutched for 9000ft we dynoed at 2100ft, 10hp at the track is a VERY common gain when clutched properly for the elevation.
we have clutched properly with factory weights, then with different fancy clutch weights, 2 different ones to be exact, one was the same HP as factory weights and the second lost 1hp, engagement was really high
no stories here.... pure facts.
maybe MDS has a good weight, Im not saying they dont but if I cant add or remove weight without taking the weight out, too me its not a good weight.
I run Cutler adjustables they match HP levels of stockers.

not bashing, again... my opinion

B



You can be skeptic all you want, when these first hit the market people where throwing all kinds bs around. When they came out I had been looking for something like them for a while and was one of few that got exactly what the potential was. Truth is the weights are built different and add efficiency to the clutching. I ran them in my turbo, change them out on the hill, same day, same boost, same rpm, same hill. 36* straight helix and gained 9mph track speed, 36/46 helix gained 4.5mph track speed. Thats a lot more than 9hp to gain that much track speed at elevation, and I had no complaints about the previous clutching.

Even more so, why come on here and try and make up stories of what wont work, or something must be wrong with the numbers, when there is a money back guaranty and you can find out for yourself with a little time and no cost.
 

Cascade Addiction

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I run MDS weights in all my sleds. I have noticed a difference with my seat of the pants dyno. These weights work on old and new M's. They are well worth the investment.
I fully agree!!!! If you feel it then great, if you don't then don't buy it!! Oh wait, that is what steve says, if you don't notice it he gives your money back, how many others are doing that on an installed part that you don't like??? IMO too much emphasis given on will it do this, will it do that, what wasw the barometric pressure and alignment of the planets when it was tested, they can't test everything, but they report what they did TEST and here's the results, GO RIDE!!!!
 

WyoBoy1000

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I have track dynoed every sled i own, getting 10hp at the track happened on every one simply add weight. all I am saying is that the sled is clutched for 9000ft we dynoed at 2100ft, 10hp at the track is a VERY common gain when clutched properly for the elevation.
we have clutched properly with factory weights, then with different fancy clutch weights, 2 different ones to be exact, one was the same HP as factory weights and the second lost 1hp, engagement was really high
no stories here.... pure facts.
maybe MDS has a good weight, Im not saying they dont but if I cant add or remove weight without taking the weight out, too me its not a good weight.
I run Cutler adjustables they match HP levels of stockers.

not bashing, again... my opinion

B

I know what you are saying, I'm saying I took really good clutching out of my sled and put in the MDS and gained way more with all variables the same. So in other word if you are worried about if it was clutched right before and after on the dyno, who cares I proved it on the hill. Thats all I was saying. I didn't take it as bashing, I do the same things with other stuff, don't really believe it until I see it. That is why I went through the trouble to swap the weights on the hill in the cold while snowing so that I could honestly say I knew there was a deference. Thus worth it. On my m1000 I tried it but without extra motor mounts it made it worse and until I fixed that problem I couldn't say and now with it mounted right there is a huge improvement but to many variables so I can't give exact number, all I can say is its better.
 
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boosted1

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Nov 26, 2007
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well perhaps i will givem a go... hey money back if im not happy right!
Thanks WB, waitin on the 1100T retro, hopefully get it in the next week of 2, 3 or 4 feet at the cabin in Boulder (so I hear) in revelstoke
Happy sleddin!

B


I know what you are saying, I'm saying I took really good clutching out of my sled and put in the MDS and gained way more with all variables the same. So in other word if you are worried about if it was clutched right before and after on the dyno, who cares I proved it on the hill. Thats all I was saying. I didn't take it as bashing, I do the same things with other stuff, don't really believe it until I see it. That is why I went through the trouble to swap the weights on the hill in the cold while snowing so that I could honestly say I knew there was a deference. Thus worth it. On my m1000 I tried it but without extra motor mounts it made it worse and until I fixed that problem I couldn't say and now with it mounted right there is a huge improvement but to many variables so I can't give exact number, all I can say is its better.
 

