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what can a guy do to a 2000 summit 700 with a 159X2'' track?

T

Thunderguy BOOSTED

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2008
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Bc Canada
Hey guys!

what could i do to a 2000 ski-doo summit 700 ZX with a 159 track??
It has twin split second pipes, a moderate perfomance head, reeds, and some clutch work!!

What could you do to it now???


Justin

PS i dont have it yet but i would just like to know!!

sledding 003.jpg
 
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wildcard28

Well-known member
Dec 18, 2007
1,477
202
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55
Clarkston WA
s375.photobucket.com
Good Looking sled, Looking at your pic Sno eliminators would be awesome, I made my own and my boards never have that build-up anymore.

Lightweight parts, Boss or Rev seat conversion.

Tripple motor. LOL

Good Luck, Darren

boards.jpg new boards 1.jpg
 
T

Thunderguy BOOSTED

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2008
1,324
68
48
Bc Canada
Good Looking sled, Looking at your pic Sno eliminators would be awesome, I made my own and my boards never have that build-up anymore.

Lightweight parts, Boss or Rev seat conversion.

Tripple motor. LOL

Good Luck, Darren

K!
So a seat, hood, sno , x-verts, nos?? LOL
Oh iam going to dump the air box!!
Is there a hack system on that year of sled??
what would you want for a set of those sno eliminators you made???

Justin
 
T

Thunderguy BOOSTED

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2008
1,324
68
48
Bc Canada
i would see it looks good???;)

this is what i would do to it a light weight hood, boss seat, paint the pipes, x-vert drivers, sno eliminators, and K&N air filters and she will be ready to rock!!!!! It looks like he had a run in with the trailing arm, oh well!, molly light weight trailing arms with fix that problem! Or are there better ones out there?????:confused:

what do you think????
oh and he's got EGT on it!!:cool::cool:

justin

And yes it is a little dirty under the hood but a little polishing and she'll look as good as new!!:rolleyes:

sled summer 002.jpg sled summer 2 002.jpg
 

Robbie

Well-known member
Premium Member
Dec 23, 2007
472
373
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2000 summit

Put a 162X16X2.5 extreme on it. Will make a whale of a difference.
 

winter brew

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Nov 26, 2007
10,016
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LakeTapps, Wa.
I would keep the airbox.....pods will drop power and sucking hot underhood air is not good either.
Mesh hood, Boss seat, upgrade shocks, tune/cluch as necessary and ride! :beer;
 

deboer

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Jan 5, 2009
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Archer, IA (Northwest IA)
i got a 02 zx 800 and want to put a 159" 2.5" lug and trim it to 2.25 with boss noss. Also make sure you mod you 2ndary clucht so that it will flow back and forth. depending on what kind of riding you do and how tall you are a riser is almost a must have.

Also if you would put a 162 on it let me know what your going to do with that 159'' er you got on it now:confused::D:confused:
 

Summit8

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Premium Member
Oct 13, 2001
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don't think there is a hack (HAC) system on that year, if it doesn't have DPM, put a set of Power-Jets on, Jack Harris,etc.... , the brass needle valve type. They work great for alt.-temp compensation.
For more clearance, drop the skid out of the tunnel up to 4" and drop the front arm mount down to get transfer back.

Front arm relocate.JPG wildchild drop bracket1.JPG sled on trailer2.JPG Doo in yard3.JPG
 
I
Dec 14, 2001
1,377
508
113
Archer, Idaho
If you get this sled .............

#1. Get Rid of those twin pipes!:eek: Put on a stock ceramic coated single and a HPS can.

#2. Lighten it up Mesh Hood & Seat. (Lots of free mods to drop weight also) Listen to Thistledoo, he & I had some screamin lightweight ZX's ;)

#3. Gear down.

#4. SHR primary clutching.

#5. TEAM Secondary (SHR)

#6. Riser & Venting (If no mesh hood)

#7. Forget the PODS.

:cool:
 
Last edited:

deboer

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Jan 5, 2009
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Archer, IA (Northwest IA)
#1. Get Rid of those twin pipes!:eek: Put on a stock ceramic coated single and a HPS can.

#2. Lighten it up Mesh Hood & Seat. (Lots of free mods to drop weight also) Listen to Thistledoo, he & I had some screamin lightweight ZX's ;)

#3. Gear down.

#4. SHR primary clutching.

#5. TEAM Secondary (SHR)

#6. Riser & Venting (If no mesh hood)

#7. Forget the PODS.

