F
I've been whacking and tightening it and it hasn't budged. Using Polaris tool and I'm hammering and tightening just like the manual say's and I'm not having any luck. It's as tight as I can get it. Any suggestions???
Clutch won't come off
- Thread starter f15ejedi
- Start date
M
I ride a summit XP but a trick that I found works really well for removing clutches is:
1) wrap teflon tape around the threads on your puller
2) remove bolt holding clutch onto motor
3) tip your sled on its side and pour hot water (hydraulic oil will also work but creates a mess) into the hole which the clutch bolt goes.
4) insert and tighten puller and the clutch should come free. You are basically using hydraulic pressure to remove the clutch which exerts more force on the crank stub then the puller itself. You may have to repeat a couple of times but it always works for me.
You can also heat the clutch up with a heat gun and get it good and hot (not torch hot but hot - you do not want to change the temper of the metal) which will also help. If this trick does not work do everything the same, but do not pour any water into the hole. put some grease on the tip of the puller instead and see if that works. I find both methods work for me.
1) wrap teflon tape around the threads on your puller
2) remove bolt holding clutch onto motor
3) tip your sled on its side and pour hot water (hydraulic oil will also work but creates a mess) into the hole which the clutch bolt goes.
4) insert and tighten puller and the clutch should come free. You are basically using hydraulic pressure to remove the clutch which exerts more force on the crank stub then the puller itself. You may have to repeat a couple of times but it always works for me.
You can also heat the clutch up with a heat gun and get it good and hot (not torch hot but hot - you do not want to change the temper of the metal) which will also help. If this trick does not work do everything the same, but do not pour any water into the hole. put some grease on the tip of the puller instead and see if that works. I find both methods work for me.
Make sure that you have the correct puller also. I was using one that was supposed to work but ended up having too much of a shoulder on it so that when I tightened it the end of the puller wasn't reaching the crank stub
F
Thanks for the tip. I can't put it on it's side until I get the front end put back together. I'm waiting on parts.
M
There is lots of help on this topic. The teflon tape, and fluid in the bolt hole is great, but also apply lots of heat to the inside sheath of the clutch. It will pop off unexpectedly. Mine was a ***** to get off!! Do not wrap on the end of the clutch tool. Hard as hell on your crank assembly. Cases in particular. I think maybe a little tap with a mallet, may be required, but try to be gentle on her. Also apply grease to the end of your clutch puller. Good luck!!
When we tried to get the primary off of my buddies 900 it was a challenge...
Like said above,
wrap the puller threads in teflon tape (be generous)
grease the entire shaft, especially the tip just to make sure everything is protected
lay the sled up on its side and fill the hole with water
then thread the puller in by hand as far as you can
One guy hold the clutch holder (and sled) and the other guy turn the puller with a large wrench...
We wound up using a 1/2 inch drive, 20 inch long breaker bar and after 3 attempts (using this method) it finally popped off, but it took 2 guys everything we had before it finally popped loose.
Good luck :beer;
Like said above,
wrap the puller threads in teflon tape (be generous)
grease the entire shaft, especially the tip just to make sure everything is protected
lay the sled up on its side and fill the hole with water
then thread the puller in by hand as far as you can
One guy hold the clutch holder (and sled) and the other guy turn the puller with a large wrench...
We wound up using a 1/2 inch drive, 20 inch long breaker bar and after 3 attempts (using this method) it finally popped off, but it took 2 guys everything we had before it finally popped loose.
Good luck :beer;
Last edited:
D
Is it ok to use an impact gun? I've read it's not recommended but I've seen quite a few shops do this, and it worked pretty good when they did it. Is this a safe practice, or is it like rapping on the end of the puller with a sledge?
From all the posts I have read on the subject, it would seem that putting an impact anywhere near the crank is not a good idea, there are just too many different things that can be adversely effected in the LONG run... In all but the most severe cases, you should be able to get a bolt out or clutch off with mere hand tools.
Here's another interesting thread on the matter if anyone would care to read it, actually some pretty decent info.:beer;
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43530
K
If its a 900 they are torqued to a 100 lbs or something and are very hard to break loose, make sure you have the right puller and a buddy holding the clutch in place i used a rubber filter wrench then put about a 3-6 foot cinch on and pull hard it should come off use a breaker bar tapping it a bit might help. JMO
Your clutch is torqued to at least 80ftlbs.