CATSLEDMAN1

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mds weights

adding little screws to $200 weigths will not tune a clutching sytem.............to where it can be.

two piece weights/big butt weights/weights that require modding your spyder/aluminum washers/rolling balls I've tried them all, always felt smug knowing I was doing better than that, but you have to keep trying the junk, Geo convinced me the mds were a different approach, ok not different, way retro.......back to 1970 when we made our own weights with secret profiles .

MDS work better than what you have.........sorry. If you get toooo far out in mega spring/3 number helix/ bad engagement land, listen to MDS when you install them or you will miss nervana.
 
G

Going West

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adding little screws to $200 weigths will not tune a clutching sytem.............to where it can be.

two piece weights/big butt weights/weights that require modding your spyder/aluminum washers/rolling balls I've tried them all, always felt smug knowing I was doing better than that, but you have to keep trying the junk, Geo convinced me the mds were a different approach, ok not different, way retro.......back to 1970 when we made our own weights with secret profiles .

MDS work better than what you have.........sorry. If you get toooo far out in mega spring/3 number helix/ bad engagement land, listen to MDS when you install them or you will miss nervana.

Is any of this even English, cause I have no idea what your ranting about.
 
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CatRyder88

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adding little screws to $200 weigths will not tune a clutching sytem.............to where it can be.

two piece weights/big butt weights/weights that require modding your spyder/aluminum washers/rolling balls I've tried them all, always felt smug knowing I was doing better than that, but you have to keep trying the junk, Geo convinced me the mds were a different approach, ok not different, way retro.......back to 1970 when we made our own weights with secret profiles .

MDS work better than what you have.........sorry. If you get toooo far out in mega spring/3 number helix/ bad engagement land, listen to MDS when you install them or you will miss nervana.

Cocaine is a hell of a drug?
 
I

Icedog

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Is any of this even English, cause I have not idea what your ranting about.

He is saying to install the components that MDS tells you too and to not think you are smarter than the guy that has done all the testing to get the most out of the weights. If MDS says to run a Polaris black don't install a D&D white thinking it will work better..........etc.
 

Matte Murder

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Could you post a pic of your weights and a pic of the stock ones? Then explain why your weights are better? I hear what you/wyo/others say they do on the dyno and hill but what are they doing in the clutch itself. Very interested...
 

WyoBoy1000

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You can ask all the questions you want, but to fully understand it you just need to install some, money back guaranty, what are you waiting for. Once you see it you will start to understand. More weight, placed in different areas, a different pin location, they apply more force but still allow backshift. In fact only weights I have ever seen hold within 50rpm on a turbo at wot. They force the secondary to work rather than the secondary forcing you to run a certain amount of weight.

http://mdsclutching.com/
 

mrquick68

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Hmmm. Interesting read. Thinking i'll be back on a cat around mid season. I don't do factory testing on my own dime, but if they are performing by mid season, i'll be back on team green. So, that's why I'm trolling...

So, these MDS weights are making some internet buzz. Interesting ideas. Do they work on stock sleds (M8s?). I see Geo said no, but i'd like to know why or why not. They look heavy in the mid-tip area, but lightened at the very end. interesting "throw" geometry as well. Hmmm. Money back!? I'll spend the clink to try them if they are going to work on a stocker.

I miss these cat threads. Not a lot tuners over in the Doo section. They just buy mystrey parts and never dig into the details. engineers and tinkerers must ride cats. Ha ha.
 

WyoBoy1000

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Hmmm. Interesting read. Thinking i'll be back on a cat around mid season. I don't do factory testing on my own dime, but if they are performing by mid season, i'll be back on team green. So, that's why I'm trolling...

So, these MDS weights are making some internet buzz. Interesting ideas. Do they work on stock sleds (M8s?). I see Geo said no, but i'd like to know why or why not. They look heavy in the mid-tip area, but lightened at the very end. interesting "throw" geometry as well. Hmmm. Money back!? I'll spend the clink to try them if they are going to work on a stocker.

I miss these cat threads. Not a lot tuners over in the Doo section. They just buy mystrey parts and never dig into the details. engineers and tinkerers must ride cats. Ha ha.

They where built for stock sleds and work well. half of the design is just to fit and have enough weight along with adjust-ability.
 
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