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Clutch rebuild

S
Jun 18, 2009
7
0
1
Anyone have a how to on taking apart, and rebuilding both clutches(p85) ? Tools you need or dont need etc. Lots of great info on the site but cant find anything on clutches. Trying to do all the work on my sled myself, still learning.... thanks.
 
Last edited:

retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,350
295
83
Calgary
For the primary you need a clutch puller, clutch holding tool to mount on your bench, spider removal tool, spider jam nut tool, spider button tool and a torque wrench capable of reading 235 ft. lbs. For the secondary clutch you need a good set of snap ring pliers. I think that is about it for tools if you need to dismantle the clutches completely.

Procedure on primary is to mount the clutch in the bench mounted holder and remove the 6 cover retaining bolts first. Check the clearances of the spider buttons to towers. There should be .002" clearance. If you need to place shims under the buttons then loosen the spider jam nut and the spider. Unscrew the spider and note the spacers in place under it. Using the button removal tool remove the buttons on the leading edge buttons and place shims under them as required. Shim kits are available at dealer. Screw the spider back onto shaft making sure the 'X's line up with each other and the spacers are in place under the spider. Torque on spider is 200 ft. lbs. Torque the spider jam nut to 235 ft. lbs. Check the weights for wear and cleanliness. They should swing freely and have no flat spots or depressions worn in the face. They should not be sloppy on the pins. If you are replacing weights and/or pins note which way the nuts on the pins are facing as they have to go back the same direction. Rollers should spin freely with no side slop or up and down movement. Check cover bushing for excess wear. A lot of people replace the primary spring every year but you can check the free length to see if it is in spec. Align the X on the cover with the other X on the spider and tighten bolts. Wash clutch sheaves with hot water and soap. Clean clutch taper with brake cleaner or similar fluid as long as it is not oily or leaves a residue. Also clean crankshaft end with same fluid. Do not put any substance on either one. They go together dry.

On the secondary clutch push down on the helix and remove the large snap ring. Allow the helix to come up and remove it. It will turn a bit because it is preloaded a third of a turn. You will have to preload the spring the same amount and direction when you put it back together so take note of it. Also before you remove the helix altogether check which hole the spring is in in the clutch. Usually no. 2 but have a look. Check slider buttons and helix ramps for abnormal wear. Check large bushing for excessive wear on it. Clean everything and put a thin covering of grease on the inside of the helix. Excess will go into the grooves. Don't lube anything else. Put everything back together remembering to preload the spring 1/3 turn. Put grease on the jackshaft where the clutch slides on.
 
P
Nov 16, 2009
95
4
8
Nashwauk, MN
For the primary you need a clutch puller, clutch holding tool to mount on your bench, spider removal tool, spider jam nut tool, spider button tool and a torque wrench capable of reading 235 ft. lbs. For the secondary clutch you need a good set of snap ring pliers. I think that is about it for tools if you need to dismantle the clutches completely.

Procedure on primary is to mount the clutch in the bench mounted holder and remove the 6 cover retaining bolts first. Check the clearances of the spider buttons to towers. There should be .002" clearance. If you need to place shims under the buttons then loosen the spider jam nut and the spider. Unscrew the spider and note the spacers in place under it. Using the button removal tool remove the buttons on the leading edge buttons and place shims under them as required. Shim kits are available at dealer. Screw the spider back onto shaft making sure the 'X's line up with each other and the spacers are in place under the spider. Torque on spider is 200 ft. lbs. Torque the spider jam nut to 235 ft. lbs. Check the weights for wear and cleanliness. They should swing freely and have no flat spots or depressions worn in the face. They should not be sloppy on the pins. If you are replacing weights and/or pins note which way the nuts on the pins are facing as they have to go back the same direction. Rollers should spin freely with no side slop or up and down movement. Check cover bushing for excess wear. A lot of people replace the primary spring every year but you can check the free length to see if it is in spec. Align the X on the cover with the other X on the spider and tighten bolts. Wash clutch sheaves with hot water and soap. Clean clutch taper with brake cleaner or similar fluid as long as it is not oily or leaves a residue. Also clean crankshaft end with same fluid. Do not put any substance on either one. They go together dry.

On the secondary clutch push down on the helix and remove the large snap ring. Allow the helix to come up and remove it. It will turn a bit because it is preloaded a third of a turn. You will have to preload the spring the same amount and direction when you put it back together so take note of it. Also before you remove the helix altogether check which hole the spring is in in the clutch. Usually no. 2 but have a look. Check slider buttons and helix ramps for abnormal wear. Check large bushing for excessive wear on it. Clean everything and put a thin covering of grease on the inside of the helix. Excess will go into the grooves. Don't lube anything else. Put everything back together remembering to preload the spring 1/3 turn. Put grease on the jackshaft where the clutch slides on.

Man, you must have been in the garage with me here about an hour ago, just did both primary and secondary!!!
 
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