clutch bolt torque spec
- Thread starter Snowstar
- Start date
8
I was told only 50 lb. when i did mine. It's held together so far. :beer;
B
mountain horse will probably know better but i know the 900's are 96ft lbs and i think that was for the 800's too.
D
03 polaris primary torq spec is 45flb, secondary spec is 15-19flb.
drive clutch bolt torque
Don't pay any attention to what polaris says.
ALL Polaris domestic drive clutches should be torque to 80 Ft lbs.
96 is to much.
The key to success is two fold.
#1 - The drive clutch bore tape MUST be clean and DRY ( like wipe with brake cleaner dry ) and the crank taper MUST be clean and COMPLETEY dry.
Foot not to #1 - you are trying to achive here is............You want the drive clutch to BITE hard to the taper so it does NOT spin and twist to the crank. ( the better you get it to bite ) The better the chance its on square and it won't spin weld itself on to the crank.
#2 - torque the clutch to 80 ft pounds and drive your sled gently around the yard ( or on a stand and BRAMP the throttle a bunch of times ) and then retorque it. do this until it stops taking more torque.
I have heard of people lubing the shaft !!! NEVER NEVER NEVER !!!!!!!!! do that.
You got by with it on less powerful sleds, the more power they have the more trouble you get into doing it wrong.
Dan
Don't pay any attention to what polaris says.
ALL Polaris domestic drive clutches should be torque to 80 Ft lbs.
96 is to much.
The key to success is two fold.
#1 - The drive clutch bore tape MUST be clean and DRY ( like wipe with brake cleaner dry ) and the crank taper MUST be clean and COMPLETEY dry.
Foot not to #1 - you are trying to achive here is............You want the drive clutch to BITE hard to the taper so it does NOT spin and twist to the crank. ( the better you get it to bite ) The better the chance its on square and it won't spin weld itself on to the crank.
#2 - torque the clutch to 80 ft pounds and drive your sled gently around the yard ( or on a stand and BRAMP the throttle a bunch of times ) and then retorque it. do this until it stops taking more torque.
I have heard of people lubing the shaft !!! NEVER NEVER NEVER !!!!!!!!! do that.
You got by with it on less powerful sleds, the more power they have the more trouble you get into doing it wrong.
Dan
S
I'm not doubting you Dan, just making sure I'm reading that right.
The clutch on my 2003 800 VES should be torqued to 80 ft. lbs. as well?
The clutch on my 2003 800 VES should be torqued to 80 ft. lbs. as well?
H
Lubing the shaft now that is funny...." hmm my sled keeps over reving for no reason"
P
be very careful trying to torque to 80#, I would never go higher than 50 on an 800 after breaking one off in my crank, they are very difficult to get out. Just look at the bolt- it necks down to about 7/16" for several inches, 80# is pretty high torque for a bolt that diameter, they twist apart very easy. I've never had one come loose from 50#. But definately make sure the taper is spotless and retorque right away
B
from mountainhorse he posted this awhile back
80 ft ibs
Good post.
96 is really pushing it ( see alot of bolts ruined ) I have never had a problem at 80 ft lbs. I have a calibrated torque wrench and I have a pretty good feel.
I guess a better way to to put it for the masses.
dot all to i's and cross all the tee'sdo the prep work and get the clutch torqued tight - if you only go to 50 make damn sure yoiu retorque it a few times to make sure its seated.
80 has always worked for me on the 800's.
Good post.
96 is really pushing it ( see alot of bolts ruined ) I have never had a problem at 80 ft lbs. I have a calibrated torque wrench and I have a pretty good feel.
I guess a better way to to put it for the masses.
dot all to i's and cross all the tee'sdo the prep work and get the clutch torqued tight - if you only go to 50 make damn sure yoiu retorque it a few times to make sure its seated.
80 has always worked for me on the 800's.
Same bolt=same torque. Getting the proper stretch on the bolt is the idea of torque specs.
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