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Aluminum Driveshaft and Hollow Jackshaft

J
Jan 12, 2017
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Curious as I have not heard a legit answer to this question. Does the Early Release Sno Pro come with these lightweight options in the driveshaft and jackshaft? I heard the early build MC`s are not getting these, but no one has said the sno pro`s released in January have them or not.
 

summ8rmk

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20b569d872baedaecf3b5d8de2401cba.jpg

2018 snopro drive shaft.
Aluminum? Looks like it to me.

Go Hawks!
 

sno*jet

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was that on the ER from JMC? i never looked. or is that off the russian vid?
i hope thats not the style their going with, that works for steel but idk about aluminum.
 

deanross

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Whew! I'm glad to hear it's not broken. I'm a little nervous about the hollow aluminum they're talking about in the MC. Didn't poo try that and people were buying older model steel and replacing them because they were so weak?
 
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BlueDevil

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It is might be aluminum in the pic? But the snopros will not have them here in the states
 

badaltitude

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Whew! I'm glad to hear it's not broken. I'm a little nervous about the hollow aluminum they're talking about in the MC. Didn't poo try that and people were buying older model steel and replacing them because they were so weak?

The poos run a hollow aluminum center section with glued in ends. The 3 piece design is what makes the poo driveshaft so weak. The ends basically tear out of the center. If cat keeps the basic design of the current shaft (single piece construction), but change the material to aluminum, it would be much stronger than the poo design. Splines would perhaps be the weakest link at that point, but I personally would not worry about it. And hollow shaft can in some cases be more resilient/stronger than solid shaft.
 

madmax

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I have heard a hollow shaft can be stronger in rotational torsion, but I don't think so on a direct hit from an early season land mine.
 

Vern

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From what I've read, it'll be hollow jackshaft and aluminum driveshaft. Hopefully they learned something from the failing pre-15 jackshafts and poo aluminum driveshafts, so that won't be an issue
 

Snow Fever

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I have a 2018 Mountain Cat with the 153 track. Here are some answers to some of the questions and my opinions.
1 - I am not brand loyal, I have had all brands and rode everything but the New 850 Doo. This New Cat is by far the best out of the box sled I have ever rode. I mostly tree ride with some hill climbing. (I was barried in an avalanche several years back and said screw that sh!t) I just spent 2 days in sicamouse and was riding in 2 1/2 to 3' of wet heavy powder and this thing is so easy to ride and gets around in the snow like nothing I have seen or rode before. It trully is unbelievable!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It takes off with so little effort even when the snow is piled up in front of the bumper, it just drives away without having to give it to get going, it takes off smooth as silk and blew me away every time at how easy it climbs on top of the snow. Every time we stopped it had very little to no snow piled on the hood as it seems to ride on top of the snow rather than plowing through it. (Disclaimer - I have slydog skis on it and have run these skis for many years on all my sleds but on this sled its unreal. (By the way I am coming off a 15' Snow Pro Limited 153" with some mods)
2 - Here is something I haven't read about this sled yet, it engages at 3000 - 3100 Rpm, very low, smooth and pulls hard from the start with very crisp throttle reponse. This is with it still being in break in mode. Motor runs way nicer than the Zuke at all Rpms and I really liked the old motor.
3 - I know some guys are going to roast me for this, but this is only my opinion so I will put it out there. I don't think any stock, normally asperated sled has enough power to turn a 3" track. Yes I know my sled was in break in mode but, it will not gain that much more when its broke in and when climbing on the bigger hills I was seeing about 38Mph track speed (too slow) and like I said this was in about waist deep wet powder. I have now removed the 3" and put on a 2.6 Power Claw with the fingers cut off. (Always cut the fingers off the 2.6 and it makes a big diffrence in performance. Compared 2 sleds that were the same, one with the fingers and one without and the one without worked noticebly better in all conditions but a hard packed roads) In the trees the 3" works great, but I have never had an issue on the 2.6. Again, just my opinion. The 2.6 modded works awasome. Now there is tons of room for air and snow to pass up at the front.
2 - The QS3 shocks work really good, I weigh 200Lbs geared up and I have 50Lbs in the front with the clicker on 1, 40Lbs front skid with clicker on 1, 110Lbs on the back skid clicker on 1 and you can crank the bumps.
3 - I had the skid out to swap the tracks and there is a lower mounting hole in the steel bracket in behind the tunnel for the front "H" arm but it is not drilled out through the aluminum tunnel. I think there is too much ski pressure so I drilled it out and from the testing I have done so far it seems better, just a little less ski pressure and with these New QS3 shocks you can easily almost stop it from weight transfering if you put the back one in the lock setting. Tried the lock setting and YES it is damn near locked out.
4 - Handle bars are too low stock and I'm not a tall guy, 5' 8" so I put the 6.5 riser in it. (Comes with a 4.5) its much better now.
5 - Mine is just about out of break in mode and at 6500' in the powder it was pulling 8100 Rpm. I have know idea what weights are in it but when the break in is done I will make sure its running 82 to 8300 under load.
6 - Top gear in the case is a 19T and its different than my 15' came with, The way this sled pulls in the bottom and mid I think it needs to be geared up 1 tooth for sure, bottom gear is a 50T same as my 15'.
7 - Jack shaft is noticebly larger diameter than a 15'. It is steel and I assume its hollow thats why its bigger
8 - Riding 2 days in wet powder, NO SNOW in the engine compartment, my 15' always gets some.
9 - Foot stirups don't jam up with snow like the old chassi.
10 - Riding creek beds and revines made me laugh all day how easy it is to hold a line. No comparision to my 15'. Its so easy and effortless.
11 - Getting to the engine compartment is way better and opens the area up way more with the side panels off.
 