It is seriously on there.
Do not use an impact wrench. Using an impact wrench is the same as taking a sledge hammer to the crank bearings.
I used a 3' piece of steel pipe on the end of my 1/2" by 30" long breaker bar.
It took pretty much everything I had to pop it off. Sounded like a shotgun when it finally broke loose.
It is seriously on there.
Do not use an impact wrench. Using an impact wrench is the same as taking a sledge hammer to the crank bearings.
I used a 3' piece of steel pipe on the end of my 1/2" by 30" long breaker bar.
It took pretty much everything I had to pop it off. Sounded like a shotgun when it finally broke loose.
N
If your wanting the clutch off before then you can soak some newspaper in water and stuff it in the hole. Just make sure you clean out everything before putting it pack together. You don't want any newspaper left in their.
-Nolan
H
All other procedures aside..I have done them, this is how i get a stubburn one off.
I use a special polaris tool (part# wood handle on 2# hammer) stick it through the primary and wedge up against bulkhead/tunnel (anything solid) be sure right puller is used and greased at tip! put 5' cheater bar on and go to town. Caution, be sure and have someone with catchers mitt and mask ready to catch it. It WILL fly off. <-------this works every time.
I use a special polaris tool (part# wood handle on 2# hammer) stick it through the primary and wedge up against bulkhead/tunnel (anything solid) be sure right puller is used and greased at tip! put 5' cheater bar on and go to town. Caution, be sure and have someone with catchers mitt and mask ready to catch it. It WILL fly off. <-------this works every time.
D
So you just put the wooden handle through the openings on the clutch? I always figured this was rough on a clutch, and may throw off the balance, break one of the arms the bolts go through, etc. If the general consensus on this site is that it's ok, then I'll just use that method from now on, instead of fighting with trying to hold the clutch by hand.
H
Last year, I tried all of these methods and so far, none have worked...damn clutch has some kind of love affair with the crank and just wont let go. Yes, everyone says not to use an impact but if you have to, you have to. That's straight from Indydan who told me to use a 1" drive impact and then smack the puller hard with a brass hammer, but only as a last resort...I'm still afraid to do this. Maybe run it down to your local Les Schwab truck center and have them blow it off with the semi truck impact
I wonder if it would help to add a bit of antiseize to the snout of the crank when re-installing...
I've tried using something wedged through the primary but it seems to put way too much side pressure on the clutch which can't be good for the crank. The tool made for holding it in place is really cheap and has a nice, long handle.
I wonder if it would help to add a bit of antiseize to the snout of the crank when re-installing...
I've tried using something wedged through the primary but it seems to put way too much side pressure on the clutch which can't be good for the crank. The tool made for holding it in place is really cheap and has a nice, long handle.
tight clutch
If it's a 900 I would bring your sled to the dealer and let them pull it off. that way when the end of your crank snaps off you can try to blame them. These sleds had crank problems and polaris's fix was to torque the clutch bolt to 96ft. lbs. It's not much of a fix but it was enough to make most sleds last through the warranty period. If you do get it off inspect your crank end and your clutch for damage. Also you might need a new bolt. some bolts can only be torqued to 96 once.
If it's a 900 I would bring your sled to the dealer and let them pull it off. that way when the end of your crank snaps off you can try to blame them. These sleds had crank problems and polaris's fix was to torque the clutch bolt to 96ft. lbs. It's not much of a fix but it was enough to make most sleds last through the warranty period. If you do get it off inspect your crank end and your clutch for damage. Also you might need a new bolt. some bolts can only be torqued to 96 once.
R
I had to grease the holy hell out of my puller before the clutch finally popped.
The taper shouldn't have anything on it, even light oil is enough to cause issues. Clean the crank taper with scotch brite or emery cloth, take the clutch to the dealer and have them hit it with the proper reamer and reassemble.
Loose clutches (improper torque) will spin a little and then transfer a little metal and nearly weld themselves to the crank snout. Oily clutches will literally fall off, sometimes, but then revert to the welded scenario if not retorqued or cleaned and reassembled. This is something everyone shold check on their new sleds to prevent downstream fun as described in the other posts.
F
I got the bolt off without too much trouble. I am just afraid I have the wrong tool that I paid a crapload of money for. I can't take it to the dealer to get it removed because the sled is in a bunch of pieces. I'll try the oil.
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