XP Turbo Kit Prices

For those that haven't been keeping current on the original post. I listed the prices here to make it a bit easier.

I'm working on some of the priceing today and will hopefully have a close estamite by the end of this week. I will post the prices along with the pictures if the coater comes through for me this week. I think I will price the kits out a few ways to make it easier for those interested. Along with the kits, the instructions will come with a purchase order number that I will file along with name, date, price paid and all the part numbers for all components used in that particular kit. That way if there is any questions or changes with the kits I will have the information available to me to know what has been used if a customer need support. You never know what suppliers will stop makeing whatever and then I would have to change components. I like to be informed to be able to help.

The price on the kits I think I will do:

BASIC KIT: Everything needed to have a turbo minus the EGT or AFR gauge and clutching. You can buy later or try your own clutching. This would be less of a hit on the wallet. $4700 US. Shipping and 6% sales tax not included.

STANDARD KIT: Would include clutching, but would not include the EGT or AFR gauge. This is what I would think most would be interested in. $4700 + $300 US. Shipping and 6% sales tax not included.


FULL TILT KIT: Would be complete with everything with you choice of either EGT or AFR. $4700 + $300 + $350 = $5350 US. Shipping and 6% sales tax not included.

Along with all these will still be options as far as any powder coating, chroming, anodizing and polishing along with a price for installation.

These are just some things I have thought about to make it easy for everyone involved. Any other suggestions would be great. The website deal is still in the works, but all that cost money and I'm trying to keep the price in check.

Dave Halverson

Yes. I will have to figure out an install price later. I need to either tear mine all the way down or get my buddies 09 started for install instructions and pictures. At that time I can get a better idea of time and price for install.

Dave

BlackSummit said:

Will you instal if we bring a sled to you?

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Ralph, the $300 is the option for complete clutching and the $350 would be for AFR or EGT gauges.

Dave

PJtheMunchkin said:

Dave, what is the $300 and $350 charge? Glad to see you are making progress.

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I have been thinking about the kit priceing all night and I think I will let it be for a few day and see what kind of response I get from each specific kit. I feel I might have to offer 1 or maybe 2 kits. The Shockwave was thought of but we just haven't done any testing with it. It's on our 09, just have to get the turbo done on that sled. I'm sure that is what most will end up useing anyway. Too many irons in the fire. My biggest concern is the clutching. I might have to tweek the kits and get some clutching in there.


Will it work on you 860?? How many times have I been asked that. You've been building a lot of 860's John. I guess it depends on your definition of "work" and I know you know the answer.


Dave

BIG JOHN said:

IMHO..

Have 1 kit...$4995 includes AFR/BOOST gauges (optional EGT)...then sell "customers sled specific" clutching as an option...thought about the Shock Wave adjustable helix?? would make tuning in the field a snap!!...knowwhatImean:beer;

BTW- will this work on my 860???-BJ

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The extra displacement should be good, but I would have to guess that the 860 in it's true form would not work well as a turboed engine----unless.

Here is how I see it. The engine in stock form makes very good power, so I feel the porting is aggressive out of the box. Turbo and stock cylinders work good. Now big bore it and port it. How much porting is done to the 860 that actually makes more power? I do not know. Maybe the 860s make the power off the extra displacement, head, pipe and other components. I feel the turbo 860 cylinders would have to be specifc to the turbo and I can not say if the gains would be worth it. I do not port cylinders. I would have to discuss the options with those who do to find out the specific detail. John if you want one to try and be a test mule call me and we can discuss the issues.

Dave Halverson
605-791-2291

Ok, after a lengthy drug induced conversation on my part (doctor's prescription ) with Big John it looks like the turbo 860 will be an option . For those interested in this package you would need to talk to Big John about the turbo specific cylinders and the turbo through me. The turbo kit is the same, so if you buy a turbo and then go big bore nothing on the turbo would have to be changed. Maybe the boost gauge. I'm sending out 15 psi boost gauges and for those going to the big bore you might want to turn it up beyond 15 psi . That would be up to you and it is not nessesary for the big bore.

