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2015 Viper Throttle Position Sensor Failing??

christopher

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Rigby, Idaho
Ok fellow viper lovers, need some assistance.
24 of us are on the SnoWest Forum ride in Canada and my new Viper didn't want to start after shutoff.

Story.
Once last week, for no reason at all, the viper did not want to fire up. It would just crank and crank. Then by chance we opened the throttle just a hair and it fired right up.

Fast forward one week later.

Sled has been running great.
In the middle of the ride this morning we stopped for a moment and the sled again failed to start. We spent a hour going through everything we could check to verify no Eire had come loose or melted from the turbo install. Everything looked fine.

285cd12c88b7592ac864631b8c3bcb3b.jpg


4535a58896e2d7ec126918eb7d5f4381.jpg


6b8ded563fa896df69b1a67d36b55c8f.jpg


We noticed that if we held the throttle open while cranking that the engine would catch just for a moment as we released the throttle paddle. This led us to start looking at the throttle paddle itself. If I pressed the base of the paddle where the pivot screw was forward the engine would start. If I released it and let it come backwards to its normal resting position, the engine would die.

Normal position with paddle towards the rider
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425329236.771271.jpg

Position when pressed forward
Throttle paddle still in idle position
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425329277.141145.jpg


What I need to know is what the switch inside the throttle is and what it does??

Is it serviceable or just a replaceable module??

Also noticed on the ride out, that is very hard to get the sled to return to idle as long as I was pressing the pivot point on the paddle forward. Engine wanted to stay in the 3-4,000rpm range. Almost felt like the throttle cable was binding and I would have to wiggle the paddle to get it to finally drop rpms.
 
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inspector01

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Mar 21, 2013
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MN
Throttle safety switch to verify you're actually pressing the throttle and not stuck throttle bodies. If can be bypassed by pressing it in permanently, and should just be an on/off switch I believe.

If the sled won't start without the switch "on", your TPS is likely reading open a little bit and the TSS is doing its job to stop it from starting when TPS is reading open and TSS is closed.
 
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yamahajohnson220

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Jan 4, 2008
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How is your throttle cable "play"? I had to adjust mine after putting on my kit. I must have twisted the throttle bodies when putting on the hoses.
 

christopher

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Nov 1, 2008
81,512
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Rigby, Idaho
How is your throttle cable "play"? I had to adjust mine after putting on my kit. I must have twisted the throttle bodies when putting on the hoses.


Yesterday I had NO problem with dropping back to idle.
Today the throttle thumb paddle seems "s******" than before. Wondering if we caught it when we put the nose and panels back on to come down off the mountain.

This hood is NOT designed to be removed in the field!
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
Ok fellow viper lovers, need some assistance.
24 of us are on the SnoWest Forum ride in Canada and my new Viper didn't want to start after shutoff.

Story.
Once last week, for no reason at all, the viper did not want to fire up. It would just crank and crank. Then by chance we opened the throttle just a hair and it fired right up.

Fast forward one week later.

Sled has been running great.
In the middle of the ride this morning we stopped for a moment and the sled again failed to start. We spent a hour going through everything we could check to verify no Eire had come loose or melted from the turbo install. Everything looked fine.

We noticed that if we held the throttle open while cranking that the engine would catch just for a moment as we released the throttle paddle. This led us to start looking at the throttle paddle itself. If I pressed the base of the paddle where the pivot screw was forward the engine would start. If I released it and let it come backwards to its normal resting position, the engine would die.

Normal position with paddle towards the rider
View attachment 251285

Position when pressed forward
Throttle paddle still in idle position
View attachment 251286


What I need to know is what the switch inside the throttle is and what it does??

Is it serviceable or just a replaceable module??

Also noticed on the ride out, that is very hard to get the sled to return to idle as long as I was pressing the pivot point on the paddle forward. Engine wanted to stay in the 3-4,000rpm range. Almost felt like the throttle cable was binding and I would have to wiggle the paddle to get it to finally drop rpms.

It is like TORS. Not sure if you ever had tors issues on the nytro but it was a common issue for people to see on the older sleds with turbos. I think you can get around it by adjusting your throttle lever freeplay to spec.
 
Y

yamahajohnson220

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2008
222
128
43
Yesterday I had NO problem with dropping back to idle.
Today the throttle thumb paddle seems "s******" than before. Wondering if we caught it when we put the nose and panels back on to come down off the mountain.

This hood is NOT designed to be removed in the field!

Mine was acting like what you are describing also and it was just the cable.
 

christopher

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But the cable wouldn't cause it not to start or to just shut off when you take your finger OFF the throttle paddle??
 

gunnerthesnowman

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Red Deer , Alberta
But the cable wouldn't cause it not to start or to just shut off when you take your finger OFF the throttle paddle??

If your throttle cable freeplay is to tight , your switch at your throttle handle is being made ( open or close ) thinks it should be at idle, BUT due to the cable being to tight the switch at the throttle bodys is not in sink , thinks the throttle valves are still open .
If its not throttle cable freeplay issues , one of the switches may of failed , if its like the apex , just bypass the tors.!
 

christopher

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I am replacing the little white module that has the spring loaded sensor in it. Mine pushes in and out smoothly with no "Click" to it. The spare here at the lodge has a very pronounced "Click" as the plunger slides in and out. Hopefully that is the source of the oroblem
 

gunnerthesnowman

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Nov 26, 2007
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Red Deer , Alberta
I am replacing the little white module that has the spring loaded sensor in it. Mine pushes in and out smoothly with no "Click" to it. The spare here at the lodge has a very pronounced "Click" as the plunger slides in and out. Hopefully that is the source of the oroblem

What he has spare parts for the Yamaha , he did not have a spare ViPec for my Pro , what the hell.

Hope it works for ya , or you may have to ride a doo , Sorry Dano, i did really like your back up sled :face-icon-small-hap
 

christopher

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Almost got this little bugger out of the Viper.
What a pain in the butt.
Soooo lucky the lodge had a full set of tiny Torx head drivers!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425336177.583650.jpg
 
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