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Snow Fever

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Ran out of room on the 1st post so here is part 2

12- Hood is super easy and fast to take off compared to the old style.
13 - Motor looks like it is lower and tilted back a bit more, didn't measure it but had the hood off it and my 15' and it sure looks like it is.
14- Rails are trimmed down for weight savings (hope they are still strong, had the new and old skid side x side and there are lots of differences, More curved rails on 18', Lower cross shaft hieght, cut down rails at the back, 2 less idler wheels, front idler wheels are moved ahead, track adjuster bolt is now a Torx screw (Sh!tty) "H" arms don't have corner gussets. Lots of this stuff is for weight savings, hopefully its still tuff.
15 - Heat exchanger in the tunnel is 2 strips now instead of one big one.
16 - The narrow running board seem good. I had the Cat narrow tube ones on my 15' .
17 - My sled has the LED headlight and its brighter than the one on my 15', nice white light when we rode out in the dark the 1st day.
18 - New gauge WAY BETTER, I already have used this gauge lots as I have a 14' Sno Pro 6000 C-Tec
19 - Brake rotor is larger and it has a way lighter pull to achieve the same stopping power.
20- Drop and roll drive shaft hangs WAY down under the tunnel, I know its a performance increase, just hope I don't kill it on a stump or rock.
21 - Drive shaft is steel, looks the same as my 15'
22 - Best part - The motor, if this turns out to be as good as my 6000 c-Tec, Then they have built the best 2 stroke motors PERIOD.

In summary, 2 things I didn't like at all, 3" track and handle bar hieght, both just personal preferance. The rest is AMAZING!!!!!!!!!

Can't believe Cat doesn't give much for details on all the changes they have done, this truly is a NEW SLED.:face-icon-small-hap
 
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CO 2.0

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Your setup needs worked on then. I ride at 11000ft and I get 40+mph track speed on my 16. I don't run anything stock in my clutching though, but that's every sled I own. It has plenty of power even up here to turn the 3" track. Which is still the best track out there IMO even with having a weight penalty compared to some others. The 3" has more than enough room up front with the dropped chaincase. People like Wyoboy1000 even run the 3" on the older sleds without the dropped case with 8 tooth drivers and get better results than the 7 tooth drivers. But around here our snow is lighter.

If you are 5'8" then the 4.5" riser should be plenty for you. I'm 5' 11" and run a 3.5" riser. The lower you can get the riser the more leverage and ability you will have on the sled. Your arms should be about fully locked out when standing straight up on the sled.

Good review though. Sounds like everyone is happy with the changes they made to the 18 so far.
 
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