'07 Summit 800r - 1st TimeTeam Tied Driven Clutch Install

So here's a quick log/how to, ect of how I installed the Team Tied driven clutch on my 2007 Summit Adrenaline 800r 151.

When I first opened up the box there didn't seem much to it, so I figured I would give it a run and install the new driven on my own. I have not yet fired the sled up or ridden but, for the most part the install went smooth. I did run into a few small issues, but I'll pose those questions at the bottom of the write up.

NOTE: I've never done any clutch work at all on a sled so please feel free to chime in with any input if it appears I did something wrong



New goodies from SLP/Team. Spoke to a tech at Team he recommended for a stock 800r @ 9000' plus to go with the Red & Black Spring, and a 66-60.36/66-62.33 helix.

(here are some more shots of the helix and clutch. )







first thing I did was pull the old driven off, not much to show here pull off your belt, remove your tool bag holder, and unbolt the one bolt holding the driven and pull it off, I also marked the distance from the rear sheeve to the frame to give me an idea of where to shim the new clutch.

Next thing I did was build a spring compressor. You can see it below. It cost about 3$, I welded a nut to a thick plate of metal, then welded a piece of all thread into the nut, I then welded a washer on top of another nut to create a "movable" platform That I can use to raise or lower the height of what I'm working on from the bottom, after that came the tricky part. I cut up a bunch of U bolts to make a 3 Prong press (leaving room for snap ring pillers). I then welded those prongs to a Nut, and drilled out the center of the nut so it would slide along the all thread. After that, it was just a matter of taking a 4th nut and using a wrench to tighten down the press to push on the spider gear (i think that's what it's called)

With my spring compressor completed, I put the clutch on, dropped in the spring compressed on the spider gear (??is this right), and then snapped the ring in the grove. I make sure to line up the spider gears X with the X on the sheave. (I don't know what difference it makes but it seemed like a smart idea haha), one snag I had was making sure the marker lined up with the shaft and the spider gear, you're best bet is to line this up the best you can before you start compressing, and as you get to where it needs to line up (or it won't go any further) carefully compress to see if everything lines up, if the spider won't slide EFFORTLESSLY decompress a few times, shift the spider gear again and try again. If you feel any resistance at all it's not lining up. Don't force it! It took maybe 3 times with eyeballing it before I started to compress.



After that I went ahead and installed the helix, (for the first of many times)..
I used a tiny bit of Blue Lock Tight, and torqued it.



I then went ahead and installed the new clutch back on the sled


..ah crap the belt is way to loose


This took me a bit to figure out, as I thought I had pulled the screws all the way out to allow the sheeve to move in, at this point the obvious escaped me. I pulled the clutch back off pulled the helix back out and continued to "dick" with it, eventually I realized without the belt on and the adjustment screws loosened I could get the sheeves to close all the way. (at this point.. nite time sorry no pics) I went ahead and reinstalled the driven clutch (in the dark with a flash light in my mouth hahah).. And the same thing Happend after spreading the sheaves to get the belt on.. Poof they wouldn't close.. This where I noticed the obvious.. the belt was wedging them apart and I had to carefully unstick the belt to get the sheeves to close and push the belt back up to the top of the sheeves.. I have a strange feeling this could have been accomplished in 5 seconds by just firing up the sled.. After getting the belt to sit as high as I could (I couldn't seem to float it*), I then pulled out the screw that spreads the sheeves, and tigthend down the adjustment bolts.


(note I also installed a little blue lock tight on bolt used to install the driven clutch)

here is a photo of the stock compared to the team tied clutch.



Ok so my questions, and feedback.

1st I have to say as somebody who doesn't know anything about clutches I think the install went pretty smooth, I do wish the instructions would have shown all the parts with labels, as according to the instructions I was missing some bolts (that I didn't need), and it kept referring to parts that hell if i knew what they were.. ha.

2nd. I made sure to line up the X on the spider gear (i believe that's what it's called with the X on the sheeve (photo for reference prior to lining up X on spider with X on sheeve.), but there was also an X on the front sheeve which I had no way of lining up with all the other X's.. It didn't rotate. Are they supposed to line up??


