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Who as stiffened up a gen two steeting post by inserting a steel rod into the post?

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600xc4me

Well-known member
May 21, 2008
1,186
116
63
La Crete Alberta
I've got a 2000 gen two with a total of about 11.5" rise on the bars. I ran it last year with 5.25" rise no problem. But now that I added the RSI backcountry bars I can flex the steering post a lot, with little effort. And I don't expect it to hold up another winter now that it's got so much rise, it's like a lever on an already weak part. I have read on here about guys inserting a solid steel rod into the steering post to help keep it from bending with a riser. I'm wondering how many of you have done this with success? I'm wondering what size rod you are using, and how long? Do you just slide it in? Or should a guy tack it on from the top so it can't move up and down? My last resort will be wildchilds post, but I realy don't want to dish out another $200. I already have $5000 into this sled, and it's my last winter riding it, so I would like to keep it cheap this winter.

Thanks:beer;
 
H
Nov 26, 2007
545
26
28
37
gillette, WY
well its not a Gen 2 but i did that with my ultra i don't remember the size but i think it was between 8"-12" long and i used all thread that was a touch big.. the threads let you beat it into the post and the threads form to the inside of the post,, i have like 6 or so inches of riser and it works great..
just my .02
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
890
113
Soldotna Alaska
It helps but they still bend like a hot stick of butter. The trick to fixing those is to add another bearing support to the steering post above the steering hoop similar to what the edges have. Do that and they are rock solid and will last forever. Someone on this forum sells a kit, I forget who, I made my own and was easy to do and it cheap.
 

Dartos

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Sep 6, 2001
1,574
668
113
Craig, CO
On my 2001 the steering post actual bent down the tube where the factory bend is to go around the oil tank. it seems strange but true. Also the plate the handlebars bolt onto is pretty flimsy and bent until I welded a flat plate for reinforcement on it.
My 2 cents worth.
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
890
113
Soldotna Alaska
Do you have some pics of your setup? I thought about it, but don't see how it would work, or where I would mount it?

I don't have my 01 anymore or I would gladly take some pics. What I did was take 2 pieces of 1x2" rectangular tubing about 6" long and stack them on the long edge making basically a 1"x4" tube. Then using the same bolt holes that your existing post support is using, mount this piece on top of the steering hoop and leave the old one hooked up as well. With this new mount you just created you can now mount an edge or prox type post mount to it. Make sure to measure the diameter of your post and then that of others. There is a stock polaris mount that fits it, I just cant remember what it was that I used. Now having 2 mounting points, the post will be rock solid. I too was bending them in the "S" curve area so just sticking a bar down the center did not help that problem. Niether did cromemoly posts. At 6'1" and 250 I tend to bend posts easily stock let alone when I start adding risers. I hope this makes sense to you and helps you out. Oh yea, I did have to cut out some of the cheesy plastic collar that goes around the post to make room for it. :)
 
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theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
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Soldotna Alaska
The old wedgie's were a straight post and it worked well to run a piece of solid crome moly down the center of those the full length of them.
 
D
Jan 4, 2008
46
5
8
MN
I found the rod down the steering post didnt help much since the gen2 post will bend by the airbox. I made up a bracket that bolted an AC swivel higher up by the flange. Last year I made it even better by using longer bolts and extentions to move the AC swivel right under the flange.

100_0493.jpg
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
890
113
Soldotna Alaska
I found the rod down the steering post didnt help much since the gen2 post will bend by the airbox. I made up a bracket that bolted an AC swivel higher up by the flange. Last year I made it even better by using longer bolts and extentions to move the AC swivel right under the flange.

100_0493.jpg

Yep, that is basically what I did excpt I use rectangular tubing instead of a bent plate. Made it rock solid in all directions
 
B
Nov 26, 2007
1,150
119
63
Salt Lake City
Steering post fix

Go to Lowes and buy a Husky 10 inch long 3/8 ratchet extension.($8.00) Grind off part of the female end and slip it down inside the post. Fits snug, no epoxy or welding needed. No problems with mine since I did it and I have a 6 inch riser and articulating mount.
 
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6

600xc4me

Well-known member
May 21, 2008
1,186
116
63
La Crete Alberta
I'm not sure now what to do. I just went out to the sled, and watched where it's flexing, the whole cross tube, or tank mount what you call that hoop that the post is mounted to, that whole thing is also flexing back and forth. I was thinking of going with a straight post, but it looks like it would still need to have some bend in it to clear the motor mount plate, and one of the pods I'm running is sort of in the way to run a straight post.

Theultrarider, sorry I have a hard time getting a grasp on things without seeing it. lol So you stacked two 1x2 rectangular tubes, behind the post? on top of the stock post mount bracket? And just remove the stock bolts that mount the post bracket and replace with longer ones that also go through the two stacked 1x2's? Then once you have that, mount a pro X post mount on top? How does a guy attach the prox mount to the top 1x2? How about the SLP Upper Support bushing? How would that work? Does it just replace the stock one? Not helping the flex issue? It says helps prevent bending. Not sure.

Thanks guys.
 
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X
Jan 13, 2008
55
0
6
Fenton, MI
Jan08044.jpg


While it is not the easiest way to go, it allows for a much nicer finished product. I have no "cheesy" risers or bmx bars on this, just stock bars on the stock clamp. I used a 1" od chromoly tube over the stock stem. Mine was S curved for the twin motor and I needed straight for the triple swap. The 1" goes from bottom to 6" past the stock height. The best advantage, is that I can run the new polaris style post bushing. I rebuilt the Steering, or tank, hoop out of 1" X 1" square tubing to eliminate the side to side flex and have a nice place to mount the new bushing.

Jan08036.jpg
 
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