broken Cylinder bolt!!

Post a pic of your scenario.

How much stud is exposed? can you pull the jug off?

You can try getting a nut welded onto the easy out/stud, or what's left of it and turn it out. The nut ID should be slightly smaller than the stud OD. Clean it off, buzz it in. The heat transfer should help out a bit too. this technique has done me well EVEN on studs that were about 1/8" below the split line level (or case level). the weld doesn't bond too well to aluminum- so it just bridges back up to the nut.

Then re-drill, re-tap for a helicoil thread if they're nfg.

What kinda easy outs are you using? Twist in or pound in? For future reference, Snap-on makes a left handed cobalt drill bit/extractor set that works like a goddam. Cheap ones always break off.
PN XLDL10 every dude should have one for 50 buck.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1254&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

They also have twist sockets for removing studs nuts and bolts that are stripped.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=17831&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

or if it's a new sled- warranty?

Machine shop, carbide end-mill. Why did it break?

been there done that, what he said, clean area,weld a nut onto it and before it cools melt bees wax on the area for lube, then within 30 sec of welding slowly turn out.

The left over threads aren't any good? Can you screw in another bolt on top of the broken stud?
I see this on reciprocating compressors all the time. Stud will break off- I then grab a junker stud, chop the shank and head and leave myself with the threaded part. I then have the machinist drill me a pilot hole (1/3 max of OD) in the middle of it, then I screw the remainder into the blind hole where the broken stud is. Then I grab that same size pilot drill he used and drill perfectly center through the broken stud. Remove that pilot threader stud the man made ya, insert stud extractor (that you bought off the snap-on truck after the last post). But if the treads are all fuct, this ain't gonna work.

Clear as mud?


Or bring it to the machine shop and have them mack it out with that above-mentioned end mill. While they're there, put heli-coils in all your holes. Heli-coils are far stronger than original threads!

Asl them if they have an ultrasonic zapper machine- I forget what they are called....
They use ultrasonic sound waves to break up the metal you want broken up.
Remember to use proper lubricant on those studs- whatever your manual calls for- loctite blue or some sort of anti-seize.