Snow hawk general info

No apologies needed.

If you compare your 600HO to your friends 800HO with the tanks removed you will notice the 600 has two in the center of the tunnel area the 800's heat exchangers are three across contacting each frame rail.

The wearing I am aware of occurs on the outside edges near the frame rails and should not effect your machine.

The only other fit issue seems to be the body work being a little tight.

Your clutching question is going to be tough to answer since most Hawkers here on Snowest seem to be high altitude deep snow riders.

Welcome to our forum.

Tony

I have been running prok pods for 5 years now and havent had any freeze problems as long as you run a pre filter over the top of them

3000 ft is pretty close to what we run up here, If you go Tra3 i can get you close on ramps and pin weight, i'm running a tra also.

Been wanting to reply to this for 3 days now but just can't find the time for it or a good enough connection...

I think this post is a great because it underlines quite a few flaws of the machine that can be corrected / solved.

I think that snap sound you hear might me the front of your rails hitting the limiter strap cross bar. (weird suspension design AGAIN) Mine does that. It COULD also be your Torque Limiter even thoug I'd describe the sound of it like this : "Trrrrraaaat". "Traaaarrrraraarrrrrrrarrrarrrrarraaaat" is the sound the TLS makes when it lets go like crazy (like mine did the first season everytime i'd go up a hill and throttle more than 3/4 !) If you keep it for another season, make sure you keep it clean...

Primary Clutching : Dump that stock salad bowl and get a TRA and start with the '05 MXZ 600 setup (go on the ski-doo parts diagram, they mention everything in there) OR start off with this : 415 ramps, purple/purple spring(160-320), clicker 3 and adjust pin weight to get to your target RPM which is 7900 I think for the 600HO motor. It should be a good thing to start off with for 3000' in the wet Quebec snow ! I remember skiing le Valinouet when I was veeeeery young (got Family in Chicoutimi that's why !) but can't remember if snow is as wet & heavy as on the shore of the St-Laurent or if it's dryer up there...

Secondary Clutching : I'd suggest you should not buy a Team because it will be a guess on the helix and spring you'll put there anyway !!!. I'd suggest you should get the proper Helix and spring for your stock secondary to make it work right, you'll save a few hundreds by doing so (and maybe afford a chain drive). If you can reach your target RPM but can't keep it up there, basically you want quicker backshift as you said and that could be obtained with a stiffer spring (which would be the green one I think). I have a purple secondary spring in mine (stiffest ski-doo makes for secondary) and it did quite a better job over the stock green one I had. Helix : can you tell me which one you have ? I think all 600s do have a 50/44 helix. I think it's a bit steep for mountains and you might want to go 50/40 if you want good performance in the mountains. Straight 44 if your snow is wet and heavy (a shallower helix won't transfer as much load to the primary and thus you won't loose as much rpm). 50/40 seemed to be a very good helix for me when I had my 144 track. Awesome acceleration, good backshift...

Gearing : Are you 28-56, 30-56 or 32-56 ? Anything else than 28-56 is more trail oriented and WILL affect your backshift in the deep and may not work as
well in the mountain. 530 Chain drive IS the solution here anyway to a lot of problems... First you get rid of the TLS and all the problem and maintenance it comes with. You get fairly cheap gearing change compared to belt drive (which is almost unaffordable due to the fact that you need a longer or shorter belt, different cog sprockets...). I have a 13 and a 14 top sprocket, planning on have one more top and one more bottom just to do some testing. Theorically a smaller gearing (13-28 versus 14-28 for example) should recover RPM quicker and will help clutching work in wider range (belt to go up higher in the primary and go lower in the secondary type of thing...).

Suspension : Track tightening is also something that will rub HP and "backshift" big time ! I'd let Sledr2 answer for himself but as far as I know
his swignarm retrofit are designed to get rid of track tensionning and also to get a better shock leverage ratio with the stock shocks.

