136" yami track on on 136" summit 670

silvester · Jan 21, 2010

The Yamaha Track is off a 136" mt. light sled and has 1.75" lugs. Will this track work on a 96 summit 670? The track windows are within 1/8" and so are the drivers. The stock summit track was a 136" with 1.25" lugs. It looks like there is enough clearance to run the deeper lug. Any secrets to doing the track swap on the summit?

banditpowdercoat · Jan 22, 2010

Yes, the track will work as far as drivers.. Not 100% on the lug height though, it will be close. I had a 1.5" on my 96 and can't remember if there was enough room

fastfz583 · Jan 22, 2010

silvester said:
The Yamaha Track is off a 136" mt. light sled and has 1.75" lugs. Will this track work on a 96 summit 670? The track windows are within 1/8" and so are the drivers. The stock summit track was a 136" with 1.25" lugs. It looks like there is enough clearance to run the deeper lug. Any secrets to doing the track swap on the summit?

1.5 is about all ur gonna fit.....u could cut the lugs if its a free track. I believe most all 80/90's sleds had 2.52 pitch internal drive. enjoy.......

silvester · Jan 22, 2010

Great, It thought the track would fit, it will be tight though. It is a freebie so if we have to trim an 1/8" then I guess that's OK. Anyone ever do a track swap on one of these? Any tricks? The donor sled the track is off of was ridiculous to get the drive shaft out of. It was a junk machine so we had to go monster garage on it, however the skidoo has to go back together.

REKXP · Jan 22, 2010

Been a little while but to take the drive sprockets out you will need to remove the secondary, speedo, and three nuts on the bearing retainer. Then on the other side remove the chain case cover, loosen the chain tension, remove the gears and chain (pay attention to the gear orientation), and remove the chaincase. Two people are usually need but force the track up and towards the front of the bulkhead a bit to free up the sprockets and the move the sprockets to the chaincase side and then remove. Actually getting the track off is usually easier then reinstalling it

I have probably forgot a couple steps but this is the bulk of it. I have done this by myself with straps and 2x4s but it is a big pain. It is a lot easier with two people.

glassbreaker · Jan 22, 2010

track swap

Getting the skid out isn't too hard. After you do take off the 3 bolts under the secondary clutch holding the axle in place. After that, I found it was easier to open up the chaincase, take off the sprockets and chain, and slide the drive axle towards the chaincase side to get it off. The bearing on the end of the axle on the chaincase side is held on with a c-clip and you need the c-clip removal tool to get it out. If you get the clip and the bearing out the axle can be moved around a lot. The axle slides out towards the chaincase and then it can be pulled towards the rear of the machine on the clutch side and pulled out. Getting the skid out and back can be a bear sometimes but its all dooable.

silvester · Jan 22, 2010

Thanks for the pointers. I sure hope the drive shaft slides out after the C clip is removed. That donor yamaha driveshaft was flat out stuck. We'll probably be giving her a go around this weekend, unless the snow really piles up. Anyone run a 1 3/4" track on a 96 summit without a drop and roll. It looks like it will just barely make it.

fastfz583 · Jan 22, 2010

silvester said:
Great, It thought the track would fit, it will be tight though. It is a freebie so if we have to trim an 1/8" then I guess that's OK. Anyone ever do a track swap on one of these? Any tricks? The donor sled the track is off of was ridiculous to get the drive shaft out of. It was a junk machine so we had to go monster garage on it, however the skidoo has to go back together.

remove secondary, remove left side bearing cage, remove chaincase cover, remove gears, wiggle drive to remove chaicase bearing, remove suspension bolts and flipper' on her side and viola!!! coupla F-bombs and she's out!

Zachmandu · Jan 23, 2010

The '98/'99 Summit X's had a 1 3/4" track from the factory with 9-tooth drivers. It is a TIGHT fit, and a royal pain to get the track/drive axle installed, but once everything is fitted, it will work. Sometimes, it is easier to remove the whole chaincase to facilitate installation. This gives you a little more "wiggle-room" as it leaves a bigger hole to slide the drive axle through. Only seven more bolts, which will save you alot of aggrivation. There is also an aluminum angled piece riveted onto the bulkhead directly in front of the drivers. You can remove this for slightly more track clearance as well.

silvester · Jan 23, 2010

Thanks for the expertise...we shall experience the tightness soon enough

banditpowdercoat · Jan 23, 2010

Getting the lower Snap ring that holds the lower bearing in can be a PITA. Sometimes, I found it acctually easier to pull chaincase

silvester · Jan 24, 2010

Done!

