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Hyfax Life

donbrown

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I have several sleds and all of them have kept their hyfax for at least 1000 miles and in most cases much longer.

I have a 2004 Edge with a 144 track partially clipped track with stock drivers.

The sled has all of the wheels still on it.

Tension and alignment checks out for the track.

Well the hyfax wears out between the idler wheels at around 300 miles. I went through several sets last year cause it wears very uneven.

Any ideas?
 

4GR8X

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Greetings donbrown,

300 miles on a set of hyfax, not good.

Any chance a suspension componet could be bent?
Any chance your front suspension shock has been set extra firm lowering your ski pressure but increasing the weight distribution to the track suspension?
Is your track ported?
With all your wheels in service it wouldn't seem likely you would need scratchers but a set of scratchers maybe a problem solver.
Verify your rails are centered in your track windows for maximum lubrication.
Typically we all adjust our track tension at home is a warm garage, verify your track tension is still satisfactory after your have traveled down a groomed trail as the colder ambient temperature will impact your track tension.
Have you considered fully clipping your track?
I'm running a 162, fully clipped, all idler wheels removed & scratchers and average 800 to 1K miles on a set of high fax.

Craig.
 

donbrown

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Greetings donbrown,

300 miles on a set of hyfax, not good.

Any chance a suspension componet could be bent?
Any chance your front suspension shock has been set extra firm lowering your ski pressure but increasing the weight distribution to the track suspension?
Is your track ported?
With all your wheels in service it wouldn't seem likely you would need scratchers but a set of scratchers maybe a problem solver.
Verify your rails are centered in your track windows for maximum lubrication.
Typically we all adjust our track tension at home is a warm garage, verify your track tension is still satisfactory after your have traveled down a groomed trail as the colder ambient temperature will impact your track tension.
Have you considered fully clipping your track?
I'm running a 162, fully clipped, all idler wheels removed & scratchers and average 800 to 1K miles on a set of high fax.

Craig.

Track is not ported and considering it getting fully clipped.

What is a good/great crimping tool?

Nothing appears to be bent.
 

4GR8X

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Track is not ported and considering it getting fully clipped.

What is a good/great crimping tool?

Nothing appears to be bent.

Greetings donbrown,

I don't have anything solid to offer in regards to a specific tool manufacture for the installation of track clips. I recall the crimping tool ran about $100, I opted to have my favorite sled shop crimp the clips on for me.

Have fun, Craig.
 

guidoxpress

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may be a stupid question..

but does the track have to be removed in order to clip the track..or can you get a tool up between the track and crimp them..??

i am also going to fully clip it and i have no reason to pull the track this summer/fall before winter!

Sorry to hyjack thread..
 

donbrown

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Greetings donbrown,

I don't have anything solid to offer in regards to a specific tool manufacture for the installation of track clips. I recall the crimping tool ran about $100, I opted to have my favorite sled shop crimp the clips on for me.

Have fun, Craig.

Closest shop is 200 miles away.
 

4GR8X

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Closest shop is 200 miles away.

Greetings donbrown,

200 miles...humm cheaper & more convenient to purchase the track clip tool.

Option -

I cracked open my "Shade Tree Powersports" catalog they show a track clip installation tool kit for $82.99, part #725-002. I've not used this tool so I have no first hand knowledge regarding how well it works.

www.shadetreepowerstports.com or 1.888.742.3387

In the Fall/Winter 2009 edition the crimping tool is on page # 73.

Maybe someone will chime in with a crimping tools they have first hand knowledged of, that works well.

Have fun, Craig.
 

4GR8X

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may be a stupid question..

but does the track have to be removed in order to clip the track..or can you get a tool up between the track and crimp them..??

i am also going to fully clip it and i have no reason to pull the track this summer/fall before winter!

Sorry to hyjack thread..

Greetings guidoxpress,

I don't believe you would have to remove your track.