3rd. When reading this (http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1033&location_id=542), it talks about lining up the spring in the cups? I didn't really see any groves our delinting marks, so I just plopped the spring in torqued it down and dropped in the snap ring (is this bad?)

4th. I can't seem to float the belt, even if I pull the adjustment screws all the way out the at best it will go level with the sheeves. No matter how hard I try to pull the belt back any further it won't strech to allow the driven clutch to close the sheaves any further. The only thing I haven't tried is firing it up and spinning the clutch.

Thanks again for checking this out, please let me know if you have any questions for me, and I'd be grateful for any help with my questions or if somebody can point out any gross failures, or things I may have overlooked on my part.

Thanks again
-Brahm

..and here is another photo of my crude, scrap metal spring compressor..

quick update,

fired up the sled this morning clutch engages both in forward and reverse (moved it a couple feet on the trailer) nothing crazy.. but it made no weird noises ect, if we luck out we may have snow this week I'll have a good field test then.

Will do, I'm hoping to take it out and test it as is this week (if i'm lucky and the snow levels hold with what is being forecasted), if all goes well, I will make the adjustments to my primary afterwords and compare the difference. I'm just waiting to find out if the specs I got from team for the primary on a stock motor setup will be the same with the addition of a billet head, and some rieds, that I'm looking to pick up off a fellow snowest'r.

Thanks guys! I ordered up my primary parts. Mark & Jason at Team were very helpful they said in light of switching to a billet head I should go with the 415 ramps and and stick with the same spring listed above. Hopefully if I'll have it by Friday, and the head within the next couple weeks. With a bit of ride time in this week for a good comparison by the end of the weekend.

A thing to note about the helix that I didn't grasp at first is that there are 2 cuts (2 ways to put it in) a steep and a shallow. I honestly don't know which way I put it in I was just trying to line up the X's and didn't take note to the difference between the cuts. I'm going to see how it performance as is, and then at some point (probably when I do the primary) pull the helix out of the secondary and take note of which way I put, replace it is as is..then later down the road switch the helix and compare the difference.

Update: Ok, I got out for a ride tonight (all though short only 30-40mins, at an alt of 9000' to 11000'), first thing I noticed on the way up was a funky squeaky noise, and the clutch wasn't disengaging, in my effort to float the belt I had over tightened it. I backed off the adjustment screws 2 full turns each, and solved that issue and went on my way.

On the flat out to the ridge the sled pulls very nicely, other small things shifting from forward to reverse seemed much quicker and very smooth. Next I romped around for a 20 mins or so working my way up to the ridge line where I'd do my climb.

I lined up at the bottom of the hill and pinned it, carried the ski's and kept going. Unfortunately though, my first pull..well I had to let off the gas as when the headlight wasn't pointing at the ground I couldn't see where I was going, and it's just to early in the season to blindly charge up something, I went back down and did maybe 5-6 "hot laps" in a row, after slowly checking the terrain on each decent. Each time though I have to say I was very impressed sled held steady and pulled all the way threw the rpm range until I reached the top, it appeared to back shift correctly I hope, it would drop RPMS (from 8500 to 7500)and then quickly pull them back without loosing momentum or bogging. I was able to slow down during the climb get back in it, and easily lift the skis!


Now though I have to qualify one thing. While I did this test on the same hill/location as I was testing my sled prior to replacing the clutch, the snow conditions tonight were much more packed down. So my initial impression is YES I am very happy with the new Team Tied clutch, (and you can't beat the support they have given me on here and over the phone). It wouldn't be fair for me to say I am 100% on it until I get to trudge her under some serious load on that same climb wading threw powder, but I am very confident at this point that I will be happy with the results when that time comes.

Next on my list is to bring the sled into the garage check the belt for any wear (to see if my alignment is solid), and then I'm going to replace the primary springs and ramps with the new team setup I ordered this past week, once I get that in and do the same as this thread and hopefully take pictures of the process and give whatever feedback I can on both the install and performance of the complete package.

-Brahm