Just another option to work over some of them other pesky turbo sleds .

Now I have to go get some pills and a beer.

Dave

OT, on either kit the turbo will be the same. A Garrett GT2871.

Dave

Original Tetonice said:

What size turbo comes with the kit ?

OT

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I was going to use the AEM AFR gauge. I currently run EGT's myself. The boost and fuel pressure are "made" by Auto Meter and they mount in the counsle below the speedo in the little triangle shape spots, one on the right and one on the left. White face, liquid filled gauges with black numbers with a red needle. Very clean and you can see them sitting or standing. There will be an option for larger (2" plus) gauges and a pod that mounts on top of the speedo cluster, but this is not as clean looking IMO.

Dave

Original Tetonice said:

Thanks for the clarify Dave.....Is the boost gauge an "Auto Meter" brand ? And is the AFR gauge a "Innovate" brand ? Does the kit include a gauge pod ?

OT

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I had a setback on my unique oiling system this week and I am redesigning that and the mounting bracket for the turbo to be more user friendly. Easier to mass produce too. I have a guy sending me a complete vent kit and we will be working on a dedicated fresh air mesh vent (for that steath look, no snorkle) with a tube/hose to the intake of the turbo. Too much heat in such a small package. I was going to leave vents to the customer and I still am, but the one for the turbo will be part of the kit. If the first run of kits go out without this vent I will send it later at no extra cost. See what I said about refining this package and then releasing pictures of the final product. I want people to see what they are buying not what I'm prototyping. The oiling system will keep getting R&D on my part and when I feel it is good it will be released for the following season. It will be an easy change for those interested with the 1st generation kits. All the kits for this season will be the same though. I'm not going to change things mid season. I have my turbo specific reeds getting built and hopefully done soon. I am going to ship my final designed charge tube off and get a quote on having them all CNC mandrel bent for a more consitant, quality fit. They are mandrel bent now and welded together and bead rolled ends. You can't see the welds, but it might be more cost effective to have them built vs me cut and weld and have the ends bead rolled. They can do it all in minutes and it takes me more time and I have aluminum tube left over as waste. I have relocated the power jets in the carbs so the body or head of the power jet is mounted on the top cap of the carb for easy adjustment. More clamping surface on the carb flange. I feel with the nozzle for the power jet located approxately an 1/8'' away from the slide it gives more precise and consistant fuel delivery when the power jet is in operation. The down side is I might have to do an exchange program on the cap and carb bell/air horn/front cover plate for those who are leary about the work to get them in the correct location. Not rocket sience, but patience is key. After numerous vendors for silicone couplers I found some I am confident with. I have always used 4 ply couplers, but these are a thicker 4 ply. Your choice of black, blue and red. Along with better clamps and silicone couplers ther will also be a carb cross plate to be able to retain the carbs to the charge box for added security and for higher boost. Seems like anything over 10psi for any lenth of time and the carbs blow off. We fixed this issue back on our turbo Rev project and feel it is a no brainer. The kits will have constant tension stainless, slip fit, bead clamps for the silicone couplers. Yes, the old standard worm drive hose clamp work good but, I feel more confident with these for a kit I'm selling. T-bolt clamps are fine, I just don't like the cosmetic look of them. I still run the old worm drive clamps on my turbo Cat, but for me I just give them a twist from time to time. This is just a run down on some of the stuff I'm still tweeking and thought it would share this information for those that are interested. In my sig line you will see a website. It is still under construction and will be the last thing done. After the final product is completed I will finish the website. The release dates are still on for June but, I will not ship until they are perfect in my eyes.

Dave Halverson

We will, but I'm not sure when. We will continue our two strokes until the money allows us to develop a reliable and quality kit for the 1200. Then we will build both two and four stroke kits.

Dave

SnowSnob said:

Are you coming out with a kit for the 1200?