Offered for your consideration -

Elevate the tail of your sled until your track is not touching the ground, relax your track tension this will allow you to rotate your track with ease to assist you with the installion of your clips. Install your clips while working between your big wheel kit and your top suspension idler wheel.

Have fun, Craig.
 

donbrown

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Greetings guidoxpress,

I don't believe you would have to remove your track.

Offered for your consideration -

Elevate the tail of your sled until your track is not touching the ground, relax your track tension this will allow you to rotate your track with ease to assist you with the installion of your clips. Install your clips while working between your big wheel kit and your top suspension idler wheel.

Have fun, Craig.

Great recommendation !!!
 

94fordguy

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I'd say use scratchers more. I have an '04 Edge 159, front wheels removed. I go over 2,000 miles on hyfax.....Scratchers down except when in new snow.....

Same here, my 151 has the same hifax since I bought it 2200 miles ago and it looks just as good as it did then. Scratchers down in anything less than 4" of new snow and you're golden:beer;:D

Over 3,000 miles on the machine and I am pretty confident that it is actually the original set.
 

donbrown

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I'll give you all a little tip from my Ice racing days, We would run 50 -65 miles on solid ice with out hyfax meltdown for the whole season by virtue of 2 things.

1. Studs, not applicable on the mtn sled but performed the same function besides traction as your scratchers do.

2. This is what can help you - Roll your sled on it's side. Take a 3/16" drill bit and wrap a piece of taper around it for a depth gauge (after you figure out how deep) then use the drill and dimple the hyfax like a golf ball say 3 holes inside each window. I normally go just a little shallower than the "worn out" indicator line on the side of the hyfax.

What this does is collect snow and ice that melts and keeps the track and hyfax lubricated while you ride. Every time you hit a patch of loose snow more gets packed into the holes and as things warm up agian it melts out and gives lubrication.

DON'T DO THIS ON HYPERFAX the insert will fall out.
 

donbrown

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I'll give you all a little tip from my Ice racing days, We would run 50 -65 miles on solid ice with out hyfax meltdown for the whole season by virtue of 2 things.

1. Studs, not applicable on the mtn sled but performed the same function besides traction as your scratchers do.

2. This is what can help you - Roll your sled on it's side. Take a 3/16" drill bit and wrap a piece of taper around it for a depth gauge (after you figure out how deep) then use the drill and dimple the hyfax like a golf ball say 3 holes inside each window. I normally go just a little shallower than the "worn out" indicator line on the side of the hyfax.

What this does is collect snow and ice that melts and keeps the track and hyfax lubricated while you ride. Every time you hit a patch of loose snow more gets packed into the holes and as things warm up agian it melts out and gives lubrication.

DON'T DO THIS ON HYPERFAX the insert will fall out.

Got any pics?
 

Snorider

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with your stock drivers I would go with the buttons.

I have to neighbors that are running the stock drivers and decided to put hyperfax on, needing fully clipped or those buttons for hyperfax they went with the buttons. they haven't had any problems with them and have worked great.

if you plan on staying with those drivers i would opt for the buttons.
 

donbrown

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I'll give you all a little tip from my Ice racing days, We would run 50 -65 miles on solid ice with out hyfax meltdown for the whole season by virtue of 2 things.

1. Studs, not applicable on the mtn sled but performed the same function besides traction as your scratchers do.

2. This is what can help you - Roll your sled on it's side. Take a 3/16" drill bit and wrap a piece of taper around it for a depth gauge (after you figure out how deep) then use the drill and dimple the hyfax like a golf ball say 3 holes inside each window. I normally go just a little shallower than the "worn out" indicator line on the side of the hyfax.

What this does is collect snow and ice that melts and keeps the track and hyfax lubricated while you ride. Every time you hit a patch of loose snow more gets packed into the holes and as things warm up agian it melts out and gives lubrication.

DON'T DO THIS ON HYPERFAX the insert will fall out.

This is a smart way to handle the heat and preserve the hyfax. Still like to see pictures.
 
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