:cool:

what do you say to run for gears and also would you get more power with those 2 clutches or whats the deal
 
M
Sep 21, 2002
1,510
253
83
Edmonton
My 2000- Highmark had:
  • Mots porting
  • Crankshop twins
  • Lightweight hood
  • Big Johns clutching
  • Gearing was 19/43
  • Setback skid
  • Riser
  • unswaybarred
  • simmons skis
  • drop and rolled case
  • gutted airbox

The twin pipes were flawless. I would run them. With the porting, gearing and clutching it ran with the 03 800's.
You will find the attack angle to suck, it is best to set it back 3.5 inches.
simmon skis are also a must.
I tore the motor down after a few good hard seasons, and never saw one flake in the rings. The 700's were different than the 800's.
Roller secondary would also be a must.
 
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R

RKT

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2001
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Preston, Idaho
www.2strokeheads.com
My 2000- Highmark had:
  • Mots porting
  • Crankshop twins
  • Lightweight hood
  • Big Johns clutching
  • Gearing was 19/43
  • Setback skid
  • Riser
  • unswaybarred
  • simmons skis
  • drop and rolled case
  • gutted airbox

The twin pipes were flawless. I would run them. With the porting, gearing and clutching it ran with the 03 800's.
You will find the attack angle to suck, it is best to set it back 3.5 inches.
simmon skis are also a must.
I tore the motor down after a few good hard seasons, and never saw one flake in the rings. The 700's were different than the 800's.
Roller secondary would also be a must.


Great set-up!!

Yup the skis were the worst ever! They needed to go immediately. We also liked the simmons..

But it must have been horrible to have to be screwin with those twins all day;):confused:
 
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N
Nov 26, 2007
1,356
119
63
CowTown
Twins in the hills

I don't want to get in the middle of a weiner measuring contest so leave me out of it. I don't know the 700 very well (800 I do know better) but I do know this - I run Jaws twins in the hills and they make more power hands down than the stock single. Without re-jetting, I was able to ride to places I couldn't with the stock single on, easily added 10-15 HP as advertised. Not seat of the pants riding - actually being able to climb higher. I actually found the opposite of what everyone said - they made my sled less finicky and more user friendly. Where I would bog and have to re-jet before, I would ride right past that spot and not have to re-jet (even though I maybe should have stopped and re-jetted) I will still able to run with decent power where my stock single would have fallen on its face.

Last spring I rode from 2500 ft to 9300 ft in one morning and did not re-jet once with a 10 degree temp change to the warmer as well. At 9300 ft I really should have re-jetted but since we were not staying that high very long I didn't bother. Sled bogged out climbing one hill and that was it. Installed power jets last year and jetting problems are all but gone. If she get's boggy at all I just tighten the screws down and go, never bother to even shut the sled off anymore, crack them open at about the same place on the way down.

Some people say twins are finicky, but their temperment can be easily overcome with a little knowledge. Many people are still using the old ideals that twins/triples are fussy - just like they were in the mid-late 90's when the mountain segment was in its infancy - until then, pipes were only made for similar elevations out east. Then guys started adapting them to the 580 XLT's out west and the attitude stuck - triple pipes suck. I remember one guy with a set of Hooper? drag pipes on his 617 Mach - that thing would never run right and we would all curse him for riding it. I had the same attitude as most. This is no longer the case. Yes the big old 800 Ultra big bore HTG motor with triple pipes or the PSI pipes were hard to tune, but its not the case anymore. Gone are the peaky, high strung pipes on the triples that we used to ride, they have been replaced with more forgiving products. Believe me - I remember every jetting change on the little 600 triples, with pipes more suited for grass drags launches at 8500 rpm than hillclimbing, but the twin is a far more tolerant motor and handles pipes much better and the pipe builders today are building better pipes with broader curves that go away from this stigma. The single pipe delivers far more consistent performance across the board for most riders who do not want to look under the hood all day (and there is nothing wrong with that - some guys just want to ride and never touch a thing). Some pipes work better than others and some guys have had bad luck with twin pipes and it turns them off for good - fair enough. The bigger the bore on the twin too - the more tolerant the pipes are IMO. Ask the 1150-1160+ crowd, not too many of them run single pipes and most of these big twins are big power curves (not peaky) and very tolerant of twin pipes.

My big triple (with triple pipes) is still more finicky than my twin - but again, powerjets and its not that bad. I like being able to grab every ounce of HP from the motor, even if it means lifting the hood and cranking a dial 4 times a day, it only takes me about 30 seconds to dial them in, and the performance difference between them and a single pipe is amazing.

not saying anyone is wrong or right - everyone has had different experiences with pipes. this is just my $0.02.

NSC
 

BIG JOHN

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
1,953
1,146
113
Minnesoooota
Hey guys!

what could i do to a 2000 ski-doo summit 700 ZX with a 159 track??
It has twin split second pipes, a moderate perfomance head, reeds, and some clutch work!!

What could you do to it now???


Justin

PS i dont have it yet but i would just like to know!!


