Ohh Crack!

Had that happen on my 900.... warranty repair (replaced fuel tank).

Could probably fix that with some plastic weld or epoxy.

First : I'd ask ADB for a replacement but I'm already guessing what their answer will be... this is if you get one back. If they get back to you they may say : "You, boy, need a new ADB tank ! We'll quote you on a new 45L Tank: 750$ USD plus whatever's gonna be shipping + 37,50$ manhour fee for calling DHL finding out how much shipping is and write it on the quote. (Sorry guys I had to say it !!!)

Second : I'd try welding it or glueing it but I think this is UHMW plastic, can anybody validate that ? Hard to weld I think and you'll have to find a fuel resistant glue...

Third : here's your permanent fix (I, personnally, like permanenet fix !) : A dry break Motorcycle Conversion Kit (that you need anyway if you ever find that the 45L tank is a problem going up hill when less than 1/3 of the tank left (after 0.6 second, all the gas runs to the back, leaving the stock fuel pick-up in the air - motor shuts off running out of gas... NOT GOOD for your engine but definately a good thing for the sledders who get a good laugh at you watching you from the bottom of the hill while enjoying their beer.) and want to fix the problem with the Walbro fuel pick-up mod). Since I throw these babies in I have never had a problem.

Here's the link if you want to buy one : http://www.justgastanks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_80&products_id=491
You'll also need the back-up Ring : http://www.justgastanks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_80&products_id=897

We found that the cork seal & O-Ring provided with these parts don't create a good seal so I designed a Gasket set and had it water jetted out of 1/8" thick fuel resistant rubber. I can already tell it will work.

You'll need a 3-1/2" Hole saw, longer stainless steel flat socket head cap screw bolts (cauz the ones they give you in the kit are too short) and you'll have to cut a bigger gas cap opening in your back cowling.

You know when you have a hawk nothing is easy... that's why we all need to share our own experiences...

Here's a pic of mine.

Good luck.

You'll need a plastic welder to start... basically a real small heat gun/torch.
Material is the critical part with this, the filler rod has to be the same as the material you're welding. If it's different, it won't hold. Practice on some non-critical stuff and get comfortable with it before you attack that crack.

Epoxy.... JB weld will probably hold, but there's a whole host of plastic-specific epoxies and solvents that work real well. Epoxy you use depends on the material you're fixing. Call a plastic supply shop around town and they can probably help you out with figuring out what kind of plastic it is, as well as what epoxy to use.

First step is to remove and wash out the fuel tank... definately don't want to use the plastic welder with any gasoline fumes in teh tank.

Get a grip people

go to IMS gas tanks for $65 get a Dry brake replacment cap and all done. Better than boogering up you tank

that dry break looks sexy on your tank

RudeAwakening said:

that dry break looks sexy on your tank

Click to expand...

That does look prety cool, probably the easiest and best fix.

FYI the tanks are made from PE

The gas cap looks realy good and it is the first step if you have a 12 gal and want to make the conversion of the walbro pick up that thierry is making.I would like to do this conversion but need some more money.If you want to repair the crack,i have try jb weld on a widetrack tank and it works good for me.

Thought I'd share this with you guys, I was screwing around putting a new fuel resistant fuel line in my tank because the other one I threw in last year was all dry and hard... And I happened to have some brake cleaner kicking around at the end of the table and thought I'd give it a try on the outside of the tank... WORKS AWESOME. Looks like the tanks has just been shipped from ADB. So if you want your tank to look new again, spray the whole thing with brake cleaner wipe it off and you'll git-r-dun in no time. Don't know if it attacks the plastic, nothing blew up or melted so it sure looked good enough to me ! I sprayed the whole thing with Motul Silicone Clean afterwards. That thing smells like Froot Loops, it's soooo great !

Read the can T.

Brake cleaner can damage plastic, rubber, and painted parts.

Simple Green!!

You're right T. !

My can says :
"Do not use on polycarbonate plastics such as Lexan" ... " May also be harmful to other plastics, rubber and paint.

Since it's Polyethylene (PE), I think the tank will survive ok !
Sure cleans nice though...

Polycarbs (Lexan, Macrolon, ABS) are particularly susceptible to solvents (Toluene, THF, alcohols). They craze the surface and will cause a weak point that will lead to cracking. This property can be used to inspect injection molded parts for molding stresses.

Brake cleaner will also disintegrate natural rubbers (O-rings) (Though most are Buna-N anymore).

I wouldn't take the chance with either. Stick with a non-solvent cleaner like Simple Green or Goo Gone.

not like i know anything about plastics anyways