I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Ran it for 3300+ trouble-free miles. Here’s some tips that may be useful.
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.
2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane (even @ low elevation), easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!
3) TRACTION for FLATLANDERS: 96 or More studs, traction is where it’s at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you’re coupled to the ground.
almost FREE MODS
PRIMARY CLUTCH:
1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.
2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00)
For low elevation: I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's
3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing.
SLP & INDY Dan Here on SnoWest and others offer this service.
SECONDARY
1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of EACH & EVERY season (approx $30.00)
2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each
BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY
1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores) to get it perfect.
2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.
3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.
4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the 3211080 (standard edge belt)
ENGINE LIMITERS
1) Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $80.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS
2) Install a SLP PUSH ARM (PART # 23-50, $47.95) on the MAG side
EXHAUST VALVES
1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit.
2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.
CHAIN CASE
1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.
2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.
3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they’re PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1” I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030”, .060” These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.
OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:
1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel)
2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.
3) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred
DEBATEABLE for FLATLANDERS, PREFERRED by MOUNTAIN GUYS
SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don’t do this mod.
WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.
1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it’s best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!
2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they’ll slow you down and for those of you who think it’s “cool” remember that next time you come across a “trail closed” sign.
3) Roller Secondary. The “old style” button secondary is faster on top end.
4) Boost bottles
5) 8" rear wheels
6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels
Hope this helps
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.
2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane (even @ low elevation), easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!
3) TRACTION for FLATLANDERS: 96 or More studs, traction is where it’s at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you’re coupled to the ground.
almost FREE MODS
PRIMARY CLUTCH:
1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.
2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00)
For low elevation: I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's
3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing.
SLP & INDY Dan Here on SnoWest and others offer this service.
SECONDARY
1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of EACH & EVERY season (approx $30.00)
2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each
BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY
1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores) to get it perfect.
2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.
3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.
4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the 3211080 (standard edge belt)
ENGINE LIMITERS
1) Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $80.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS
2) Install a SLP PUSH ARM (PART # 23-50, $47.95) on the MAG side
EXHAUST VALVES
1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit.
2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.
CHAIN CASE
1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.
2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.
3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they’re PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1” I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030”, .060” These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.
OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:
1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel)
2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.
3) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred
DEBATEABLE for FLATLANDERS, PREFERRED by MOUNTAIN GUYS
SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don’t do this mod.
WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.
1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it’s best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!
2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they’ll slow you down and for those of you who think it’s “cool” remember that next time you come across a “trail closed” sign.
3) Roller Secondary. The “old style” button secondary is faster on top end.
4) Boost bottles
5) 8" rear wheels
6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels
Hope this helps
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