Not that I know anything...:D

But here what I would doo if it were mine...:beer;

1a) cut the head for elevation riding
1b) ceramic coat/wrap the pipes so they keep the heat...very important.
2) 159 track = 19/43 gear (with stock drivers)
3) stock air box...dont even gut it...use RTV to seal DPM manifold plugs
4) add EGT's to verify jetting for pipes
5) primary run a 300 ramp, 12-14 grams and a 160/320 spring- adj. as needed for your elevation and RPM of pipes
6) stock formula secondary...run a 48/44 coated helix and a new beige spring at B-6
7) 670HO pistons and a 5 hole base gasket (verify .005" + clearance) if ya need pistons
8) Champion RN57YC plugs gapped to .018"
9) stiffer rear springs and a 100 lb center shock spring
10) lighten as needed/desire...BJ
 
Last edited:
R

RKT

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2001
1,819
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113
Preston, Idaho
www.2strokeheads.com
Not that I know anything...:D

2) 159 track = 19/43 gear (with stock drivers)

Originally Posted by RKT
gear to 20/43 or 19/43 at the lowest.. Any lower and performance will suffer greatly. Kelsey

Originally posted by Idaho Slim:

Still ranks as the top 5 dumbest statements ever of the 4m. I guarantee you thunder guy, if you ride the high elevations with Kelseys suggested gearing, you are leaving a huge amount of performamnce on the table.

Take it from a high elevation mountain rider, with that track & that 700 motor ---> Gear Down, your performance will THANKYOU greatly
.

John .. there ya go again... joining me in the
top 5 dumbest statements ever of the 4m
group..:confused::confused::face-icon-small-coo
 
R

RKT

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2001
1,819
1,485
113
Preston, Idaho
www.2strokeheads.com
I don't want to get in the middle of a weiner measuring contest so leave me out of it. I don't know the 700 very well (800 I do know better) but I do know this - I run Jaws twins in the hills and they make more power hands down than the stock single. Without re-jetting, I was able to ride to places I couldn't with the stock single on, easily added 10-15 HP as advertised. Not seat of the pants riding - actually being able to climb higher. I actually found the opposite of what everyone said - they made my sled less finicky and more user friendly. Where I would bog and have to re-jet before, I would ride right past that spot and not have to re-jet (even though I maybe should have stopped and re-jetted) I will still able to run with decent power where my stock single would have fallen on its face.

Last spring I rode from 2500 ft to 9300 ft in one morning and did not re-jet once with a 10 degree temp change to the warmer as well. At 9300 ft I really should have re-jetted but since we were not staying that high very long I didn't bother. Sled bogged out climbing one hill and that was it. Installed power jets last year and jetting problems are all but gone. If she get's boggy at all I just tighten the screws down and go, never bother to even shut the sled off anymore, crack them open at about the same place on the way down.

Some people say twins are finicky, but their temperment can be easily overcome with a little knowledge. Many people are still using the old ideals that twins/triples are fussy - just like they were in the mid-late 90's when the mountain segment was in its infancy - until then, pipes were only made for similar elevations out east. Then guys started adapting them to the 580 XLT's out west and the attitude stuck - triple pipes suck. I remember one guy with a set of Hooper? drag pipes on his 617 Mach - that thing would never run right and we would all curse him for riding it. I had the same attitude as most. This is no longer the case. Yes the big old 800 Ultra big bore HTG motor with triple pipes or the PSI pipes were hard to tune, but its not the case anymore. Gone are the peaky, high strung pipes on the triples that we used to ride, they have been replaced with more forgiving products. Believe me - I remember every jetting change on the little 600 triples, with pipes more suited for grass drags launches at 8500 rpm than hillclimbing, but the twin is a far more tolerant motor and handles pipes much better and the pipe builders today are building better pipes with broader curves that go away from this stigma. The single pipe delivers far more consistent performance across the board for most riders who do not want to look under the hood all day (and there is nothing wrong with that - some guys just want to ride and never touch a thing). Some pipes work better than others and some guys have had bad luck with twin pipes and it turns them off for good - fair enough. The bigger the bore on the twin too - the more tolerant the pipes are IMO. Ask the 1150-1160+ crowd, not too many of them run single pipes and most of these big twins are big power curves (not peaky) and very tolerant of twin pipes.

My big triple (with triple pipes) is still more finicky than my twin - but again, powerjets and its not that bad. I like being able to grab every ounce of HP from the motor, even if it means lifting the hood and cranking a dial 4 times a day, it only takes me about 30 seconds to dial them in, and the performance difference between them and a single pipe is amazing.

not saying anyone is wrong or right - everyone has had different experiences with pipes. this is just my $0.02.

NSC

Great post... and right on the money, in my flatlander eyes..:(:(:D
There have surely been fairly recent advancements in pipe design , as well as, all aspects of the 2 stroke engine.

The "OLD" mentality, regarding, pipes, porting, heads, etc, etc.. are just that "OLD" and not relevant anymore.. IMO , of course..

Kelsey
 
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