• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Ovs wheelie control

F

frock

Well-known member
Sep 13, 2005
477
124
43
British Columbia, Canada
If this works it is a very reasonable option. As Pure Logic has said, much cheaper than your other options to correct this. You don't need a turbo to have the wheelie problem either. I have a 900 engine tech in an 06 M7 chassis with a 2.5 inch 162 track under it and it wheelies like crazy in the steeps.

Pure logic I have the Holz relocation bracket in the rear suspension, but the rest is stock. Will this affect your coupler system at all?
 

bart0678

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 2, 2007
332
55
28
I am very interested in your product here i would just like to see some installed pictures on 09 rails if possible.
i think thats what it will take to make me pull the trigger.
thanks
adam
 
S

SnowDevil

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
390
48
28
Portland
Pictures of the install, and yes with the turbo sleds you need to change things around a bunch to keep the front end down when climbing which you end up giving up your trail ride all together so this is a inexpensive fix to the problem.
 
Last edited:
G
Nov 28, 2007
177
12
18
47
St. Maries, Id.
I ran one on my 09' M8pg and yes it didn't wheelie as much but it didn't stay at the setting I put it on. Only ran it on the third setting. I also didn't feel it climbed as well like I actually lost track speed since I had more track in the snow than without the stop. I'm gonna pull it off and maybe try it again in some spring snow and not in the powder.
 
S

SnowDevil

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
390
48
28
Portland
Sounds like you didnt tighten the bolts with a little locktite. Also if you at the 3rd setting there are 2 others to try. I have 200+ miles on mine and it sure helps in the chutes! dont notice a difference on the trail.
 
H

hatchers

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,688
1,428
113
North Utah
www.snowestonline.com
I have no questions really, only suggestions:

1-one side plate is twice as thick as the other (someone on the CNC machine is smoking the devils lettace;)), so the bolts are not long enough on one side to use locking nuts
2-the outside taper on each plate will not allow the bolt head to turn when the bolt head sets close to the plate, so I had to grind a bunch of material to make it work, hoping to god I still have enough material to keep it together…the outside of each plate looks cool with the taper, but its not functional. Also, send some washers with this kit as hex head bolts tend to chew up alum material when you tighten the bolts
3-the taper on the inside of the large plates are also incorrect as you don’t have enough flat area for a locking nut, so I used some red thread locker and hope for the best.

Now it seems I really need to move my rear lower arm back another 1”….everyone told me to do it, but I was hoping I could get around it….the 2008 rails wont allow you to move this coupler any more forward.


couple.jpg


notice the top two bolts, i had to grind the taper channel to allow room for the bolt heads to rotate
couple2.jpg


this is the side with the much thicker plate, bolts not long enough to use locking nuts, so i used a generous amount of thread locker.....and you cant get nuts on the top two bolts
couple3.jpg


couple4.jpg
 
S

SnowDevil

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
390
48
28
Portland
Hatch,, you dont need to move the suspension it looks to be in the correct spot. You should have around a 1" gap and if you try to compress the rear suspension it will NEVER touch the coupler. The coupler will only touch the suspension under acceleration, thats the beauty of it.

I would call travis before moving anything.

Damn that looks like my garage minus the kids toy!
 
Last edited:
Premium Features