XP Gearing (154" Track)

SylvanLaker · Dec 3, 2007

I just geared down from a 21-45 to a 19-45. It needed to be geared down. I though 20-45 wasn't enough so I elected to go one more tooth. I didn't want to get a new chain either hence I changed to top gear this time. Thinking I can run clicker two instead of three and get my track speed up.. What have you guys done yet??

I plan to put on a 163" track in the next few weeks and this gearing should be better for that as well..

Skidooer · Dec 3, 2007

Just ordered my 19T for my 154X

Thundy · Dec 3, 2007

Skidooer said:
Just ordered my 19T for my 154X

yup me too

Mosquito Flats · Dec 3, 2007

Went from a 21T to a 19T. Cut my clutch heat in half. 140 miles on belt and it looks good. Did need to add pin weight, as it was removed at the dealer. Not sure what BRP stock weights weigh, but started there and pulled 8150-8300 RPM's in powder at 7500 feet. Clicker 2. Track is a 154". I really, really like this sled.

johnny be bad · Dec 3, 2007

Mosquito Flats said:
Went from a 21T to a 19T. Cut my clutch heat in half. 140 miles on belt and it looks good. Did need to add pin weight, as it was removed at the dealer. Not sure what BRP stock weights weigh, but started there and pulled 8150-8300 RPM's in powder at 7500 feet. Clicker 2. Track is a 154". I really, really like this sled.

what did it do to your track speed and over all speed?

SWEETXPBEATCH · Dec 3, 2007

19 tooth

johnny be bad said:
what did it do to your track speed and over all speed?

better climbing than 21tooth & same top end. 80mph with first tank of fuel, rich, 10,000 feet.
It's only going to get better.

Idaho Slim · Dec 3, 2007

One thing to remember.

Tune for clicker 3 at your main riding elevation so that you can switch to 4 when you go up in elevation, or clicker 5 for >9500'.

If you are not on clicker 3-4 you are losing perfomance.

akhammer · Dec 3, 2007

I have a 146 everst and I changed mine to a 21. It made a huge difference with belt temp and overall top speed. I thought it was way to fast when I first rode it and couldn't understand what ski-doo was thinking when they geared it . good luck

BIG JOHN · Dec 3, 2007

gear

19/45 is for either heavier riders or higher elevations (9000'++)- the 20 top is solid gain over stock for most riders....BJ

The 146 needs a 21 and a shorter chain...BUT a 22 will help the lower elevation guys...

Boondocker-1 · Dec 3, 2007

BIG JOHN said:
19/45 is for either heavier riders or higher elevations (9000'++)- the 20 top is solid gain over stock for most riders....BJ

The 146 needs a 21 and a shorter chain...BUT a 22 will help the lower elevation guys...

When you go from 21/45 to 19/45 do you need to drop pin weight? (07' Summit 151X 8,000-11,000 Alt.)

BIG JOHN · Dec 3, 2007

Boondocker-1 said:
When you go from 21/45 to 19/45 do you need to drop pin weight? (07' Summit 151X 8,000-11,000 Alt.)

The 07 needs a 15W 20 top....for your elevation a head mod woud help LOTS-BJ

waflnutz · Dec 3, 2007

at 10,300 we were running clicker 4 and getting over-revs at 8450 to almost 8,600 rpms...too much. ratcheted down to clicker 2 and 7,700 at that elevation. clicker 3 seems correct at 10,000 feet. tested with two machines.

will be asking the experts though...

Original Tetonice · Dec 3, 2007

Like with any Summit the head mod is a must do as BJ stated.....as for the clutching rather than "chasing your tail" it's adviced to allow the sled to loosen up for a few 100 miles or so......Under load with 92 miles ie:climbing in deep snow im pulling 7950 to 8000 rpm at 9500 feet, which isn't bad for out of the box.

IMO if your having to click your clicker up to 4 or 5 than your not clutched efficiantly. If your pin weight is correct for your riding elevation you shouldn't have to touch your clickers.

