M1000 Twin Pipers Thread

07 m1000
3 post clutch with 80g weights, stock yellow spring
Jaws twins
Boondocker Box
Sno Pro air box
RKT clutch kit,38/36 with Red spring
3-6k feet

Rev are between 7200-7400 on long pulls.
Track speed is between 48-52mph
Temps are running at 1250
I want to get the revs up a bit more so im gonna to try and move the spring over one hole on the secodary to see if it helps. Very happy with this set up.

Curious on why were running such different weights from the post above but riding at the same elevation with similar set ups?

2007 M1000 162. Running D&D twins, d&d mod BD box. EGT's. Stock weights, RKT seconday setup and stock gearing. Tried to dial in last year, changed settings, added back pressure on silencer, went to stock controler etc. Temps would get up to 1250. But still not the performance I expect. At 2000' it runs like a top fuel dragster, unbelievable. At 6-7000' seams to be lacking air flow, would pull up to 8200 then fall back to 6900-7200. On a jackstand at 2000' would do the same and noticed that at the high rpm's would start to pull air plenum in as well as rubber tube then rpm drops off. Had extra vents in top of stock plenum and large mouth tube. Pulled powervalves out and now putting on D&D intake. This sled ran excellent with stock pipe, D&D silencer and RKT clutching.

Ajay

First trip out will be this weekend.

07 M1000
Jaws Twins
BD Box with Arctic Edge settings
Black Diamond Intake
Supreme Tool Secondary
Sno pro green spring
47 degree helix
stock weights

I will post when I get back to let you guys know how this setup works out.

Aaron

This setup works amazing.

I need to switch to a 45 degree helix to get my RPM up to 7450 I was only pulling 7250-7300

I ran up against a Rev XP 800 and a 1M sled with a 1000 Speedwerx motor in it and there was no touching me in a drag up the hill I pulled on both of them through the whole race.

Jaws by far are the best pipes ive ran.

Aaron

anybody happy with D&D twins at high altitude?

I've got a set available & thinking about putting them on but not sure if it's worth the hassle.

Any feedback?

Also looking for other D&D twin set-ups and how they are running!!!!!!!!

Ajay.

ttt

mountain_tamer said:

This setup works amazing.

I need to switch to a 45 degree helix to get my RPM up to 7450 I was only pulling 7250-7300

I ran up against a Rev XP 800 and a 1M sled with a 1000 Speedwerx motor in it and there was no touching me in a drag up the hill I pulled on both of them through the whole race.

Jaws by far are the best pipes ive ran.

Aaron

Click to expand...

i second that, jaws pipes are amazing once you go through a roll of heat tape under your hood lol, aside from that, i wouldnt go with anything else.

Any more updates on this set-up? I'm thinking of going this direction but might just run the RKT head & clutch kit with Y-pipe...I'm getting 42 MPH track speed with the y-pipe and clutch kit...thinking head may get me a few more. But, 50 MPH would be nice.

I don't know how anyone might be seeing over 7990 rpms since theres a hard rev limiter there. Meaning you can sweep thru it. D&D twins are nice and no matter how bad your clutching is they will still have more power and track speed. It is worth the time and effort to dial them in, not perfect but good to keep your rpms in a 3-400 rpm range. You have to go light on the heels. Use atleast the 060 or the XS-817 belt. AS the XS will drop rpms big. 250-500 in some cases, very durable. stock secondary spring works very well with many helix'. 85 grams IS silly heavy. But some roll that way. hahaha. Might wanna double check and spec the primary and its parts.....3 or 4 arm??? Jaws are very good, I have never had a bad set. I did however have 1 or 2 sets that mysteriously just made 5-8HP more than advertised and all the rest. Volume tested them and checked measurements, but without cutting them up no way of telling why?????? Greg has a very nice program to assist in developing the pipes to match the engine. With the lower operating rpms you can afford to go abit higher in helix without loosing any grip. Past 7800 and then it starts to show. The big 1000 can pull big helix , but only if thats your kinda riding. 46-40 full progressive 44-36, 42-38 seem popular. Seen a few 50/42-38,48/40-38. Straight 50 or 48 just for the quick snap up to higher trackspeed, but once past 20 mph it will never be in the 50 anymore. Atleast thats the way it was told to me. I like the heavier mid weighted arms since thats where i ride the most and it gives a good upshift and grip. Seems you have to have a finish rate of atleast 310 or 330 to get real good backshift during a climb with the heavy arms. Other thing that seems to work well is to lower the belt rediculously low in the secondary with stock helix. Just as long as it doesn't hurt the start, and it seems to XTEND belt life big. over 900 miles on 1 belt, but almost no stucks too or atleast no bad ones. Anyone try the speedwerx twins, I never read anything about them, never tried them myself but I seen they made real good power at elevation 8-9k test. On the D&D's make sure you have good back pressure, that is important. i think at 10-11k its 3/4-7/8 open on the barker. Watch for it to goo stupid lean if your way off , with not enuff BP. And if power seems to drop too quick during a climb or not what they should then your pipes could be stacking. Short test runs and you'll be safe for testing.

anyone running CPC twins?

Cpc twins

Cpc twins are made by jaws for cutler they are the same pipe.