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I have mine in the shop now all apart redesigning the charge tube for a shorter design and you will actually be able to see the engine and change spark plugs. We shortened the original charge tube by about 8'' with the new design. I finalized the turbo mounting bracket today after various designs that all worked, but were just over engineered. My partner is working on his idea of an oil tank he wants to run, so we will test that some more, but I'm confident with my oil tank design and that is how the kits will be released for now until we see a benefit from a different design. These are not like most other oil tanks that are big and bulky. Just different. If further testing goes good we will eliminate the oil tank for the Garrett turbo. That will be released for next season and be a very easy change for those who buy the Gen 1 kits.

Hp has not been certified on a dyno, just a rough guestamation/calculation on the race gas kits. At 10psi you should be makeing about 250hp. The consumer boost gauge that comes with the kit will go up to 15psi. If you want to run more we can change the gauge for the same cost. We are suggesting running between 10psi and 12psi. We have not done any pump gas testing on the XP only our 600HO big bored turbo. The XP on pump should make close to 190hp I would guess. We have been focusing on the race setup because we felt that is what most would want, but alot of people do want pump turbos too. The boost is controlable with a manual boost controller. No fancy electric one on this kit. You will be able to run about 7psi for pump and turn it up and get 15psi if you want. Granted your clutching will need some changes if you make that big of a change, but I think most will be very happy @ around 10 psi. We do not use Dial-A-Jets. We run power jets like most other turbo kits with ours being mounted in a unique place for easy adjustment and control. My personal sled has the stealth look to it with powdercoated flat black charge box and charge tube with red silicone couplers. You have a choice of red, blue or black couplers too. We would have to do any chrome or anodizing out of house and would need lead time for that and the price would have to be figured for that additionally as well as powdercoating and polishing. The polishing I would do myself, eventhough it is messy. Powdercoating is done locally within about 3-4 days. Eventhough all aluminum fittings are bead rolled the problem with polishing and chrome is the become very slippery and could blow a coupler off. You only see about 8'' of the charge tube, so I wouldn't get to worried about trickin' that out. My theory with the black chage tube and charge box is the black will draw the heat to the surface and help dissapate any heat generated. The BOV will be confined as well as the fuel pump and the regulator, so all those hoses are out of sight. This does make it difficult to diagnose any leaks if they happen, but I just like it clean and simple. All the kits come standard with glycerin filled boost and fuel pressure gauges. The extra gauge would be either EGT or AFR which ever you choose. The price for the basic kit is $4700 and an extra $350 for the EGT/AFR gauge ($5050) and the clutch kit will be an extra $300 for primary and Ski-Doo secondary. I will be changeing my personal sled over to the Shockwave reverse angle secondary, but at this time I have no testing done with that secondary mod. You might want to contact Big John here on the forums for the Shockwave and try his recomendations as a starting point. I know a lot of people are already useing the Shockwave anyway, so I need to test with it too. Until I personally test that setup, I can't recommend a starting point. The kits should be ready hopefully sometime in June. I have had a set back with some final redesigning and now I have to get the charge tube off to have it CNC mandrel bent for consistancy and precision from kit to kit. If a person couldn't wait for those I would sell the kit with an all welded charge tube. The welds are not visable when installed. I just want a CNC bent tube for production repeatability---if it is cost effective. I hope I answered most of your questions and gave some updates. If you have any more questions feel free to call or ask.

Thank you for the intrest.

Dave Halverson

bigredtruckguy06 said:

how much horse on pump fuel vs race is the boost agustable so you can run wich ever you want or both a 50-50 mix which i heard was the thing to do and how much for a complete kit both gauges clutching dial-a-jet and all for everything you would need plus whitch do you recomend powdercoat or chrom?? I WANA BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO GET YOU KIT ON MY 2009 XP 800R LET ME KNOW WHEN YOUR READY TO ROLL WITH IT AND ILL BRING MY SLED TO YOU IM VERY VERY SERIOUS MY CELL IS 406-217-3922 MY NAME IS DAVID SINCLAIR LOOK FORWORD TO WORKING WITH YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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