R
What oil to run in my turbo Apex?? Can I get some comparable oil at NAPA??
Engine oil??????
- Thread starter rivershark33
- Start date
W
Don't run cheap napa oil in your turbo dude! High quality 5w30 without the energy conserving label.
J
you paid big money for a apex and a turbo and you want to save 10 to 30 bucks on oil??? Use good oil if not for motor and seals, then for piece of mind
A
R
The only thing I am getting at is NAPA carries all kinds of different brands of oil.. And the closest Yamaha dealer is 80 miles away..
R
what about the syntec oil they sell i know its bad to break in any motor on synthtic but after the break in is it alright to run it ?
R
So nobody puts oil in their sleds.. Come on I know everyone is not just running Yama lube..
T
I use mobil 1 0w-30.
4
yamalube is more convenient for me
0
Automotive oils are a no no for several reasons especially automotive synthetic's
You must have a motorcycle dealer somewhere near you that can sell you a case of motul
You must have a motorcycle dealer somewhere near you that can sell you a case of motul
Why would something such as Mobil 1 synthetic be a bad idea?
I was just headed out the door to buy some oil and this was at the top of my list.
Please, enlighten us as to why the auto synthetics are a no no for these motors........
There's no wet clutch like a motorcycle, so even the energy conserving oil may be a player.....???
Mobil 1 5w-30. 5000 turbo miles.
H
Please, enlighten us as to why the auto synthetics are a no no for these motors........
There's no wet clutch like a motorcycle, so even the energy conserving oil may be a player.....???
All that power your apex makes must pass through a gear set to get from the crank to the clutch. Automotive engines dont transmit their torque through a set of gears, so automotive motor oil has no extreme pressure additives to protect the pressure of the gear teeth from shearing the oil molecules apart, ruining the oil. If you change it often no problem, but dont let it go.
The second reason is the super slick "energy conserving" additives that get you better gas mileage in your car can make the one-way bearing in the starter cluth slip and then grab, ruining it over time.
If you have ever taken a starter mechanism apart in an RX1/Apex and seen how it functions you will realize your statement doesn't make much sense.
L
2nd that,the shear quality of automotive oils isn't designed to handle gears smashing together,,,now this isn't to say that automotive oil hasn't worked,just that it wasn't designed for the gears or the sprag clutch for the starter.
Motul 0/40 has been designed for a motorcycle engine,smashing gears and starter clutches,and that's my personal favorite,0 for cold weather staring and the 40 for the extra protection for the rod bearings and the extra heat that the turbo engine produces.
R
Ok so the local Polaris Dealer has some 0/40W full synthetic..That is what they use in their 4 strokes.. Everyone recomends 0/30w. Wouldn't 0/40 help protect, or would it be too thick..
Thanks
Tony
Thanks
Tony
L
I've been running the 0/40 for a couple years,doesn't hinder starting and the slightly thicker viscosity would,in my opinion,have a bit more protection from damaging bearings under big boost situations.I've seen rod bearings get greased from pre-ignition,so I see that as being a bit of a weak spot in the system.
P
I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 0/40 weight. It was highly reccomended to me by a Yamaha shop.
H
I know exactly how one of these clutches functions. If the oil has friction modifiers and is super slick the cam shaped bearings will not grab the ring gear surface as well when the starter turns it. How do you think it works?
