2000 MM700 Carb Switch Issue

MNpowderfiend · Dec 14, 2009

Ever since I put on my 4" riser bar and new throttle cable, the carb switch doesn't work. For right now, I've unplugged it and bypassed it. Last night I cleaned the contacting surfaces of the switch and the rack arm, and it still sputters when I lay off the throttle.

Is there an adjustment for these carb switch? I loooked in the little booklet that came with the sled and could not find anything. It's part 61 on the microfiche, so it's only a $30 part, no biggy. But I'm hoping to become informed about any adjustment.

Thanks.

Eric

SD Coyote · Dec 14, 2009

There is no adjustment to the switch, just the throttle cable. You have to have a little slack in the cable where it fastens to the carburetor arm, at idle, or the switch will activate when getting off the throttle. I did have a bad switch on a new sled, but yours seems odd to go bad right after changing throttle cables.

carpainter29 · Dec 14, 2009

Throttle cable is too tight.

snowdad4 · Dec 14, 2009

no adjustments, as stated above, but there are continuity tests for both the carb switch and the switch at the throttle perch. specs available on request. typically its a too tight cable issue, also mentioned. what did you use for longer cables?

SD Coyote · Dec 14, 2009

snowdad4 said:
no adjustments, as stated above, but there are continuity tests for both the carb switch and the switch at the throttle perch. specs available on request. typically its a too tight cable issue, also mentioned. what did you use for longer cables?

Snowdad, your info is always top notch! I just wanted to mention about the continuity test. When my switch failed, back when my sled was new, two diff dealers tested the prob switch. Both said the switch tested good, but 2nd dealer said it's under warranty, I'll put a new one on. Rode that sled 6 more years with no problem.

MNpowderfiend · Dec 15, 2009

Yup, I've got slack

I've got plenty of slack in the cable, that was the first thing I looked at. (A buddy of mine also has the same sled, he also had to replace the switch when it was nearly new in 2001, thus, he got it under warranty.)

I used RSI cables when I put the risers on.

For all I know, I banged the switch when the carbs were upside down while rejetting last year, which is when I put the longer cables on.

snowdad4, do you have continuity specs you can send me? I've got an electronic volt/amp/ohms meter. Also, what switch is at the throttle perch?

Any help would be great, thanks guys.

Eric

snowdad4 · Dec 15, 2009

if you look at the throttle perch, under where the thumb flipper pin is, you will see a white cap.did you take the flipper off when adding new cables? if you were to remove the pin and flipper, you will notice an oval shaped raise in the perch. the throttle switch is located inside the perch. if you were to grab the flipper by the pin, it should move left and right about an 1/8-1/4. the pin actuates the switch and its tied to the tors system. follow the wires from your kill switch to the connector and unplug it. using your continuity tester, + goes to the black/yellow pinin the connector from the perch, - to the black pin. continuity should show when throttle is depressed, no cont. when not. check the carb switch using same wires for continuity, only no continuity while pressing throttle, and continuity when not operating throttle.

MNpowderfiend · Dec 16, 2009

Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at it.

Eric

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2000 MM700 Carb Switch Issue

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