Ski-doo turbo set-up's / results

Trying to generate a thread to create some info for others, and myself to improve on the performance of their boosted sleds. I don't sell anything, and understand if there are people who do not wish to share their set-ups. So this is what I am running and how it works:

Sled 1:
'04 Rev Chassis, Van Amburg Tunnel/d&r, Mountain Addiction Skid, 900 Crankshop (Doo 800 bottom end), CPI Turbo kit, 150 x 16 x 2.5 camo extrm, 10 lbs boost, 114 fuel, 125lbs cranking compression, 19/43 gearing, 5 psi fuel pressure

Primary
P-85
78 Gram weights
160-320 spring

Secondary
Team
Mountain Magic helix ( not sure on the angle, but it has worked great on every application)
Yellow team spring

Carbs
factory 800 40mm flats
360 mains
17.5 pilots
factory needles in middle position
power jets mounted in air box outlet

Results:

Riding approx 6500 ft (BC areas) and -5 to -10c temp it is working excellent on the top end. Easy to tune with the power jets. Pulls 75 mph+ climbing in 2ft fresh, good base. Little too fat on the bottom and mid, lean on trail. Rev's 8200 rpm. Engagement too low ( 3200rpm) No belt problems so far, but will slip in deep snow at engagement. Not very snappy when in low rpms, but turbo does spool fairly quick. Rave valve bellows are failing. Have stripped two valves and covers as well. Need to do something to help with wheeling problem....

Sled 2
'08 XP, Turbo Performance 66 kit, 154 X package, all stock other than turbo, 20 tooth top gear ( can't remember on the factory size bottom gear), factory head not cut, 114 fuel, 10 psi boost, 5 psi fuel pressure

Primary
TRA
Dynamo Joe clutch kit
Full thread pin ( 21 grams I think)
Green/pink spring (230/350)
Clicker 3

Secondary
Dynamo Joe helix and spring for stock XP

Carbs
factory 40mm carbs
factory needle, pilot
340 mains
power jets mounted in intake of carb

Results:
Same conditions. Lean on trail on mid (can run half choke and it keeps it cool enough). Fat on top end at elevation, does not seem to respond to power jet as well as the 900 ( too big of main jet I'm guessing) pulls 8000 to 8200 rpm, engagement 4200 rpm. Approx 60 to 65 mph track speed ( hard to see gauge). Too fat on bottom at elevation and mid, makes for hairly situation when boost comes on and climbing ( too on/off, creates excessive wheeling when climbing). Slower spooling than other sled. Snappier on bottom than the 900. No problem on exhaust valves.

Both sleds need work on rear skid to aid in wheeling when climbing in deep/steep powder. The parking lot elevations at approx 2500', most areas are 6300 to 7000'.

Thats it, the set-ups are by memory, and I can verify if something seems off. Sled 1 - need to do something about the Rave valves. If I isolate them, how do I do it. Sled 2 - I could use some suggestions on the XP set-up, as the boost seems to come on too late and makes it a little less fun to ride. Rear skids, what are people using? If stock, how are you setting them up? My jetting on the XP needs some work, will 330's do it? I'm not running BOV's, and run-on is not really an issue.

That is a long post, sorry bout that. I'm not a turbo guru, just have the turbo bug and can't get over it....

Thanks for any help, and hope people chime in with some other set-ups

Cheers

badass1000 said:

what fuel presure are you runing at a idle? is that fuel presure with the vacume line connected or not?
I am runing 380 mains in my xp and had to turn the fuel presure clear down to just over 2psi at a idle with vacume line hooked up to get it to quite loading up at higher elevations.
mine seemed to have what I consider bad runon with too stiff of a spring in the bov. I have a tial with the lightest spring they have. I cut one turn off and the bov opened a little more, but not enough and still had run on. Now with two turns cut off the spring the bov opens alot better and not much run on. usually nun and once in awhile seems like it has some.
Throttle reponce (when it does not load up and sputter) is just like a really good runing all motor sled and it just keeps building power from their. it has alot of bottom end power and just keeps pulling smooth.
I have a 154 with a stock skid. it is a wheelie monster. Going to have to try to do something to get it to quite wheelieng, but that is what happens with alot of power and a shorter track.
I will post up more on my setup and how the tuning is going in a few days.

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I have my fuel pressure set at 5lbs on both sleds. Line is run from the air box to the fuel regulator, and another from the gauge to the regulator. 380's seem pretty big compared to what I am running, what are you running for EGT's? I'm only hitting 1050 to 1100F with the 340's

TTT

Anyone care to share? How about recommendations on spare parts to keep us turbo guys from getting the strap?

For me, if I keep the raves need to have a least one spare complete set. They have failed twice on the 900 on as many rides. Anything else? Are people breaking chains, are pipes splitting, etc? What about reeds? I haven't had any trouble yet, but should I be having spares on the hill?

Just looking for info, hate getting pulled out on the strap, and want the sleds to run as well as possible when I get a chance to get out.

390's, holly chit. I was thinking about fabbing up a cold air intake as well, as I am sucking from the foot well, which is no good once the snow gets deep. But I would never be able to pull the size of jet, it would fall on its face. What is he running for EGT's?

I've looked into the suspension thing, and I think two good options are right here in Alberta. The Racer's edge kit, and the Nextech kit.

How do the two kits you guys are running compare? Auto vs. Aero?

On your raves did you do anything to them when you put your kit on? tie wire, glue, etc?

There is slight run-on, but nothing I would call bad. What type of BOV are you using.

What are you guys running for set-ups? I assume we ride the same areas...

I have the same BOV in my shop that I bought for the 900 project, but never put it on.

I would use crazy glue ( or something similiar) and glue the bellow to the valve and cap. Then use SS wire to tighten down ( the factory springs may work) I'm having problems with the actual bellow riping, so maybe the delete is the best way. Still need to seal it though.

gus bohne said:

Todd, your not going to solve it like that either, remeber ,, many have tried to resolve this issue for 20 years to no avail.

wire cuts thru eventually, the bellows burst too.
try it with them open, you will have to rejet the pilots down a size for response to come back to normal.

Why would someone want to risk the ride on a quaetionable ex valve ??

More and more folks are jsut deleting and realizing the boost comes up faster and at lower rpms WITHOUT them in..
Don't take anyones word,,, I say try it for yourself then YOU decide..
Either way,, YOU know for yourself which is best for your needs

Love the 900 ,, well done ..
Gus

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Gus,

I'm convinced. OK, how do I do this. I have read several other posts to the deletion, but maybe I'm a dumba$$. First off, do I leave the valve in or out. If I leave it in this is what I was thinking;
- cut down the valve rod and re-thread to correct length
- use o-ring on rod to seal off from chamber
- tighten down on valve to seal against valve housing
- get rid of everything else
- how do you seal of the 2 small holes in the valve housing? I assume this is where the factory system fills the bellows with pressure to up them?

Will this work or am I missing something?

If you take the valve out completely will it not effect the exhaust port design and engine won't run correctly? Not an engine builder so this may be a dumb question.....

canucklehead said:

You need to leave the valve in Todd but have it fully opened. There are kits available to do this. I had a friend machine me up these spacers to test.

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DWHalverson said:

That right there is all that is needed. Good job:beer;.

Dave

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Canuckle,

A picture is worth a thousand words....Thank-you very much. I will be doing this to both sleds immediately.

There, major problem solved, hopefully I can get ride of the nickname "towstrap"

Cheers gents....:beer;:beer;