The engine mount bolt closest to the primary clutch on my Dragon was almost an inch backed out when I looked at it last weekend. Almost lost it but got it good and snug again. Sled only has 600 miles. Just word to the wise :beer;
Dragon Owners check your engine mounts
- Thread starter CO 2.0
- Start date
C
Some of these have been known to break letting the front mount loose. Not something you want to have happen and cost you a belt.
If you are one of the unlucky ones and it does break off the piece needs to be extracted from the hole and replaced with a new bolt. Ask around for someone that has replaced a set of front mounts in a 900 cause, guess what, the OEM front mount bolt with washer attached is a perfect replacement. Had to do just that last week lacking the "proper" replacement part.
If you are one of the unlucky ones and it does break off the piece needs to be extracted from the hole and replaced with a new bolt. Ask around for someone that has replaced a set of front mounts in a 900 cause, guess what, the OEM front mount bolt with washer attached is a perfect replacement. Had to do just that last week lacking the "proper" replacement part.
T
Too bad you did not read this.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1278980
Could have saved you some trouble.
N
I have a set of front engine mounts from my 900 if you want them. pm me if interested
yeah never saw that thread, thanks for the heads up. :beer;
G
motor mount 09 dragon
mines in the shop now the bolt broke grade 8 we are putting grade 9's in
mine broke low on the bolt
mines in the shop now the bolt broke grade 8 we are putting grade 9's in
mine broke low on the bolt
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What is the size and length you are putting in? Got a part #?
I tried part # 90201A327 but Fastenal doesn't show even a cross reference #...
I tried part # 90201A327 but Fastenal doesn't show even a cross reference #...
All grade 8's are not created equal... there are many factors that make a good bolt... grade 8 referes to its tensile strength..
Cut treads are weaker than rolled threads, how far up it is threaded makes a difference too.
I'm a believer in the ARP bolts... they have very tight quality standards and make stronger bolts, specifically for the motorsports industry.
The L-9 bolts are good too but IMO... prefer the ARP's.
CO2... I posted the dimensions of that bolt in the other post with a pic...
Here ya go.
Cut treads are weaker than rolled threads, how far up it is threaded makes a difference too.
I'm a believer in the ARP bolts... they have very tight quality standards and make stronger bolts, specifically for the motorsports industry.
The L-9 bolts are good too but IMO... prefer the ARP's.
CO2... I posted the dimensions of that bolt in the other post with a pic...
Here ya go.
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Engine Mount Bolt, Left Front
CO 2.0:
Much thanks for the heads up on that bolt. Went out and took a peek at mine and all I saw was a hole. Bolt took a flyer. Pulled the radius rod boot and disconntected the left rod. Shot some WD 40 down the hole to let it soak, gripped the bottom of the broken bolt with some needle nose grips and was able to unscrew it. It broke down low; only had a 1/2 in. nub to extract. Going to go look for a replacement bolt(and it sure as hell won't be a Polaris bolt). Will take the advice of Mountainhorse and look for the ARP bolts.
Thanks again guys, for the info/recommendations.
z
CO 2.0:
Much thanks for the heads up on that bolt. Went out and took a peek at mine and all I saw was a hole. Bolt took a flyer. Pulled the radius rod boot and disconntected the left rod. Shot some WD 40 down the hole to let it soak, gripped the bottom of the broken bolt with some needle nose grips and was able to unscrew it. It broke down low; only had a 1/2 in. nub to extract. Going to go look for a replacement bolt(and it sure as hell won't be a Polaris bolt). Will take the advice of Mountainhorse and look for the ARP bolts.
Thanks again guys, for the info/recommendations.
z
The link in turbodiesels post above has the part numbers for the ARP bolts in it.
All grade 8's are not created equal... there are many factors that make a good bolt... grade 8 referes to its tensile strength..
Cut treads are weaker than rolled threads, how far up it is threaded makes a difference too.
I'm a believer in the ARP bolts... they have very tight quality standards and make stronger bolts, specifically for the motorsports industry.
The L-9 bolts are good too but IMO... prefer the ARP's.
CO2... I posted the dimensions of that bolt in the other post with a pic...
Here ya go.
Thanks. I think I'm going with ARP. They do make top quality hardware. Actually have a set of their head bolts in my 400whp audi pushing 32psi. :beer;
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