Thanks for all the tips and pointers. We got'er done last night so we could ride today. Things went pretty straight forward. The 1 3/4" track would not clear though, we removed the angled piece and still couldn't get the drive shaft in with the big lugs. We ended up doing the ridiculous task of trimming each lug with a skil saw down to 1 1/2". It was a free track so it was going in one way or another. Only slight hang ups came from some slight buggering up of the spline on the drive shaft during installation which had to be filed to get the gears back on. Getting the bearing all seated on the clutch side was a pain too. The snap ring wasn't too bad once I figured out to rotate it so the holes were on the top side of the shaft, then I could use a set of 90 degree snap ring tools and she came out easy. The sled did decent in the powder today, I mean it actually was able to be ridden through 3-4ft of powder. I was really surprised. The suspension might need some more help and it would have been nice to have the full 1 3/4" track. For now we need to get the clutch engagement down. It engages at 4500 RPM I'd like it down to 3500 RPM, how does a guy do this on a ski doo? Is that a primary spring like on my cat?

rusty_jigawahowski · Jan 24, 2010

ahhh the smell of perfectly good track being hacked!

Zachmandu · Jan 25, 2010

silvester said:
Thanks for all the tips and pointers. We got'er done last night so we could ride today. Things went pretty straight forward. The 1 3/4" track would not clear though, we removed the angled piece and still couldn't get the drive shaft in with the big lugs. We ended up doing the ridiculous task of trimming each lug with a skil saw down to 1 1/2". It was a free track so it was going in one way or another. Only slight hang ups came from some slight buggering up of the spline on the drive shaft during installation which had to be filed to get the gears back on. Getting the bearing all seated on the clutch side was a pain too. The snap ring wasn't too bad once I figured out to rotate it so the holes were on the top side of the shaft, then I could use a set of 90 degree snap ring tools and she came out easy. The sled did decent in the powder today, I mean it actually was able to be ridden through 3-4ft of powder. I was really surprised. The suspension might need some more help and it would have been nice to have the full 1 3/4" track. For now we need to get the clutch engagement down. It engages at 4500 RPM I'd like it down to 3500 RPM, how does a guy do this on a ski doo? Is that a primary spring like on my cat?

Did you try and install it with the chain-case removed?? I really thought that you would have gotten it to work. Sorry if I got your hopes up and steered you wrong....

silvester · Jan 25, 2010

nope, didn't take the whole case out, just the cover, gears, bearing, ect.

akyogi · Feb 3, 2010

have a 96 670 with 8 tooth drivers and a 136 x 2" track that clears fine.

Zachmandu · Feb 3, 2010

In an S-chassis - A 2" track will clear with 8-tooth drivers, but will NOT clear with stock 9-tooth drivers......

banditpowdercoat · Feb 4, 2010

Zachmandu said:
In an S-chassis - A 2" track will clear with 8-tooth drivers, but will NOT clear with stock 9-tooth drivers......

9 tooth and a D&R it will fit

Zachmandu · Feb 4, 2010

"9 tooth and a D&R it will fit"

Yup!

Does anybody even make a kit for S-chassis sleds anymore?? Although a pain to do, I have always done a D&R on all of my S sleds.

SnoKrazy · Feb 4, 2010

With a small modification a 1 3/4in will work

Had the shop turn the drivers down on their lathe about 3/16 in on my '96 Summit. The 1 3/4 in track worked fine then. (over 3000 miles with no problems)
I would also recommend porting the track before installation as it will relieve some pressure caused by close tunnel clearance at the drivers, also seems to let the track turn easier.
Do a search on here, there was a complete guide to changing the track with pictures, even showed installation of a drop and roll kit.

136" yami track on on 136" summit 670

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