M-series A arm removal question...?

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blackcloud2k

Free Member

Dec 26, 2007

799

36

28

Fort Collins, CO

• Feb 25, 2008

• #1

Does anyone have any suggestion for getting the upper a arm bolt out with out taking off plastics? It is pretty long so just wondering if there was a way around taking the front belly pan off (the hood is attached to this). Also any pointers on getting the bottom arm off?

 

C

Carbon Dreams

Free Member

Dec 3, 2007

139

4

18

• Feb 25, 2008

• #2

blackcloud2k said:

Does anyone have any suggestion for getting the upper a arm bolt out with out taking off plastics? It is pretty long so just wondering if there was a way around taking the front belly pan off (the hood is attached to this). Also any pointers on getting the bottom arm off?

Click to expand...

PITA: Take the hood off. Remove the Airbox. Remove the nose bowl. Remove the Belly Pan. Then it is easy. I like to remove the belly pan anyway, just to look things over. FYI: Put a #20 torx bit in a driver drill and make short work of those pesky panel screws.

Have Fun! :beer;:beer;:beer;

 

G

graveler

Free Member

Dec 17, 2002

3,171

297

83

North Bend, Washington

• Feb 25, 2008

• #3

Carbon Dreams said:

PITA: Take the hood off. Remove the Airbox. Remove the nose bowl. Remove the Belly Pan. Then it is easy. I like to remove the belly pan anyway, just to look things over. FYI: Put a #20 torx bit in a driver drill and make short work of those pesky panel screws.

Have Fun! :beer;:beer;:beer;

Click to expand...

for the hood just pull the pins and set the hood up on the bars if your lazy

 

B

blackcloud2k

Free Member

Dec 26, 2007

799

36

28

Fort Collins, CO

• Feb 25, 2008

• #4

Carbon Dreams said:

PITA: Take the hood off. Remove the Airbox. Remove the nose bowl. Remove the Belly Pan. Then it is easy. I like to remove the belly pan anyway, just to look things over. FYI: Put a #20 torx bit in a driver drill and make short work of those pesky panel screws.

Have Fun! :beer;:beer;:beer;

Click to expand...

I was afraid you were going to say that. haha. Looks like im going to need some more :beer;:beer;:beer;:beer; to get that job finished.

 

S

snowmobiler

Well-known member

Nov 26, 2001

8,107

3,922

113

• Feb 25, 2008

• #5

plus a drill bit when those torx screws strip out.

 

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Nubulin

Well-known member

Oct 26, 2005

848

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43

Flatlands USA :(

• Feb 25, 2008

• #6

All the plastic comes off a lot faster than you think.

 

S

Symesko

Free Member

Jan 10, 2008

11

0

1

Red Deer, AB

• Feb 26, 2008

• #7

I had to tear mine off, in order to put a new, straight pair of A-arms and a new straight shock on. It's not really too bad, but be prepared to remove a lot of screws.

Like they said above, you pull pretty much everything. If you get the sled propped up on it's side, it makes the job pretty easy. You will need to pull the bottom skid plate(I'm not sure if we should call the plastic piece a skid plate, but whatever) off in order to remove the bottom A-arm.

Don't waste your time doing anything with the toolkit that AC sent you. Get a real #20 torx. As long as your coherent enough to operate a screwdriver, you shouldn't have to worry about stripping any of the screws. If you do, a phillips head(square) will usually still remove them.

 

T

TheOnlyBFC

Free Member

Nov 29, 2007

680

92

28

Wuhan, WA

• Feb 26, 2008

• #8

I usually find little hidden surprises when i take off my belly pan. Like was said earlier, it's good to take it off and check everything over.

 

R

RockyMtn.Kris

Free Member

Dec 2, 2001

1,175

86

48

53

Spokane WA

• Feb 26, 2008

• #9

:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;:beer; And you should have it.

 

M

Mainer

Free Member

Nov 26, 2007

235

2

18

Maine

• Feb 26, 2008

• #10

my cousin was tight on time and just drilled a hole in the pan to get it out then found a plug at the harware store to fill the hole. ugly but it worked and he didnt miss the weekends ride

 

M

Mountain Doo-OLD

Free Member

Jul 5, 2001

662

18

18

Wyoming

• Feb 26, 2008

• #11

Mainer said:

my cousin was tight on time and just drilled a hole in the pan to get it out then found a plug at the harware store to fill the hole. ugly but it worked and he didnt miss the weekends ride

Click to expand...

Thats why we generally don't buy used sleds anymore!!

 

R

Rye23

Free Member

Feb 2, 2008

103

4

18

Grande Prairie

• Feb 27, 2008

• #12

I too am a A-arm expert on these sleds. Only third ride out and i hit a rock. Did in both upper and lower A-arms. Actually blew the shock right off!! good thing the shock never bent, the washer actually broke letting the shock pop off. I got really lucky there!! I too had to take the hood off and airbox and belly pan off. For the bottom rear a-arm bolt, i actually was able to reach in frim the top down with 2 wrenches tapped together to take it off. It was alot easier than taking off all that plastic! I also got lucky putting that same bolt back in. I was able to reach in from the frame in a hole behind the exhaust can and in between the recoil and the bulkhead with a magnet and the nut ducktapped to the end. About 5 min of messing around and i cought the threads. Then tightened with the two tapped wrenches from the top down again. I ACTUALLY HAD TO DO THIS TWICE AS I PUT THE BOTTOM A-ARM ON UPSIDE DOWN THE FIRST TIME! which scared the @#$! out of me because i thought i had a bent bulk head. I recomend not doing this unless you want to almost break your fists from putting them though the garage wall a couple of times