J
Looking at a shockwave on my turbo. Are they worth the money or should i stick with my straight cut one?
Shock wave helix
- Thread starter johnny be bad
- Start date
E
I think there worth it my self and i use the ability to tune with it often. Snow conditions change from day to day and im not always running the same boost level. So i think its worth it and will save you money in the long run. And as far as belt life goes with running a shock wave, i only went through one belt for a season. Im sure others will disagree and say go with a straight cut, id like to hear there thoughts on why.:beer;
I use one love it...nice product
My three turbos run them. but the straight cut 51 regrinds are pretty sweet as well. Shockwave will groove the buttons quicker though so probably more of a maintenance item??
RS
RS
Randy, Who does the regrinds for you??
T
They are good for small changes but you don,t want to tune rpm,s by adding/subtracting seconary angles...#1 cardinal sin in clutching. They also have very narrow ramps that can cut into the secondary buttons.
Good idea tho!
Good idea tho!
H
i've got a slightly used straight and slightly used dual angle shockwave for sale if anyone in saskatchewan wants to buy them. paid 300 each, how's 200 sound?
T
The shockwave used in conjunction with a set of supertips will give you all the clutch adjustment you could ask for. I like the ease of adjustment you get with an allen wrench and a twist of the collar. It works great if you need to turn up your boost and you want to keep it off the rev limiter.
I use a Shockwave on my RX-1M with heavy hitters up front (because I never got around to buying Super Tips).
I have the Shockwave turned all the way out at the parking lot and spin a solid 10,500 RPM on the trails in lower elevations. As I climb in elevation I'm losing power (no turbo) and I start to lose RPM. Turning in the adjustment ring increases my RPMS as I gain elevation.By the time I have gained 4,000 feet in elevation I have the adjustment ring turned all the way in and I'm still hitting 10,500 RPM while climbing.
Before the Shockwave, I was hitting 10,500 at the parking lot and 9,600 RPM climbing. The extra engine RPMs climbing really have helped the capabiliy of the sled a bunch.
I highly recommend the Shockwave.
I have the Shockwave turned all the way out at the parking lot and spin a solid 10,500 RPM on the trails in lower elevations. As I climb in elevation I'm losing power (no turbo) and I start to lose RPM. Turning in the adjustment ring increases my RPMS as I gain elevation.By the time I have gained 4,000 feet in elevation I have the adjustment ring turned all the way in and I'm still hitting 10,500 RPM while climbing.
Before the Shockwave, I was hitting 10,500 at the parking lot and 9,600 RPM climbing. The extra engine RPMs climbing really have helped the capabiliy of the sled a bunch.
I highly recommend the Shockwave.
Frostbite.. Be careful on depending on your shockwave that much! You are going to over heat the clutches! I would recommend that you lighten up the weights and know that you could over rev at the lower elev. (parking lot) and just be aware of it and not hammer the throttle, Until you get to the higher elev. The shockwave is a great FINE tuning instrument. You still have to have the primary set up correctly first!!!!
Cheers:beer;
Cheers:beer;
T
The absolute worst deadly sin in clutching is tuning for rpm,s using the secondary.
dc turbo is dead nutz on. You want to get rpm,s as close as possible by tuning the primary then play with secondary helix,s & springs to dial everything in. By adding/subtracting more then 300 rpm,s by using the secondary your destroying effieciency.
By adding rpm,s by lessening the angle is similar to keeping your vehicle's transmission in 2nd gear at 70 mph going down the hiway.
When lowering rpm,s by increasing the angle is like driving at 30 mph in overdrive. Your in a way too high gear & the belt is gonna slip like crazy.
dc turbo is dead nutz on. You want to get rpm,s as close as possible by tuning the primary then play with secondary helix,s & springs to dial everything in. By adding/subtracting more then 300 rpm,s by using the secondary your destroying effieciency.
By adding rpm,s by lessening the angle is similar to keeping your vehicle's transmission in 2nd gear at 70 mph going down the hiway.
When lowering rpm,s by increasing the angle is like driving at 30 mph in overdrive. Your in a way too high gear & the belt is gonna slip like crazy.
T
Hmmmm. This is an interesting topic. These motors make some pretty good power in a pretty broad rpm range, I wouldn't worry too much about fine tuning it right to a specific rpm (close counts). I do tend to use the helix angle to adjust rpms for boost level changes. The trick is to set it up around 50 degrees on the helix when your at your max boost and adjust the weights for the 10,500 range. The supertips will have to be setup to prevent over-rev on the bottom which may mean quite a bit of heel weight. Once this is setup, you can flatten the helix angle to adjust rpms when your boost is reduced. Flattening the helix angle shouldn't cause belt heat. That's my twist on it anyway based on what's been working well.
T
Decreasing the secondary angle can & will create heat. Your stopping the belt from upshifting in the secondary by holding it in a lower gear.
Again...do not use the secondary to make big rpm changes!!!!
Again...do not use the secondary to make big rpm changes!!!!