Exhaust : you can put the Jaws without the pods, that's no problem especially since you're only riding 3000' high. Plenty of air to get inside. Put the filterskins on and you shouldn't have any problem ! Plus I
remember the winters in Chicoutimi/Jonquière area to be quite cooler than what we see here out west, wich means denser air so more air here again !
You'll probably go DOWN on the jetting by the way... TKSWILD (If I remember right) on this forum said there was more power to be found with the Mattech Exhaust (and I'd say there is also 20 something more pound to be found with it!!!) By the way most people knows that but the stock 600 pipe was factory ordered "de-tuned" from ADBoivin to Jaws... This was to help reduce reliability issues apparently... They would have been better to come up with a better cooling system earlier I think...

If there's anything else, send me a PM, Je parle françâ, ça va me faire plaisir de t'aider ! Je suis de la Beauce (on boit plus que vous autres le monde du Lac je suis sûr!) Tout le monde se soule en Beauce parce qu'il y a rien d'autre à faire sti... raison exacte pourquoi je suis rendu ici dans l'ouest... Hahahahaha !

Bonne chance man !

Thierry

get ready

Good day. my .02 you can use a tra 2 or 3 Lite or regular clutch. We are using the tra 2 right now, but did have a 3 earlier. Most guys seem to be switching to a cat roller secondary with a new jackshaft from either Hawkdoggen or from extrememachine, use the chrome moly shaft not aluminum ones. The cog belt does need to be very tight to keep from slipping. the expert suspension can be improved greatly with a set of repositiong brackets that I can get you thanks to scram at 150.00. Again extreme machine can make some bad *** suspensing parts too. If you ride trails much a good set of ice scratchers will solve any overheating problems.

I have a 12 G tank body don't fit put a rubber matt in between tank and coolers to eliminate any rubbing. i also like to reposition the fuel pickup line to the top portion of the tank behind the choke lever.

I have modified 3 airboxes with filter screen and seem to work very well. Jetting is very important. Depending on temp I would say 330-350 for o-30 degrees F. We were running 250 mains at 10k feet 25 degrees F.

FYI the 600 ho should run 8100-8200
Later les

Another pretty long reply...

2006sigouin said:

... I have disasemble my hawk today and realized that my engine was rubbing on the right side of the frame. ...

Click to expand...

I had the same problem... I ended up grinding 2mm off the tab that was rubbing on the mag side of the frame... It's very tight there. I don't know how tight it is on a 600 but on mine there was less than 1 mm and under the load motor was rubbing against the frame...

That and a broken bolt (one of the 4 M10s) IN the base of the engine made me think that an "Engine mount torque limiter" was a must. What that does is it basically limits the engine from twisting when both clutches want to pull each other like a bastadge when under big loads. I sell a kit with a vibration dampening bushing to get rid of some of the vibrations it creates. Works very good. DOn't know if it fits the 600HO motor base though. I'd need to know what the center to center hole measurment is to be able to tell you.

TRAs : Any TRA would do the job way better than the salad bowl you have. TRA2s don't share the same ramp numbers as TRA3 or 4 though. Get whatever you can find.

Jackshaft : get one from Sledr2 (splined or keywayed he makes both style out of quality steel (Heat treated 4340 I think)), stock A-C or Bombi won't fit and ADBoivin will be twice if not three times more expensive than sledr2's. Secondary is really up to you, i'd keep the stock and find the good setup for it.

12Gal gas tank : I had LOT'SA trouble and so does WhistlerHawk & his cousin. Not too much with the rubbing on the rad though (we have the 3 piece rad on 800s, you have a 2 piece rad on yours). I make sure the tank sits on the rubber and it works fine. Not a bad idea though to make a bracket or something to hold the back of the tank ! THE MAJOR Problem you may have is the following : http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-72928.html

I sell a retrofit kit to cure that. Tested one complete season, worked flawlessly. What I still didn't do is the foam in the tank. Will probably do it next season.

If you want your Hawk to run perfect you need to tear that whole suspension and go to the drawing board man !!! Too many problems to fix on the stocker ! Hahahahah ! :beer;:beer;:beer;