If your turning more than 8100 RPM your loosing peak HP fast and furious as well.

I've already got a 19 Top Gear and a set of Goodwin pins and a head shave in the plans. I just need a few more 100 miles.

The one thing in common between Skidoo, Polaris , Yammi and Cat is there mountain setups are pretty predictable and for the most part have not changed very much over the years.

For those guy's complaining about Skidoo's famous clutch heat adding a set of R&M vents will help out alot.

OT

SylvanLaker · Dec 4, 2007

Wafl..

If your not holding a constant RPM when you reach your shifting point (high speed shift point) then your gearing is too low.. What gearing and track / sled do you have??

OT...

You got the same gearing as me, what weights are you running and what clicker / rpm do you pull at that elevation??

Ace Freely · Dec 4, 2007

BIG JOHN said:
19/45 is for either heavier riders or higher elevations (9000'++)- the 20 top is solid gain over stock for most riders....BJ

The 146 needs a 21 and a shorter chain...BUT a 22 will help the lower elevation guys...

....sooooo I am confused. According to my owners manual, pg 103, it states that I already have a 20t top gear. Correct??????

Ace

Ace Freely · Dec 4, 2007

Original Tetonice said:
I've already got a 19 Top Gear and a set of Goodwin pins and a head shave in the plans.
OT

....O.T. doesn't your 163 already come with the 19t top gear. Once again, quoting pg 103 of owners man......

Ace

Original Tetonice · Dec 4, 2007

Ace Freely said:
....O.T. doesn't your 163 already come with the 19t top gear. Once again, quoting pg 103 of owners man......

Ace

I asked the same question to the dealer twice and he said 20/45 is what's in my XP. And according to him it was to make up for the slower challanger track.....I didn't have any choices on the XP purchase since i bought one that someone had ordered and than bailed on. It's even got electric start which reminds me of my Yammie.

As for the pin weight 14 grams is what the dealer setup is on clicker #3 and with 92 miles on the XP under load and climbing in powder 7950 to 8000 rpm is what my XP is presently pulling at 8000 to 10,000 feet.

Once the XP get 300 mile i'll be taking it apart to inspect and make adjustments accordingly.....So far all i have done is add gas, oil, inspect the belt, tighten the chain and add some hood vents.

OT

MT_mtn_climber · Dec 4, 2007

OT - So you're saying they geared up because of the lighter challenger track compared to the powdermax? Seems silly for the five or so pounds difference....I know it's rolling mass but still.
By the way, is this year's Challenger doing better in the powder than last years. Just about everyone I know went with the Powdermax after last years fun.
My 163X with the powdermax and 19 gears seem to be very close on clutching, 8100 rpm @ 9k in clicker 3.... but I need to get about 100 more miles to tell what it's going to do and the motor seemed to be waking up as the day went on.

Original Tetonice · Dec 4, 2007

MT_mtn_climber said:
OT - So you're saying they geared up because of the lighter challenger track compared to the powdermax? Seems silly for the five or so pounds difference....I know it's rolling mass but still.
By the way, is this year's Challenger doing better in the powder than last years. Just about everyone I know went with the Powdermax after last years fun.
My 163X with the powdermax and 19 gears seem to be very close on clutching, 8100 rpm @ 9k in clicker 3.... but I need to get about 100 more miles to tell what it's going to do and the motor seemed to be waking up as the day went on.

I agree makes no sense to me either, and like i stated i didn't order the sled nor have i ever bought a sled from the dealer that had an XP snowcheck available, so who really know's....As for the Challanger "VERY STIFF" Lite Track im not a fan of the track at all for our light dry snow. It's also slower in the snow than the Powdermax when comparing the to, and throws one heck of a roost as well. The stiff challanger digs 1st and than climbs on top of the snow 2nd which imo is why the track is slower when compared powdermax.

I have a powdermax on the way.

XP Gearing (154" Track)

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