D
did the slp vent kit and its geard down what else can i do to increase belt life?????
went through another belt on a d8
- Thread starter dragonrider08
- Start date
S
How many miles on belt ????
belt life
some basics you may be overlooking...wash the new belt in warm soapy water and rinse,they cast the belts and the mold release compound is still on them,break the belt in properly...usually try at least 15 miles of being gentle on it,..always try and loosen track if its full of snow and ice before your first start up or just before you park it by lifting the backend and spinning it to clean her out abit...of course the belt alignment as well and remember the belt deflection is more important to keep accurate then the 1/8 belt ride out in the secondary..and as always there is several great threads and books(Aaens..HOPE THATS SPELLED RIGHT..??}..on clutching..ps..the failed belt will tell you a full story of what happening...glazed..??..cords pulled..???..etc..etc..usually the dealer or manual has pictures of belt failure..slippage,side pressure,heat etc
some basics you may be overlooking...wash the new belt in warm soapy water and rinse,they cast the belts and the mold release compound is still on them,break the belt in properly...usually try at least 15 miles of being gentle on it,..always try and loosen track if its full of snow and ice before your first start up or just before you park it by lifting the backend and spinning it to clean her out abit...of course the belt alignment as well and remember the belt deflection is more important to keep accurate then the 1/8 belt ride out in the secondary..and as always there is several great threads and books(Aaens..HOPE THATS SPELLED RIGHT..??}..on clutching..ps..the failed belt will tell you a full story of what happening...glazed..??..cords pulled..???..etc..etc..usually the dealer or manual has pictures of belt failure..slippage,side pressure,heat etc
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Change out the helix to the next steeper one.
My belt temps were extremely hot at first. I floated the clutch by taking out one spacer, regeared to 19/41, and stripped the foam from the left side of the hood, with mediocre results. After adding the vent's it made all the difference, I can do a pull and then put my hand on the clutch now, it's night and day diff. I believe that unless you get front to back airflow the vents won't work. I believe that if the other stuff is already done, you should strip the foam out. If you look at the hood/belly gap, you'll see that the foam blocks airflow.
You clutching is probably off enough to build heat & take out the belt. Get a clutch kit from Carl's or one of the other performance shops. You don't give much info-clutch set up, elevation you ride, how many miles on a belt, 080 or 115 belt?
H
original belt, 600 miles, pulled the foam geared down, vented
As was stated, check your clutch alignment. My motor mounts were loose in 150 miles and alignment was way off. Also as Bull stated let the secondary float. I took out 1 spacer from the back and added an extra to the front. That was the only way I could get it to align to both the team alignment tool and the polaris one. Not sure which is right, but I haven't blown a belt since.
Had 2 belts start to pull the threads out so I bought the vents and gear pulled in the garage changed out gear, set it back down on jack stand to spin the belt and retention chain. Reved the motor up and could not believe how much the motor moved, after further inspection the left front motor mount bolt was busted. Have to pull the motor to get the broken piece out.
R
Not a d8 but a d7 and I have gone through 3 this season. Probably about 700 miles, mostly out west with two trail rides in the midwest backcountry. (Flat but fresh snow)
I'm shredding the edges on mine so the little fiber cord starts hitting the guards.
My allingment appears fine when checking at two different places. (Togwotee and Power Toys in Riverton.) It could use a bit more float to it and I will take care of that here shortly. The foam is already gone.
I have been told to go down a gear on the top (20-41, I think) and go with a Black/Green driven spring before doing the vents.
I'm looking at everyone's suggestions as it's too expensive to throw a belt at this everytime I head out. The belt is untouchable when I'm taking it off.
I'm shredding the edges on mine so the little fiber cord starts hitting the guards.
My allingment appears fine when checking at two different places. (Togwotee and Power Toys in Riverton.) It could use a bit more float to it and I will take care of that here shortly. The foam is already gone.
I have been told to go down a gear on the top (20-41, I think) and go with a Black/Green driven spring before doing the vents.
I'm looking at everyone's suggestions as it's too expensive to throw a belt at this everytime I head out. The belt is untouchable when I'm taking it off.
it comes 20/41 stock...you probably need a 19t top gear to gear down.... i would jack up the backend and run the track, watching how your clutches work. i have heard about a few cases of broken motor mounts, certainly would cause bad belt issues. if you are going through so many belts, something IS wrong. carefully check through all the items listed above. pretty sure one of them will be your issue.
2cool vents on my Turbo 7
200 miles on first belt, lost a primary spring and somehow gouged the belt to unusable...
600 miles on the second belt and looking awesome! Will probably change once the hero snow comes... let the chute slaying commence!
are you using the 1080 belts?
200 miles on first belt, lost a primary spring and somehow gouged the belt to unusable...
600 miles on the second belt and looking awesome! Will probably change once the hero snow comes... let the chute slaying commence!
are you using the 1080 belts?
J
600 miles on stock 08 D7 belt...
just put the 180$ one on.... better get more then 6 hundy!
just put the 180$ one on.... better get more then 6 hundy!
H
check your motor mounts, then start messin with clutching
R
I'll have a look. The alingment thing is spot on now but I'll dig into the mount issue. I wouldn't think it's that as I would think I would notice more things going on then just a belt issuse.
I was looking at the stock gearing, yup it's already 20-41 from what the book says.
Has anyone used a black green driven spring?
I was looking at the stock gearing, yup it's already 20-41 from what the book says.
Has anyone used a black green driven spring?
By spot on, do you mean in perfect alignment with the tool? You may want to consider a SLP torque stop as well. The motor can shift quite a bit even with one installed. I like to give it about an 1/8" I think team says .060 of extra offset to the front since the motor torques to the rear.
S
Do the Dragon 800's have a torque link(behind clutch on exhaust side) and a push arm(behind the secondary on intake side)?
